Whjat is "Genuine Coolant"? 1999 V70 CX AWD

[mamdali]

I just bought a used 1999 v70 XC AWD Volvo with 89000 miles on it. Is
using the Volvo 'genuine' coolant a MUST? Can someone explain the pros
and cons of going 'standard' versus using he recommended genuine
stuff? What's special about it anyway?

I just went to Firestone and asked them to top fluids and do oil change but asked them not to touch the coolant although they said not to worry about it.(thoughts?). Do I ALWAYS have to take the car to the dealer for simple stuff like this?

BTW, I'm sure this has been asked before but the 'search' in this forum
didn't return proper answers. So apologies in advance.

Thanks!
Mo

[RedXC]

Late reply. Does not matter what type of coolant, just follow the recommend type of non-volvo brand coolant. Best to bring to a Volvo specialist shop to ease the price of dealership repairs.

[ebrauer]

Ive topped off my coolant with regular auto parts coolant and I havent had any problems. It can be 95 degrees outside and drive for 300 miles and my coolant levels never change and the engine temperature is always par. I dont think its a major issue from what I've read on the forum.

[Tick]

I thought the volvo coolant had more to do with corrosion than cooling efficiency.

[knucklebuster]

I like Zerex G-05. Recommended for Volvos. See the chart in pdf. Coolant (but mainly the corrosion inhibitor) needs to be renewed periodically regardless of what dealers may say. These are the same crowd who recommend long oil change intervals, but we know different. It is about scoring points on cost of ownership in the showroom. Combine worn out corrosion inhibitors with a minor electrical problem and the aluminum in your cooling system will disolve, i.e. blown heater core. I sh!t you not. Coolant will carry an electrical charge - measure using your multimeter, drop one lead into the overflow tank and the other on the battery -ve. This phenomenon is universal to all cars, but those with aluminum engines, rads, etc require lower voltage to start disolving parts (reverse electroplating). Of course, electrical problems like bad grounds need to be fixed, but fresh coolant will protect your car.

http://www.completeradiators.com/articles/34.htm (article on electrolysis. I've seen a few different voltage values quoted for aluminum engines)

Bottom line is change your coolant every couple of years.

(this is the coolant link)
http://www.valvoline.com/zerex/pdf/Z...d=1B5D1AEA1AFC

[okihiro]

sorry to revive an old thread, but as i have been working on the engine, i find that i now need to replace the coolant. zerex g-05 seem to be recommended. also, looking at fcp groton's web site, i see they sell pentosin brand coolant. is there a preferred coolant brand out there.
also, how does one flush the coolant? just let it out and add new? or is it more complicated?

[JRL]

Oh for God's sake go to NAPA, Autozone or Pep Boys
No one buys coolant on line, and really any quality BLUE 50/50 will do

[instarx]

I'm with JRL. Just buy good quality antifreeze locally.

If you change your coolant yourself be careful in how you handle it because ethylene glycol is a poison with the bad characteristic that it tastes sweet. Children and pets will drink it in a second. So no open containers and no dumping it on the ground. It doesn't take much - just a taste will put a child in the hospital and a lick will kill a pet. To give you an idea how toxic it is, about half the adults who swallow a quarter cup ethylene glycol die from it (and the rest are definitely not healthy).