2001 XC70 Transmision problems

**Aussie2001** · 10-04-2010, 04:07 AM

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info, I'm about to order the Seafoam Transtune and a magnafine filter from the US to see if that helps.

As an update, I've been following my nose since my last post, and may have sniffed something else out...

Another symptom has become clear - sluggish acceleration in low gears and when going up hill.

I discovered that a dirty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor can cause this. Not only that, but a faulty MAF is also associated with transmission problems...

I asked my local mechanic to scan for error codes today, and he picked up two.

530D and 0100. His scanner wasn't really geared for Volvos, but after a bit of searching on the net, I found that 530D is equivalent to P1618 - which can indicate transmissions problems. Okay no surprise there... But then I found that PO0100 (0100?) indicates a faulty MAF sensor.

Okay, so now it seems pretty clear that I have a problem with my MAF sensor.

After reading the following thread for Passats:

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/ar.../t-285145.html

...the info provided by Howard on the MAF part of this thread:

http://www.freewebs.com/howardsvolvos/engine.htm

...and finally (I don't know how relevant this is) this Ford Expedition thread:

"The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the mass of air flowing into the engine. The MAF sensor output signal is used by the powertrain control module to calculate injector pulse width. For transmission strategies the MAF sensor is used to regulate Electronic Pressure Control (EPC), shift and torque converter clutch scheduling."

...I figure it may be possible that a faulty MAF sensor could also be causing my shifting problems.

One can only hope...

I may be clutching at straws, but I'll be cleaning the MAF sensor tomorrow, and if that doesn't help, will replace asap. I'll let you all know how I go, but would greatly appreciate any feedback - particularly if anyone has experienced shifting problems due to a dirty/faulty MAF sensor.

Wish me luck

**howardc64** · 10-04-2010, 08:06 AM

If you are going to put in magnafine... do this

- take the hose out (connection to transmission is easily removable)
- figure out the straightest part to cut a piece of the hose and substitute magnefine in there

If you don't take the hose out and try to install it in the car, it is easy to mess up (like I did). ATF will be all over your hands and slippery. With the tight space, it seems impossible to get a really tight connection. There won't be enough room to work with to make a clean cut etc..

Haven't looked recently but maybe taking the airbox out would give more room. But easiest is to take the hose out to install it.

**RockitShip** · 10-04-2010, 09:31 PM

Your not grasping at straws IMHO. A faulty/dirty MAFS can in fact play havoc on when the trans. shifts... all tied together via car ECU talking to trans. ECU. (It could be exaggerating a small problem).

**sjonnie** · 10-04-2010, 10:40 PM

Originally Posted by howardc64

If you are going to put in magnafine... do this

- take the hose out (connection to transmission is easily removable)
- figure out the straightest part to cut a piece of the hose and substitute magnefine in there

I don't recommend that but then we all do things differently. Free the connection to the oil cooler, catch the little ATF that drains from the top of the oil cooler with a rag. Cut the top off the hose about 2" down. Install the filter into the lower section of the hose, add the top section and reconnect to the oil cooler. All done.

My replacement filter arrived from ebay today, going to cut open my old filter to see how much crud is inside. I'll post a pic if there's anything interesting.

Jerrymcc · 10-07-2010, 02:03 PM

Attached find notes on adaption without factory help...

Jerry

Subject:- Adaptation procedure

Model & year:- 2001 S60, V70, V70 XC

Description: This transmission relies on adaptive data to properly adjust the shift pressure. If the adaptation is not complete, it may result in one or more of the following:

• Harsh flare. Engine RPM will increase during a shift. This symptom feel like the transmission has lost drive. It usually happens during the 2-3 shift.
• Harsh down shift. Bumpy down shift when the gas pedal is odd (Zero).
• Harsh Garage shift. Sever bump when engaging forward or reverse from park or neutral.
• Harsh engagement control. After coming to a complete stop in drive, with the foot on the brake, the TCM waits for 2 seconds and then disengages drive to reduce emissions. This disengagement is not usually felt by the driver. If adaptation is not complete, then a “thud” will be felt. A harsh re-engagement will also be felt.

Service. The TCM can sometimes take many miles to fully adapt. If you do not have access to the factory tester or Volvo VADIS, then you might try the following.

1. Drive the car forward in the “D” range at about 5 mph (8kph) and bring to a gentle stop. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times.
2. With the engine at idle and your foot on the brake, shift from “N” to “D”. Wait for about 30 seconds. Release the brake. Repeat this procedure for 10 cycles.

If the above does not cure the fault, you will need to get access to a factory tester to reset the adaptation. Remember though that the TCM is constantly updating so not every shift will be the same.

**nwxc70** · 10-07-2010, 02:17 PM

To update my previous post, my car no longer clunks into Drive from Park or Reverse. The detergent and flush done my the dealer (his detergent, don't know what it was, but cost me ~$25) using a total of 8 quarts of my Mobil 3309 did the trick. I am told the tranny was checked and needed to software updates and there were no codes.

**Aussie2001** · 10-08-2010, 06:01 AM

Great result NW, it gives me hope!!

Fantastic post Jerry, many thanks for this. Looking forward to running through the adaptation process this weekend...

Thanks RockitShip - I've read that a faulty MAF sensor can be linked with the flaring I'm having, particularly between 2nd and 3rd. The screws securing the MAF sensor require Torx TX tools to remove (5 point Torx rather than the usual 6 point - also used by many airbags on modern cars apparently), and they were difficult to track down. Anyone in Australia can try Total Tools - $45 for a 1/4 inch set.

Having at crack at the MAF sensor this weekend.

A few bottles of Seafoam Transtune are probably somewhere over the Pacific as we speak, and I've found the Magnefine filters locally. Thanks Howard and sjonnie for the installation instructions - sounds do-able

Giving the tranny every chance... Will update again soon...

Thanks again everyone

**skibo** · 10-09-2010, 12:36 AM

I'm planning to use the Gibbons Method to change ATF this weekend. I got the tubing kit from IPD and the instructions say to disconnect the hose at the bottom on the radiator, although the photo and notes posted to this forum say to disconnect the top hose. Why the difference? What is the direction of the flow through the cooler - top to bottom or the opposite?

Oh - got 14 quarts of the Toyota T-IV fluid for $5/qt - its a little troubling that it doesnt' say 3309 anywhere on the bottle, but I have faith.

**sjonnie** · 10-09-2010, 01:45 AM

Originally Posted by skibo

I'm planning to use the Gibbons Method to change ATF this weekend. I got the tubing kit from IPD and the instructions say to disconnect the hose at the bottom on the radiator, although the photo and notes posted to this forum say to disconnect the top hose. Why the difference? What is the direction of the flow through the cooler - top to bottom or the opposite?

Oh - got 14 quarts of the Toyota T-IV fluid for $5/qt - its a little troubling that it doesnt' say 3309 anywhere on the bottle, but I have faith.

IPD's instuctions say the top hose.
http://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/sku_files/7945_INST.PDF
That's the return line, with a radiator it's always best to feed in from the bottom and out from the top. If you disconnect the bottom hose all the ATF will drain from the cooler, which you may or may not dislike

Toyota T-IV is fine, don't worry.