2008 Alternator Amperage

**CVOLVO** · 08-30-2018, 02:02 AM

I'm having charging issues with my 2008 3.2 engine. Before I remove the old alternator, is there a VIN code or label telling me what is the amperage. I suspect it's 150 amps. I realize the replacement should have the drive gear installed. Are there any other tips or a recommended Canadian supplier? Thanks.

**hoonk** · 08-30-2018, 05:05 AM

Originally Posted by CVOLVO

I'm having charging issues with my 2008 3.2 engine. is there a label telling me what is the amperage. I realize the replacement should have the drive gear installed.

There is a label on the alternator with the amp output. What issues? If not charging at all have seen the one way clutch go bad and loosen the drive gear (not the pulley on the front of the alternator). When that happens the alternator does not spin at all and does not charge - (and the alternator is not bad it's just not spinning!)

If it's not charging make sure the alternator is actually spinning.

**CVOLVO** · 09-01-2018, 05:52 AM

Initial symptom was car would not start; numerous diagnostic messages on display, key fob could not even be removed. Then instrument display went "dark". OMG, first instinct was not to panic. With 49 years of Volvo repair experience (not with a FURD), most problems are not as serious as they first appear. Also, I was able to rely on my equally old Geely Mk 2 (a.k.a. City Golf) for transportation. I followed my customary rational problem solving technique (kepner-Trrgoe).

Before taking any repair action, I initially try to isolate the problem. This involved my initial posting that deduced it was either a failed battery or the alternator finally gave out. I did locate several good YouTube videos on how to remove the alternator and check for the loose drive coupling or worn mini-belt. I did recharge the battery (CTC 4 year old replacement) and initially tightened the terminal posts. The engine did start and I first confirmed the alternator was indeed spinning (located below the intake manifold). I used a battery voltage and load tester to confirm the battery was charged to 12 volts and with the car started, the alternator was charging around 14 volts. The only possible obvious problems were a marginal battery or a terminal connection problem.

I took the battery to CTC where they tested it for free and confirmed it was OK. The cold-cranking amps were slightly lower than when it was new, but this was expected. I removed any acid corrosion from the battery box and used emery paper to clean the battery terminals and inside both cable connectors. Today I will drive it on a 50km round trip to confirm there was no problem, bringing my jumper cable just to be safe.

My final advice; follow a technique to isolate and identify the actual problem. Lastly if you have the experience and confidence; never take your car to a garage as the first step.

Cam

**CVOLVO** · 09-27-2018, 11:58 AM

Naturally when we needed the XC70, it failed to crank over and start once more. Since there was an appointment to attend, the trusty, reliable (wife hated) Geely Mk 2 had to come again to the rescue.

I put on the 40A charger before leaving and when I returned, the XC70 fired up. After turning off the ignition, I heard two tiny motor like, quiet alarm like sounds - one from the driver's side engine and the other from what might have been the right rear emergency brake motor or possibly the gas tank recycling system (don't know if there's an electric motor nearby?). With the engine running, a charging load tester shows 14 charging volts and battery in the OK green zone under load.

Question - if after letting the car stand for 2-3 days, might this be enough to drain the battery to not allow the engine to start? One other possibly related symptom is the check engine on with the OBDII code 0455 - major gas re-cycling leak (possibly a damaged hose?).

Thanks..... Cam