Those gaskets go on without, repeat, without sealer.
You’re asking to repeat the job by adding this gunk to your exhaust manifold gaskets. It cannot handle the heat. Not even close.
If you’ve got the head off, then timesert (much better than helicoil) any iffy holes, install new studs*.
Then install the head, put the gaskets on the studs, and the manifold on the studs. Tighten from the inside (center of the manifold) to the outside to specified torque.
No goop. No antisieze. No gunk. Clean, dry threads. Clean dry mating surfaces.
Done right, it will be fine for years.
Get clever and you’ll have a chance to practice this again, and soon, when they fail.
*every manifold on an aluminum head I’ve ever worked with has had studs come out. The clean threads in the head are no match for the rust on the nuts, which overcome the installation torque on those studs. Since the studs are all rusted up anyway, get new ones. And new washers and nuts. Many kits are available from various Volvo suppliers.
Current Fleet:
2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)
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