I'm changing pcv, timing belt and seals. I see two different pcv kits for my 2005 xc70. One with the box and a few hoses and one without the box and several hoses. Should I buy both? Thanks!
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I'm changing pcv, timing belt and seals. I see two different pcv kits for my 2005 xc70. One with the box and a few hoses and one without the box and several hoses. Should I buy both? Thanks!
Where are you shopping?
I would call IPD and get th complete kit. Box and all the parts. Be certain to clean the block to sump passages, too.
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Seconded on the full kit. If that box is full of gunk and you don’t replace it you’re not doing yourself a whole lot of good for the effort.
I used the FCP Euro kit and the job went as smoothly as possible. It is a time killer, but nothing too difficult. Get a long thin wobble 10mm for the intake manifold bolts. and a clamp crimp.
Be warned that cleaning this will release a bunch of junk into the oil pan that will get pulled into the oil filter. After about 1000 miles after the PCV change I did the normal oil service this weekend and was shocked at the "gunk" that was pulled into the filter. EWWWW! I took about 10 minutes of freaking out to realize where the gunk came from and to relax. Not to worry, the gunk is not enough to active the bypass and grenade the bearings. All that said, change your oil 500-1000 after the PCV service to rib yourself of any of the gunk that comes out of the lower PCV drain into the block.
FWIW I changed the PCV at ~165k, but IMO this is a good 100k service cycle just to keep it clean. YMMV, I imagine short trips make this worse vs the long road miles.
I included oil sump service during complete PCV -- a 100% PCV success. Laborious but minor cost of seal.
The MPG is up from 13.2 to 16.6.
Would a seafoam treatment before PCV an alternate to oil sump service?
2001 V70XC +204k miles/ XeMODeX/ Pirelli 12/32"/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Great Lakes
Well got the manifold off, located the rear banjo bolt for a total line replacement. Got the rear cam covers off and no leaks in the back seals. Couldn't seem to get the swivel 10mm on the hard manifold bolt. Crows foot worked but fell off into the abyss when bringing it back out. Got the side cover off the vvt pulleys and getting ready to lock down the cams and do the seals and timing belt. Not as bad as I thought it would be.
The youtubes show making the timing marks for the relaxed and the spring loaded positions. Then they rotate exhaust cam slots to parallel for locking. Then proceed to the pulleys and belt in the front. Is this correct?
If you've got a new gasket for the throttle body, you can remove and clean it pretty easily with the manifold off.
This is the vid that helped me when I had to replace the intake cam seal on my 2002:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4uLvH151-c&t=28s
2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car
Thanks for the link. Been watching that one. The 2005 has dual vvt. Not sure if those are spring loaded. I'm just concerned that without the notches for timing marks that I'll sink it up. After reading a few threads on this subject it seems if I make my own timing marks and keep everything aligned, it's all the same. From what I can decipher, aligning the slots on the rear of the cam is correct alignment.
Found the timing marks. The mark on the intake side is a very, very small notch. Exhaust side is very visible. Ligned them up with the cover and the slots on the rear are lined up paralell. Nearly complete with my home made cam lock. Just pecking away at it. Thanks for the comments.
It helps me to count the notches on the old belt between the timing marks before I remove the belt. Then when you put the new belt on, count to make sure you've got the same number of notches between the marks. This can avoid the problem of being "one notch off."
2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car
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