P0017, P0016 After removing and replacing timing cover Help!?

[pittsjock]

But you did throw a code initially

Did you throw both P0016 and P0017?

#1 Threw both codes after I did the PCV (now about 3 weeks ago). The solenoids were very gunked up and one screen (think intake) was totally clogged, so I cleaned and replaced the gaskets. The codes cleared, then came back on, then went off after about 70-100 miles. They have stayed off.

[Antherzoll]

Search "Volvo CVVT" on flea bay, tons come up.

[8pack]

I was told that I can test the solenoid with a multimeter. If there is continuity between the posts it is good. If not, it needs to be replaced. I don't have my multimeter with me so I am borrowing one tomorrow.

Make sense?

[8pack]

I have continuity so the Solenoid SHOULD work. I just can't understand this one. I am buying 2 new ones for $25 each. If that doesn't solve it needs to go to shop.

Still open to any input. I am trying to figure out what I could have damaged or disconnected by accident when doing the PCV update that would affect this.

[pittsjock]

Still open to any input. I am trying to figure out what I could have damaged or disconnected by accident when doing the PCV update that would affect this.

Did you do anything to the cam position sensors on the back of the motor?

[8pack]

Not knowingly! but I didn't know they existed...where are they? I was crawling around all over the top of the motor to get the turbo pipe disconnected and reconnected and was bumping around there from all different angles. I could have done something then easily. Also a lot of contortion and gymnastics to change the turbo return pipe gaskets....

Any description and location information would be great and I can look tonight!

[pittsjock]

Not knowingly! but I didn't know they existed...where are they?

Here is what they look like:



They are on the back (driver side) of the motor. The intake sensor is visible and the exhaust (rear) position sensor is under the top motor mount bracket that you removed when you replaced the PCV main vent hose, although you can see the plug and part of it. I would be surprised if you did anything to them, but worth checking to make sure everything is plugged in, etc.

[8pack]

Ok. I did some more research. It looks like I should have 3.7 ohms resistance. I have close to zero. So now I will check against the used ones. In the interim I will check the the connections on the cam solenoids.

[8pack]

This is cross posted in the event someone in the future is searching for an answer.

GOT IT!!! 400 miles with no codes ....Short story, Solenoids were not getting oil pressure. Something was clogging the passages....

I finally was able to bring it to my indy. He put it on the Vadis and said it was coming up the solenoids. He verified the timing was ok. He said to go buy 2 new solenoids and if that didn't work it was an oiling problem....he has been saying all along he thought it was an oil pressure issue and research on here indicated it as well....well I wasn't going to spend $300 for nothing after already getting 2 junkyards solenoids, one that came broken already, so I went and got 2 new gaskets and some sea foam "Deep Creep". I took off the solenoids and sprayed tiny amounts of the deep creep into all the oil galleys/passageways under the solenoid. I noticed that the deep creep initially pooled but as I let it sit it drained down....I kept adding little bits to each passage.

I did do a few larger blasts to clear out the oil in there and let the solvent through. After a few minutes I was able to spray the solvent in the intake side and it would quickly drain through. In particular the hole where the screen is took the longest to clear up. The exhaust side took a lot longer and at first I wasn't sure whether it was working at all. After about 20 minutes I went back and did a couple of more rounds.......again that hole where the screen is was slow to clear and I kept putting the red tube as deep in as it would go and spray.....

Sprayed some deep creep into each solenoid since at that point I didn't think much more could harm it.......

Buttoned it back up.....started it. Let it idle to get the oil flowing, a couple of motor revs and then went for a drive. Plugged in the OBDII reader.....Only one code, P0017 and no pending codes!!! Ah! onto something. Drove it about a mile, cleared the codes and shut it down. Restarted it and P0017 came back instantly (but no P0016!), check engine light came on immediately. Drove it another mile with 2 full throttle acceleration runs up to red line (ish), pulled over, cleared the codes and started it back up.....Codes are gone! No pending codes either.....drove it another couple of miles with the all clear.

Let's see if it stays that way, but it was definitely something a little crudded up from when I did the PCV and cleaned out the clogged passages. Something got up in there and caused all this! Hopefully problem solved. I have a 400 mile drive tomorrow so if the codes don't come back on that run then I am pretty sure we solved the problem.

So, Long story short, if you are getting these codes or P0026/27 take the time to do an engine flush and/or spray in some deep creep or equivalent from the top. Check the Ohms on the Solenoids and verify they come up over 3.7.....

[8pack]

Latest Update:

P0017 came back. I repeated the exact procedure above and it went away for the same period of time and then came back again after another long highway drive and some short trips. My indie said if it came back again, change the solenoid.

I bought a new solenoid yesterday and installed it in the dealer parking lot. Code went away immediately. Let's see if it stays away now. I think it will. I think using carb cleaner to clean the solenoids was not a good idea. If you want to clean them, use the deep creep or some other oil based cleaner. I still think I had some crud build up since the front solenoid error cleared immediately after I did the engine flush the first time. So lesson learned. Ideally drop the pan when you do the PCV change. Change the gaskets on the solenoids but only clean them with a non caustic solvent. If you don't drop the pan do a motor flush and oil change to get any crud that broke free dissolved and out.

Good luck!