Spark plug change - tips / hints 01 v70xc

[jmoser]

Just did my spark plugs on 2001 V70XC at 30K miles.

Tools needed:
Conventional ratcheting style wrench with cushioned spark plug socket, metric sockets, and torx bits.  Socket drive extension[s] needed for the deep plug tunnels.

Steps:
1) Remove black cosmetic cover panel[s] from top of engine.
2) Disconnect wire harness from coil and remove coil (one screw - pull straight up)
3) Remove old plug
4) Install new plug
5) Replace coil and reconnect wire harness
5a) Repeat steps 2-5 for each cylinder
6) Reinstall cosmetic cover panel[s]

hints:

Remove the top cosmetic cover: to access the 2 torx screws that are directly under the turbo pipe, it is necessary to move the pipe but not remove it completely.  I removed the two pipe mount screws near the front of the car, then loosened the hose clamp behind the engine. HINT: use a socket on the hose clamp - not a screw driver! I then used a long wooden stick (1/2 inch dowel x 3 ft long) to wiggle / lever the rear male pipe end up out of the rubber female housing.    Now the turbo pipe is easy to move around and get to the torx screws.

My OEM plugs' threads were starting to rust - sounded nasty when loosening them for removal.  I used hi-temp never sieze on the new plug threads.

I also used dielectric grease on the new plugs before installing, I stuck each one into the rubber coil boot before installation to get some grease inside the boot - some will get wiped off the plug by the tight fitting cushioned plug socket.

HINT: remove the coils and plugs 1 at a time - the coils are are oriented differently to each cylinder so as to make the wire harness reach the connecter properly.   In any case you want to minimize the time each cylinder spends open with no plug - dust and dirt can and will fall in there.

Make sure to CAREFULLY start the new plug threads by hand using the socket extention as your handle.  Cross thread these and you are screwed.  If you can't get them started with one finger and thumb then pull out and start over.

Use a torque wrench!  I used 16 N-M based on the plug data I had for aluminum heads and plug thread size.  Get the right torque for your car!  The never sieze also helps to ensure 'correct' torque reading on your wrench ( less friction.)

I bought Bosch Platinum plugs from IPD - they actually recommended the standard Bosch plug (copper) for less money. IPD says some people have had rough running with the Pt plugs - I think this may be fuel related - California does use different gas than other states ('reformulated' for lower emissions.)  I have to say that after the change the car runs perfect - my wife agrees that it may even run better than before, so I give the Pt plugs a recommendation.

No matter what the dealer or factory says, based on the rusty threads I would not let the stock plugs go beyond 30K miles.

Please remember that my car is a 2001 V70XC US model (turbo.)  Other models / engines will likely differ.

[coastal]

Excellent and very thougtful how-to description and tips jmoser.. thanks a ton! Will definitely help a lot of us out when the time comes to make the change  

[Raynald]

Coastal, maybe an article for the "howto" section ?

[barrysharp]

Who ever does this next MUST take some pics to add to the "how to" section.  PLEASE - as I like pictures and they help enormously along with the words of wisdom.

[SpudRacer]

Note to the wise from an auto mechanic turned 14 year Jet Engine mechanic, ALL stated torque values are "wet" torque values unless otherwise stated. That means that unless stated in the instruction manual, all threads should be lubricated prior to applying a final torque. Any fitting that it torqued "dry" will be under-torqued with an increased risk of coming loose.

Anti-seize compound on spark-plug threads is always an excellent idea which not only makes later plug removal less nerve-wracking if it doesn't budge when trying to break it loose, but also decreases the risk of crossthreading the plug when installing it. But PLEASE make sure you avoid coating the first thread closest to the electrode, this should remain dry. Applying antiseize here may result in some of the compound finding its way into the cylinder, though unlikely to cause any serious problems.

Just some mechanic's tips for those who's specialty lies elsewhere.

Respectfully,

Spud

[Willy]

Hello,
Since my car is quite new, I haven't felt the need to take a look at the spark plugs yet  
But since most spark plugs are mounted in a cavity, I wonder why there was no tip to blow out this cavities before the plugs are removed, I know I always do!
Greetings,
Willy

[jmoser]

Hi Willy -

Good advice, but the XC's cosmetic covers do a very nice job of keeping dirt, etc. out of the plug cavities.  The coils and wire connecters were spotless when I removed the covers.

You could use a narrow shop-vac nozzle and stick it right over the old plug to suck up and dirt that sits way down there.

I used to have a motorcycle that had a deep seated plug that was impossible to get clean first - I used to drip a few drops of oil down there and then use Q tips to mop it up!  The oil 'wetted' the remaining dirt particles so that they would not sift around and fall into the cylinder.

[littlewaywelt]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (SpudRacer @ Sep. 02 2003,20:00)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Just some mechanic&#39;s tips for those who&#39;s specialty lies elsewhere.[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
That may be the nicest way anyone has ever referred to those of us lacking automotive skills. &nbsp;

['01 XC]

Very COOL post.... I am very impressed with our (new to us) &#39;01 XC and even more impressed with the owners of other XC&#39;s that I have read on this forum&#33;&#33;

Excellent Cars AND Excellent Owners as well..... &nbsp;Thanks for all the great tips. &nbsp;This forum link is definitely on my browsers &quot;Favorites&quot; list&#33;&#33;

Thanks again &nbsp; &nbsp;

[wkinn]

Its seem strange that the my 2001 XC neededs the spark plugs change at 30,000 miles?

I think the 02's and newer call for the change at 45,000 miles does anyone know why the 2001 need a change at 30,000?