Roof Trim Discoloration and Restoration

[Raynald]

This is an old topic, since many '01 V70XC were plagued with this problem. When I bought my XC used, these trims where no longer under warranty. I didn't even bother asking my dealer how much it would cost to replace.

As I said in a previous post, I'm far of what we can (even) call an amateur DIYer. In spite of my lack of skills and experience, I took the plunge and begun restoring these ugly looking discolorated roof trims. For now, I only did the driver's side (the worse...). No paint involved. Only four clear coat applications, some light buffing, polishing and good wax.

Results are better than expected.

Discolorated roof trim. This is the passenger side most rear trim part. Driver's side looked like this all the way, from hood to taillight.



Driver's side, same part after homemade restoration.



Other pictures in the Photo galleries.

If anyone interested, I can write down the details of the quite honestly not too difficult procedure. Just a note however, I really don't know if it would work for light colors (Polar arctic, Silver or Ash Gold). It remains to be seen.

[gary]

WOW, Raynald...that looks absolutely fantastic. Great job!

[Art]

Awesome job Raynald! The issue of discoloured roof trim has dogged this forum it seems like forever. Glad to see that you found a solution for your car. In previous threads, I seem to recall that certain build dates of ash gold models, in particular, were subject to this phenomenon.

[XCMark]

Nice job! You were brave but it worked out fine for you!

[Artz]

Raynald-

If you don't mind, can you document the steps you took?

ArtZ

[John@CdnRockies]

Merveilleux mon ami. This looks as good any professonal would have done it. Do post your magic steps to the elixir of youth for our Volvos.

John

[Raynald]

Glad you ask!

Estimated time:

• 8 hours to remove, treat and replace all the parts.
• 48 hours drying time.

What you'll need:

• a flat screwdriver.
• a Torx25 screwdriver.
• methyl alcohol (methanol).
• disposable rags.
• automotive masking tape.
• 1 (big) aerosol of clear coat.
• a good polish.
• a good wax.

The toughest part is removing the rails without breaking anything. I use these instructions (thanks to Hiro) in Japanese. You can get a pretty decent translation using Altavista. Here's some recommendations:

1. Be careful when removing rail covers. They are tightly fitted. You'll need a flat screwdriver for both rail ends covers. The center cover can easily be removed by hand. The pictures shows red arrows to indicate lifting direction.
2. You'll need a Torx25 driver to unscrew the rails. Be careful when removing the rails because there are some rubber bushings around the screws under the rails.
3. If you're alone, unscrew both ends first and the center last. Better yet, ask somebody to help you. The thing as a tendancy to "spring" a little and you wouldn't want to scratch the paint...
4. Put the screws, the washers and the rubber bushings back in the holes to avoid "loosing" the backplate in which each screws go and to prevent debris and water to enter the holes.
5. Look carefully at this picture. You'll see that the trims are held by black clips ont the top, and by one black, one white and three blue clips as for the windshield trim. Be very careful when removing this part. The blue clips are very fragile. Unclp the first (black), the second (white) and slide the molding upward, toward the rear of the car.

Ok, part 1 is over. Thank God, it's easier to put them back. Now part 2...

1. As I did, start by treating the smallest part of the trim near the tail light. If you mess up, well, it won't show to much!
2. Using methyl alchool (methanol) and disposable rags, wipe thouroughly (and I mean thouroughly ..) all paint an coating until it becomes completely dull (and I also mean completely...). Don't worry, the syntetic rubber won't be affected by the stuff.
3. Use a very light abrasive (don't laugh, I used baking soda...) to get rid of as many imperfection as you can, if there's any. Wipe off again with some alcohol.
4. Leave them to dry, at least half an hour.
5. Mask the rubber using automotive tape. It won't leave any residue and it stays fit.
6. Follow the instuctions and apply three or four thin coats of clear coat. You may have to buff the surface a little between each coat, but the stuff I bought didn't mention to do anything except giving another coat while the previous one was still a little sticky.
7. Let the thing dry completely (in my case, 48 hours).
8. Put the all the things back where they belong. The trims are easy to put back: just push them firmly in place over each clip. Again, be careful with the windshield trim. The darn little thing is pretty fussy.
9. Use a good polish to rub out the imperfections and get a nice finish. Again, follow the instructions provided with the clear coat you'll use
10. A week or so after, you may top it with one ou two coats of wax.
11. Enjoy the view!

Voilà!