aw5550sn autobox solenoid changed -advice needed

[jgjones095]

ok

after about what seems like months ive got my volvo v70xc off the ramps and back onto its wheels

jobs achieved include replace broken front ns coil spring
external filter and replace solenoids in the autobox.

plenty of other jobs to complete but autobox issue is what i want to solve 1st.

for thoughs unfamiliar with my volvo story a brief history
bought the car end of feb via ebay
day after collecting it transmission service required light comes on.
visit volvo who software upgrade and advise oil change.
didnt carry out the oil change as had a 400mile drive home.
no issue with the driving (so the wife tells me) but mostly motorway driving.
once home searched for local gearbox specialists who quoted me for a rebuild and a valve body change.
decided to go down the diy route and start with oil change gibbons method and b4 cover.
the car then progressively got worse.
flaring up 2-3 and 3-4 and down 3-2 and 2-1
the longer it wad driven and chsnged gear the worse it got and eventually tsr message constantly appeared. which could be reset via the cheeoo code reader.
driving it in manual mode was the only way to avoid these constant flares.
I decided it was time to change the soleniods so I have done.
also used clans method of oil change this time.
I intend to do a series of sump dumps
I have underfilled the box my 0.5l frol what came out to allow me to get the correct levels as I wasnt sure if the level was correct


To the results.....
when parked up it clunks from p to r and n to r
(all engine mounts have been replaced recently)
when I drive it (only 10min down the road so far) the flaring seems to have gone but it does still clunk 3-4 and on a change down too somewhere.
so not perfect!
could this be the fluid level?

a drive to work tomorrow shouls help establish the outcome.

my question is do I need to readapt the box for the new solenoids?

if this does not solve it im onto the valve body next, now I know what version I have!

[jda2000]

you need fresh mobil 3309 fluid in there, then reset the fluid counter, then reset the tranny adaptives.

After all three above are done, you do a "drive cycle" to correct the gear slamming.

[jgjones095]

got fresh fluid
fluid counter was reset about 1k ago after the last fluid chsnge

the adaption is needed them
n.

whats the best way to do this and the drive cycle

[Astro14]

Ensure fluid level is correct by getting it hot (80C for trans, about 20 minutes after engine warms up) and checking on level surface.

Take it to dealer to have them put it in adapt mode.

Read description at end of notes here:
http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/h...ment-Notes.pdf

If the SLT solenoid bore was not resleeved, you may not have correct line pressure. Replacing solenoids is not the same as rebuilding valve body.

[jgjones095]

hi astro

thanks for the reply.
I am not sure what you mean by this?
If the SLT solenoid bore was not resleeved, you may not have correct line pressure
ive fitted the solenoids straight into the old valve body


I understand that a solenoid replacement and valve body replacement are completely different.
I was going to go down the valvebody replacement route but the issue I had was I did not know what version of valvebody I had until opening the cover and that in the uk I can only get from the states.
since I visited the usa I decided to buy the solenoid and try.
I have a photo in another thread but no onechas confirmed the version. I believe it to be the first type from the casting

I followed that guide for replacing my solenoids when I did them amonth ago.
typically one damaged gearbox seal stopped me after finishing.

I shall readapt and hope to clear up a few harsh shifts 3-4 and 4-3 but it is so much better than before! no longer flares or clonks into gear.

still need to check the levels as my drive is a hill!


if there are still issues then its the valvebody replacement.

ive also got 2 wishbones a front spring a nivomat and all the engine belts to sort out
damn car

[Astro14]

Sorry, not pressure solenoid, but pressure regulating valve sleeve...examples here: http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/...%5Bunit%5D=419

Yes, i would readapt the box for the new solenoids The harsh garage shifts (P-R-N-D) can indicate low line pressure...so that's worrisome, but if they've not been adapted, it may simply take the re-adapt cycle to cure. Re-adapt mode allows the ECU to quickly bias solenoid duty cycle for smooth operation. Ordinarily, the change in bias is very slow...it accounts for wear, but not repair...

Wishbones, belts, yep, done those too....my advice, given your car's age, would be to do the water pump when you do the timing belt. I did my timing belt at 105,000 miles, (I think) and at 165,000 miles, I got a water pump leak, so in went a new accessory belt, new timing belt, tensioner and idler along with that pump...

I rebuilt the front suspension about the same time. New wishbones, ball joints, struts, swaybar links, strut mounts, spring seats, bump stops and bellows, along with new shocks in the rear. Rides like new.

[jgjones095]

cheers be rude not to do the water pump I guess

mileage is only 120k so low miles relative to some other 13 year volvos

ill check oil levels and re adapt and hope for the best.

[jda2000]

If your XC70 is an early 2001 built, the slamming going from 3 to 4 or 4 to 3 gears, could be from a inoperative B4 servo valve.

Do a search on B4 servo cover replacement, to see if it applies to you.

[jgjones095]

hi john already done the b4 cover already