2007 XC70 with harsh 1-2 and 2-1 shifts when hot

[Ren]

I am a new XC70 owner; purchased a 2007 XC70 about a month ago, with about 111K on clock. About 2 weeks ago I experienced some hard shifts when hot (city traffic) especially 1-2 and 2-1. Searched the forums and found it might be the valve body. I also have a 2 second delayed shift when hot going from R-D and D-R.

So I performed a Gibbons flush. Used transtune for about 100 miles before flushing. Used Mobil 3309 fluid - about 15 quarts. Also installed a magnefine filter. However the harsh shift is still there when hot. It has been about 200 miles since the flush and I am hoping it would get better as I accumulate some post-flush mileage.

Am I the only one with a post 2003/4 model XC70 with this issue?
Does anyone know if I can obtain a rebuilt valve body for this model year?
Is the Valve Body the same between a 2003/4 and a 2007?
Any input would be great appreciated!

Another question i have is the slight clicking sound when pressing/letting off the gas pedal. It is audible at very low speeds. (might be present at higher speeds as well, but not audible to me). Any ideas what it might be? Drive shaft play?

Besides the tranny issue hover above me like a guillotine I have been very happy with the purchase.

Thanks,
Ren.

[JRL]

You need to take it to a dealer; have the adaptions reset, the fluid counters reset, and a new drive cycle performed before you go any farther
Fluid alone doesn't always fix things.
I believe V/bodies are the same 05-07, 03-04 is NOT the same.

(2005s-2007 went with a different electrical system).

Clicking could be several things, axle nuts could possibly need to be tightened for one, but at over 100K you WILL hear some clicking at times

[Volvoholic]

I feel as though I can throw a little input in with this issue.
Assuming you have the AW55-5X transmission, there was a valve body redesign sometime within the MY2007 build dates. I have no idea how to determine which valve body design you (or I) have nor do I know the dates of implementation. I was told you won't know unless you pop open the transmission but take that with a grain of salt. There may be another way, I don't know it.
My '07 XC70 with the 2.4T, Haldex-4, and AW55-5X transmission has been experiencing harsh shifts through all gears going up or down and when shifting into a drive gear with the shift lever. The Volvo service technician and I have reason to believe it is the valve body getting clogged or wearing out and has nothing to do with the transmission itself. This is because mine can, at times, shift flawlessly while, at other times, shift horrendously.
If you have these experiences along with those outlined in this post (http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...094#post161094) you should have probable cause to assume it is the valve body.

If your transmission DOES NOT experience flawless shifting at times then you probably have a larger issue at hand. Regarding temperature, mine gets smoother the hotter it gets. It is rougher at first start and lower operating temperatures.

I recommend doing what JRL said to do. If that doesn't fix or help anything then you can escalate it as a possible mechanical issue. At this point, it sounds more of a computing/logic issue or an issue with the valve body.

On a side note, Aisin & Warner transmissions are essentially bulletproof. I currently drive 2 completely different Aisin transmission models on 2 different vehicle manufacturers with completely different powertrains and they are truly great units. I can't commend Toyota on any other part of their business.

[Ren]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Mine shifts smoothly most of the times. In fact I took a 400 mile trip on Sunday and it shifted flawlessly most of the time, even during a 2 hr/15 mile traffic jam in NYC. Occasionally I could feel a slightly 1-2 and 2-1 bump, but overall it now feels much better than 2 weeks ago. (Maybe I wasn't pushing it)

Anyways I have a VIDA DICE on order. Should be having it in about a week or so. I plan to do a transmission adaptation once I have it. If that doesn't fix it, I plan to swap the valve body with a rebuilt one from Ream Man ($450)

Once I'm over that I plan to do a timing belt/tensioner change, tighten up the axle nuts (if applicable), fix some minor squeaks from near the shifter lever and the luggage area (a panel is missing its screw).

[Volvoholic]

Sounds like you've got it covered lol let us know if nothing feels better when you're all done.

[ethansdad]

Valve body job can be tedious, but not that bad, took me a Sunday.

[Ren]

Alright here is the update.

I bought myself an old XP laptop off of ebay for $75 and a Vida DiCE clone from Aliexpress. Installed 2012D version, but the DiCE could not be detected by the system. Contacted the vendor who suggested uninstalling 2012D and installing 2012A. I took a shortcut and just installed the DiCe drivers from 2012A and it worked. The DiCE is now seen by the system. Updated the firmware and I'm good.

So two weeks ago I hooked up the DiCE and set the tranny to adaptation mode. I was expecting a 45m-1hr procedure. But the whole thing took me about 2.5 hrs. i had a hard time getting the 3-4 adaption at 1400 rpms. The slightly hilly terrain and the tailgating traffic didnt help either. 1800 was quick and smooth. 4-5 and 5-4 were tricky as well. But it was the garage shift N-D, that was the trickiest. Anyways finally got it done.

The shifting issues are now completely gone. I havent had any harsh 1-2 or 2-1 shifts since. The garage shifts are also smooth, except for a busted mount which clicks.
I will update this thread in a few months.

And BTW I have about 4oz of seafoam transtune added to the oil when I did the flush.

[Volvoholic]

Huh...just had to really clean the gunk out of it and get it to adapt again. Volvo computers bug the crap out of me.

[Ren]

Ok here is my latest update. Although things improved quite a lot after the flush/fill and seafoam transtune, we still experienced a few harsh shifts when hot. Usually during heavy stop-go traffics and most evident during a recent trip to the Shenandoah national park in VA; a 105 mile slow cruise with lots of ascents and descents on the winding hills. Experienced some harsh shifts during the hill climbs. Checked the fluids after getting home and it was not the healthy bright pink anymore. By this time the car had about 3000 miles post flush, so I wasnt it expecting it to be the bright pink of the fresh new fluid.

Anyways I decided to change the valve body. Got a rebuilt one from Ream Man for $450. They were fast! Ordered it on a Monday and had it in my hands by Wednesday. Anyways the unit I got has a small chip on the edge of the gasket. Probably not an issue at all. A worry wart that I'm, I contacted Cory at Ream, who patiently explained my why it shouldnt be an issue at all since all the VBs were tested. He offered to send me a replacement anyways to keep me satisfied. To which I agreed. I got the replacement last monday, just before the Jul 4 holidays. Changed it out last weekend, following the writeup/procedures made by Astro14. Was a much easier job compared to changing the timing chains on my Mazda. The whole process took me about 7-8 hrs. I'm slow btw!!! The VB was changed, fluid flushed and tranny readapted and it runs like new. Buttery smooth shifts!

To those who might be interested, the Valve Body Casting code is 9168. Letter code B. According to Ream Man, this is the same unit used in Nissan Maxima ('05 up)

AW55-50 / AW55-51SN (NISSAN 2005-2006)
SKU: 59947M

Will post pics of the VB pulled out of my car alongside the rebuilt one soon. Also thought of sharing a lesson learned. I used to the Volvo style chemical gasket (anaerobic gasket). I bright girly pink. But its not an RTV silicone. Keep this in mind. So when applying, use a foam roller or brush and apply a thin coating over one of the clean and oil free surfaces. Again the surfaces must be clean and oil free, preferably cleaned using a brake cleaner. If you apply like an RTV, the thing will take weeks to cure. It seals in the presence of metals like Aluminum, copper or steel AND in the absence of oxygen. So any extra that oozes out would just remain liquid and will not cure. I didnt know this. I applied like an RTV, a thin bead (~2mm) fortunately. The sealant that oozed out is still liquid around the perimeter of the pan. I really hope the sealant that oozed out on the inside it doesnt get dislodged inside the tranny and clog any passages.keeping my fingers crossed.

And lastly, please excuse if my description lacks clarity or is poorly written. English is not my mother tongue and I put things in the order the way I had in top of my head (mumbling out loud, sort of).

[JRL]

Your English and your writing is better than many who's primary language IS English!