Driver's axle broke while prying it out, ideas?

[Xheart]

I have a rebuild replacement to go in. It is our 2001 V70XC.
Gathering insights to extract the c-clip section from the transmission, here are two photos...

[Tahoe_XC]

Did that happen as you were trying to remove or while driving?

I think your best bets are to drill out. Go up in size until you get to say .675 or larger then tap and insert bolt and try to remove.

[Xheart]

Did that happen as you were trying to remove or while driving?

I think your best bets are to drill out. Go up in size until you get to say .675 or larger then tap and insert bolt and try to remove.

I was using pry bar while hitting on chisel to pop the c-clip in my home garage.

The starting center hole is already there. it will help reaching .675, it is a pretty big circle to tap.

I will purchase a tap/die set, which one you recommend http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...?q=tap+and+die.

If (!?) i am successful to put a bolt on it, are there puller for such application. What is a likelihood of cir-clip failing.

Thanks for the help Tahoe.

[Scopeman]

I would not use the Harbor Freight tap. Cheap taps are sure way to problems, especially on mission critical jobs. Cheap taps are dull, have burrs, and may break due to poor steel and heat treating. I would buy a good American made tap, and pay the extra. It will be sharp, no burrs, and will get the job done. Use oil or cutting fluid as well.

[sjonnie]

If (!?) i am successful to put a bolt on it, are there puller for such application. What is a likelihood of cir-clip failing.

I don't think there is a puller designed to work in the manner you would need. Perhaps your best option is to borrow a slide hammer from your local auto store, figure out what size bot you need to fit in the end of the slide hammer and drill / tap to that specification. Don't bother with your old blunt drills, go buy a new set of quality metal drills for $30 or so and one tap for the size you need for the bolt and make sure to take it slow.

[Antherzoll]

Ouch, my stomach sank when I saw the pic.

Tap a large diameter threaded rod into the shaft, get a length of 2x4 or 2x6 and hole saw a hole just larger then the shaft and place it over the threaded rod. Get a couple fender washers and a nut and crank it out.

No?

[Xheart]

Thanks you for feeling my pain. I was stunned, disbelief... did not sleep well last night.
I like the idea of threading the stud itself after the seal is pulled.
I have a new set of American Drill Master high speed steel bit set up to 1/2" with 1/64 increments.
I will stop at Home Depot for quality tap and die. There is a set by Irwin.

[Tahoe_XC]

Remember you are not trying to drill all the way through just deep enough to thread and slide hammer out. You will likely need a bottom tap. Plus, plenty of cutting oil for both the drilling and thread cutting.

[Xheart]

I would not use the Harbor Freight tap. Cheap taps are sure way to problems, especially on mission critical jobs. Cheap taps are dull, have burrs, and may break due to poor steel and heat treating. I would buy a good American made tap, and pay the extra. It will be sharp, no burrs, and will get the job done. Use oil or cutting fluid as well.

A quick search for quality tap brings this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Irwin-1-4...8203/100033231.

The marking shows 7/16" for drill hole to secure a 1/4" thread. Stellar customer reviews.

There is also GRAINGER not toooo far for these http://www.grainger.com/product/OSG-...26s_pp%3Dfalse

[winsotaxc]

Xheart

So sorry to hear that this happened to you. You are so helpful on this site! The only thing I might have to add is that when I did mine, I had poor tools. I had to just be a bit patient and work around with a screw driver as a pry bar. I think the moving around with force not particularly evenly distributed helps to free the snap ring. You may want to try to rotate with a slide hammer to find the sweet spot to get the snap ring to release.

Wishing you the best.

Wade