2001 V70XC working with exhaust

**Xheart** · 12-28-2012, 07:36 PM

I will cut-off the head of the other bolt/stud first. It takes an hour with the rotary tool and a minor neck pain.

I tried the punch with a 1lb hammer to asses the required force, it did not move, but the entire exhaust assembly started to shake a bit. Worried of damaging a seal upstream, and stopped.

Any thoughts? Would heating the flange with propane torch help it move out?

Bolt threads are totally rusted and worn. I will start the morning with removing the head of the other bolt first.

I have the calm and patience for this complicated projects of Final Drive oil leak fix, just need little nudge from you.

Many thanks.

**dirtyd851** · 12-29-2012, 12:10 AM

You can use a propane torch to try and heat up the flange...you want to try and get as much heat into the flange without heating up the bolts as much. You're trying to get the steel flange to heat up and expand. Obviously there will be heat transfer to the bolts but just thought I'd mention it so you don't aim for the bolts is all. It is probably hard to tap on the bolts with the exhaust being primarily rubber mounted. If you don't have a jiffy bar you may be able to tap a flat head screwdriver between the flanges and either tap it in like a wedge or twist the screwdriver head. If the screwdriver has a square shaft you can put an adjustable wrench on the shaft and turn it or try turning the screwdriver handle with a channel locks or similiar.

**Xheart** · 12-30-2012, 11:41 AM

1 1/2 inch cut off disk is all that would fit the space.
For the second one, I am working from the nut side. A small portion of the shank was cut off. Now slowly chipping away at the nut.
Exterior is all rusted, but inside is hard and shiny.

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**Jorge-789995** · 12-31-2012, 07:04 AM

Originally Posted by dirtyd851

Your standard stainless harware store bolt would be similar to a grade 5 bolt. Sorry, I'm a machinist, haha.

I think stainless is closer to a grade 2 bolt. I would not use stainless in place of a grade 5 bolt. For some reason, the stainless bolts from my hardware store have been junk compared to those purchased from places like McMaster Carr.

**Xheart** · 12-31-2012, 07:42 AM

Few drops of machine oil helps with cutting, but I have shattered several disk during the last session. Either nut is not off yet.
The passenger side space is narrower than the driver's. The rotary tool handle is bit wider, so I am adjusting as I go.

Starting my 4th day of removal, I have few thoughts for your comments:
1) would it be better to use a 3" stainless steel cutting disk, which will require more room for the tool, hence...
2) would unscrewing the two brackets, toward the rear and one holding muffler, angle and lower it enough to fit the 3" cut off tool?
3) would lowering put strain on CAT assembly sensors, gasket, and items near exhaust manifold?
4) or bend/crack any part of the component th

**Astro14** · 12-31-2012, 07:46 AM

Lowering will risk cracking downpipe flex joint (ask me how I know...).

If you're breaking discs, it's because there is a side load on them...or you're pressing too hard....let the tool do the work, don't apply pressure to the dremel....just let it cut...you can cut through a bank safe with a dremel...if you're patient....

**Xheart** · 12-31-2012, 11:38 AM

Originally Posted by Astro14

Lowering will risk cracking downpipe flex joint (ask me how I know...).

If you're breaking discs, it's because there is a side load on them...or you're pressing too hard....let the tool do the work, don't apply pressure to the dremel....just let it cut...you can cut through a bank safe with a dremel...if you're patient....

Thank you Astro.
The optimism had started to fade a bit.
Using oil more frequently, no loss of disc.
Fewer sparks today as compare to yesterday's fireworks.
I would like to believe fewer is better with study pressure.
One has to look real close to determine where the nut ends and the flange surface begins.
I may nick the flange before knowing.

**Xheart** · 01-01-2013, 12:01 PM

For a family man it takes 5 painful days.
After separating at the flange, loosen 17mm muffler bracket, and 12mm brackets bolts to lower 1" while supported with bungee cords.
Support the muffler with bottle-jack use wood piece for buffer.
Pull out the rubber hanger from the tailpipe.
Remove the bungee cords starting at flange.
Let the beast rest a bit before move it aside.

Many thanks.