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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    590

    Default Battery - Highest Cold Cranking For Cold Region

    Would a 900 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) be too much for the Alaskan temps?
    I currently have a 730 CCA and think I need some more 'juice'.

    Thanks
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Maroon)
    2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,125

    Default

    Alaska is no colder than Northern Sweden. If the car is in good shape, why not just the OEM Battery?
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    590

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Alaska is no colder than Northern Sweden. If the car is in good shape, why not just the OEM Battery?
    Alaska is much colder, or equal to Northern Sweden. Northern Alaska can hit at below-sixty.
    Fairbanks could about forty-below. However, Anchorage, since the twenty-six years here, I
    think the lowest I have had is about below-thirty-five. This was many years ago. It's been at
    the ten to twenty-below.

    A car being "in good shape" is relative. It's a 2001 car and how many things can be wrong
    without knowing. When you really need the car would be when something happens, I have
    two young ones also.

    Higher cranking worked out so well with my '85 Bimmer. Actually, I was thinking about the
    810CCA (+/-) battery. Forgot to mention that we (in Anchorage) tend to leave the heater/blower
    on, at least at half mark and directed to the windshield so as to melt the ice before using the wipers.

    One aspect I have not considered is using a lighter oil weight than the OEM for the winter.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Oka; 10-07-2017 at 11:14 AM. Reason: Added more information.
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Maroon)
    2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    513

    Default

    A H8 is the largest size battery that fits the compartment, intended for the EU diesel models, then use the highest CCA you can get, extra capacity will certainly will not have any negative effects.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Delta, California
    Posts
    131

    Default

    H8 by AC Delco is the best battery out there after all the researching I did.
    2001 X/C 70 - Youngest son's car for someone that is 6'10" tall - and it fits him like a glove.

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