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Current Fleet:
2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)
GAUGE
The tank has a little over a quarter tank of fuel (according to the dash). I believe the gauge works well, since the issue before the no-start problem always occurs, after the car has been driven for some miles. So, the gauge should be working.
PUMP
Found some methods of pumping fuel out to a container. Siphoning is out of the question. A logical method would be a (new) manual/hand held fluid pump for a one-time use, or using the tank's fuel pump method. Just found this YouTube video
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxyfsfIhBl4.
- The other option is to use the car's fuel pump, which I hope is working well.
Interesting the tank does not have a drain plug.
Last edited by Oka; 12-07-2019 at 03:32 PM.
Unfortunetly in my case, I can duplicate the problem alright but that would be paying to get it towed home, everytime. So, I would keep troubleshooting till I feel I find the issue. I was able to drive the car into the garage (with some stutering of course).
I can't try the gauge inside the car since I cannot drive the car long enough for such test.
One question I have always wanted to ask is, when I re-scan the car, should I clear the existing scan to start with a new one or "Update" (Add) to the previous (Existing) scan?
I have only replaced the obvious parts so far:
- Throttle unit (XeMODeX) - (Glad I replaced this. The car drives better and quicker)
- Outside Temperature Sensors (which fixed my non functioning dash temperature non-reading
- Spart Plugs (Pre gapped)
- MAF (Bosch)
I will have to remove the hose to the ETM to check it again. It was a pain to take out or in, but I need to check to eliminate that there is not hose breakage.
Before I installed it to the new ETM, I checked the hose. But need to really check very carefully when doing a vacuum leat check on all the other hoses.
I will go back to VIDA to look for suggestions.
The car has a little over a quarter tank of fuel.
One more thing. I have already took the time to re-read the posts, made lots of notes and already started gathering information and working on the trouble shooting from way back in November. There's a lot for me to do, I am patient enough. The family logistics with work and school kids kinda slows me down. Am on it all.
Thank you all for your patience.
After scanning you should print the summary and leave the codes to be able to easily get to the diagnostic suggestions, then after fixing (or checking suggestions) erase. Run car and do a full update to see what codes come back.
If it were me I would put a few gallons of gas in the car and see what happens. I have seen many lying gas gauges - and many fooled techs (including myself) who spend hours going down the wrong path only to eventually diagnose a faulty gauge or broken pickup or contaminated fuel.
I had wanted to know about the best VIDA practice. At the moment, I should use whatever code it currently has for the troubleshooting.
If the car already has some issues, it would not be logical to erase all codes and re-scan it, since some codes would have been reported during driving. Right?
The other VIDA question is, the DiCE tool does not have to be connected to the vehicle to trouble shoot suggestions; the codes are already embedded in to the database in VIDA. Right?
I'll get more fuel in the tank shortly before going back to start my findings.
Thanks for the recommendations.
Found something interesting. When I went to remove the CEM, it was just hanging there, not hooked up into it's cradle and snapped in. I wonder why. Maybe the previous owner must have worked up there and did not snap in the unit properly. It's supposed to snap in with a click and help tight up there.
For the relay, the one I removed has single digit numbered pins. I have always seen the dual-digit pin numbers. I went online to verify the relays, they are all double-digit number. Mine has #1,2,3,4,5; what are they corresponded to the two-digit numbers.
Thanks
Found the pin number answer here:
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html
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