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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,077

    Default Antherzoll's 05XC70 Build Thread

    Hey Guys,

    Not much of an introduction, but I'm Anthony and this is my XC70. Purchased in December 2012 with only 61k mi, now at October 2019 it's just over 145k mi and still going strong. Just pretty much doing my own thing and having fun with it as I go along. I've recently updated this thread with links, trips, and repairs, but feel free to message me with any questions. I am more active on Swedespeed these days, but if you have any questions send me a PM.

    Enjoy!

    Engine/Transmission:
    - Hilton Tuning
    - TD04HL-16T (Modified): 11 blade GTX compressor wheel, 11 blade turbine, 7cm^2 turbine housing, 0.3 BAR Wastegate Actuator.
    - RaceS60R 3" down pipe w/catalysts
    - Eurosport Tuning Touring Exhaust
    - Do88 Intercooler
    - AEM Progressive WMI System
    - Volvo R model airbox w/MAF
    - IPD Turbo Inlet Hose
    - IPD Charge Air Pipe
    - IPD Throttle Inlet Tube
    - GFB Diverter Valve
    - Snabb Throttle Body and Manifold Spacer
    - Hayden Transmission Cooler w/ thermostat and inline filter
    - Oil catch can
    - Custom dual gauge mount w/ IPD Boost & Innovate AFR.

    Suspension/Drivetrain:
    - Bad Swede 2" lift systems
    - Custom 19mm rear strut mount spacers
    - Custom 16mm front/rear subframe spacers
    - XC90 336mm front & 308mm rear brakes
    - XC90 Lower Front End Conversion:
    XC90 control arms
    XC90 spindle/w hub & ball joints
    XC90 2.5t front left/right axles
    - XC90 17" Neptune Wheels.
    - XC90 235/65R17 wheel well modification
    - Toyo Open Country AT2
    - H&R XC90 25mm wheel spacers (rear axle)
    - XC90 V8 Gen3 (2008) Haldex DEM
    - IPD XC70 Sway Bars
    - IPD Subframe Inserts
    - IPD Skid plate

    Utility:
    - Yakima Load Warrior w/double extension, 4x cross bars, custom flush mount, tire carrier, load stops, quick fists.
    - Volvo 2" tow bar
    - LED Conversion resistor banks
    - H8 Battery Upgrade
    - Auxiliary Third Row Seats

    Trips/Adventures:

    - May/June 2015 Crosscountry Road Trip 10,500km Yellowstone/Cascades/British Columbia
    - August 2015 Haliburton Highlands
    - May 2016 Catskills Camping
    - May 2017 Bald Eagle State Forest/Volvos At Carlisle
    - June 2017 Kawartha Highlands
    - July 2017 Crosscountry Road Trip 8,800km Minnesota/Saskatchewan/Alberta/British Columbia/Lake Superior
    - August 2017 Haliburton Highlands
    - August 2017 Kawartha Highlands
    - January 2018 Oompah Winter Cabin
    - May 2018 Volvos at Carlisle
    - June 2018 Rockwood Conservation Area
    - June 2018 Halliburton Highlands
    - July 2018 Pinery Provincial Park
    - July 2018 Crotch Lake
    - August 2018 East Coast Road Trip 4,400km Quebec/New Brunswick/Nova Scotia
    - October 2018 Guelph Lake Reservoir
    - October 2018 Guelph Lake Reservoir
    - May 2019 Longpoint Provincial Park
    - May 2019 Haliburton Highlands
    - June 2019 Rockwood Conservation Area
    - August 2019 Crosscountry Road Trip 9600km South Dakota/Wyoming/Montana/British Columbia/Alberta/Lake Superior/Lake Huron

    Major Repairs:

    01-28-2015 - Steering Rack/Bushings/Spring Seats/IPD Swaybar Install

    12-13-2015 - Haldex pump replaced/fluid service
    01-20-2016 - Valvebody replaced
    04-24-2016 - Angle gear seals/collar sleeve
    03-26-2017 - Exhaust manifold gasket/Turbo turbine housing replacement

    08-15-2018 - Throttle body failure

    01-26-2019 - Bent rear toe arm and wheel

    Other Forum Threads:

    @antherzoll Instagram

    https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?p=2285396

    Overland Bound Thread
    Last edited by Antherzoll; 05-01-2020 at 10:06 AM.
    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    59

    Default

    Installing yourself? If so take pictures and video if possible. It might get me to make a similar type purchase and have some fun!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,077

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by I_am_perfect View Post
    Installing yourself? If so take pictures and video if possible. It might get me to make a similar type purchase and have some fun!
    I'm going to be doing it side-by-side with my local guy. It will still be a month or so before all the parts are accumulated (waiting on EST's exhaust sale), and installed. I'll try and take pictures and maybe a video, but no promises.
    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Healdsburg
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Your going to enjoy the upgrade. The difference above 60 is amazing, and good choice with the touring exhaust. Its a big pipe from the side but looks good from the back, also no drone.

    Will be following this

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,077

    Default Turbo and Downpipe Installed

    Finally had a chance to get around to installing all the part. Well most of the parts, the catback exhaust is back ordered and will have to wait for later, but no biggie. Overall the install wasn't too hard, just took a lot of time and labour as it was my first time getting this deep into my XC, but all is in and nothing leaks.

    Here is my process:

    - Disconnected the battery.

    - Strut Brace: 4x 13mm bolt on the strut towers and one 18mm nut and bolt for the motor mount. There is one clip on the passenger side for a wire harness

    - Air Box: Removed all the part being supported to the air box. Disconnected the MAF and the intake pipe. Slide to the left and pull up.

    - Intake Air Pipe: Previously installed IPD intake pipe. Disconnect the pipe for the turbo housing. Pull back and turn CW to gain access to the 2 vacuum hoses and the PTC. Disconnect the the electrical connector for the PTC which has the Jesus clip on it. Disconnect the hose from the PTC and the 2 other hoses on the pipe

    - Charge Air Pipe: Previously installed IPD Charge Air Pipe. Disconnect the pipe clamp and fold out of the way

    - Turbo Heat Shield: 3x 10mm Bolts. Push the heat shield down into the space beside the downpipe the work it out.

    - Front O2 Sensor: Right under the area where the intake pipe was the is the connector for the front O2 sensor. The connector sits on a brace and is mounted with nylon retainers which can be pulled out. The connector has a white tab lock that lifts up to pull it apart. Route the wire back to space where the from O2 is located.

    Turbo/ Downpipe From Top of Car:
    - 3x 10mm Downpipe bolt. *Could also work the 2 lower bolt from underneath if access is too tight.
    - 2x 13mm Turbo to manifold nuts
    - 2x Vacuum lines from the turbo. one on the housing and one on the wastegate *MARK THESE
    - 1x 17mm Oil Supply Banjo Bolt from the top of the turbo

    - Loosen the coolant reservoir cap and the engine oil cap then lift the car.

    - Drain the coolant: Either through the lower rad hose or the petcock

    - Drain the Oil: Not a must, but I was due for a change anyway

    - Downpipe Turbo Bottom of Car:
    Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust
    Remove the retaining bracket: 4x 13mm Bolts. Bracket retains the heat shield and some wiring.
    Disconnect the rear O2 sensor: the connector is located by the retaining bracket. It has a red lock tab the you can wedge a flat head under to undo the connection.
    Remove the rubber hangers and the pipe will come free.

    Now for the fun part. You will become real familiar with your angle gear as it will get in the way of everything you do here.

    - Disconnect the Oil/Coolant pipe retaining bracket: Don't remember what size, but it was a tork head, and sits right behind the angle gear. It only hold the two pipes together and nothing else.
    - Remove the 2x 17mm coolant Banjo bolts: Fairly east as they are facing straight back.
    - Disconnect the oil return line: This one is a bit tricky. Used a 3/8" swivel ratchet connection with T30 tork on the end of a 18" extension. Used one hand to guide the bit, the other to work the wrench. Once the bolts are out, wiggle the other end out of the block and retrieve the O-ring from the block.
    - Disconnect the oil supply line: Not sure if you have to, but for the sake of not damaging it I removed it. On the passenger side of the block there is a 19mm banjo bolt on the other side of the line.
    - Remove the 2 lower manifold nuts: 2x 13mm nuts. the one on the passenger side was easier as there was good access. the other is kind of wedged between the angle gear and the transmission. Took me a bit of fussing but I got it out eventually. A 13mm stubby box-end wrench was key to my success.

    By now everything was loose and apart. I was able to remove the turbo from the space between the block and the passenger side drive-shaft from under the car. The new turbo fit into this space as well without a hassle.

    Pretty much install is the reverse of removal. I didn't use any torque specs, just my gut feeling to reassemble everything. The turbo came with a CBV block-off, the diverter valve I had ordered was a snap to put in with the bosses on the IPD pipes. The down pipe didn't come with the lower bolt hole for the turbo heat sheild, so I fastened it inplace with the two shorter top bolt and it's holding firm in place.

    After the oil and coolant was topped off, I pulled Fuse #11 from the engine compartment fuse box to disable the ignition coils, cranked the engine over a few time, put the fuse back, started it up and let it run for 15min before driving. Nothing has leaked so far and I have had it hot and cold several time. I haven't gone into boost territory yet, but i will post up some data later on once the break-in is done, but what I can say is that I already hear a major difference in the sound of the turbo spooling compared to stock.

    Although the hardware kit I received had gaskets and hardware to piece everything back together. It did not include new washers for the 19mm banjo bolt and new manifold to turbo nuts and studs. I had to go to my local dealer to pick up those extra parts and it came out to $40 for 2 manifold studs, 2 manifold nuts and 2 19mm copper washers. You need the manifold bolts as you will most likely not be able to retrieve the ones from your old exhaust housing,

    The tough parts of the job for me were:
    - Removing the Oil Return line from the turbo
    - Removing the lower diver side turbo to manifold nut
    - Removing the rear O2 sensor from the old cat
    - Reinstalling the Intake pipe to the compressor housing. A little vaseline would help here. I didn't realize it, but the intake on the new turbo is larger then the old turbo (NO S**T). Had a good time with that.

    During the install I also replaced my front O2 sensor with a new bosch, a new MAF, and new plugs with the HD coils, and replaced my K&N for a OE filter for good measure. The car actually idles a ton better, nice and smooth with very little vibration. Not sure what did it, either it's because my engine is breathing easier, or my sensors were shot, or a combination of both, everything on my engine checked out before the install, and i don't think it's the tune as i was running the stage 2 tune with my previous setup for a week before this install with the same vibration. I'm very happy with this result as I became accustomed to the XC vibrating a bit at idle.

    Sorry for the crappy photos. greasy hands...

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    Last edited by Antherzoll; 04-30-2014 at 06:38 AM.
    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,077

    Default Custom Gauge Pod

    Pics speaks for itself.
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    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,077

    Default Transmission cooler

    Once again pretty straight forward once the bumper is removed. Had to hole saw two holes in the baffle for the lines and used duct seal around them to keep it from rubbing.
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    Last edited by Antherzoll; 04-28-2014 at 10:06 PM.
    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,077

    Default Random Pics

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    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
    Posts
    1,077

    Default More Random Pics

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    2005 XC70 Crystal Green | Hilton | 16T | Bad Swede | 130k miles

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Dover, NH
    Posts
    196

    Default

    Nice work. The gauge pods look fantastic. Much better than sticking the gauge on the vent like all the kids are doing with their Rs.
    2005 XC70 Ruby Red
    2007 V70R GT 477/Nordkap

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