New to turbo

[Thang Vora]

My 07 XC70 is run good, but it seem lost the pepy when accellerating; Here the problems: I replace the reg. air filter with an cool air induct filter then pour a botle of fuel system and injection cleaner in full gas tank, it was run good untill I got on the highway at 70+mph suddenly the engine rumble and hesitated, but just for a second, then it run OK again untill we got to destination about an hour drive, couple hrs latter I started the car, it started right up, but just for 15-20 seconds it shutted down, I kept restart, it's start but did not hold the Idle, I have to rev. the engine up to 3K rpm for couple of minute then the engine hold the idle and we able to return home, the problem still repeat since. the check engine light is on, I scan with OBDII it said engine ran rich, and miss fire cyl. 1&2, I check the spark plugs and ign. coils they OK, replace the fuel injections, I start the car next morning, still not hold the idle till engine warm up, once it ran it's ran good, but sitll feel lack the pepy of turbo. I have been work with my cars for a long time, but this is the first car I had with turbo, so here are few questions:
1-How to tell if the turbo is not work properly?
2-Could it be a stuck butterfly in trottol body?
3-If the turbo is not run, can I re-route air intake to by-pass the turbo? The turbo air intake route is very long, if I use K&N air filter go dirrect to trottle body it will be much shorter
4-Will ECU relearn the air intake without turbo or I have to reprogram it(which I don't know how)

[Astro14]

"Cold air induction system" is complete waste of time...and your money...

So, let's see...

1. Car was running well.
2. you put this piece of junk on your car.
3. Car doesn't run well.

And you think it's the turbo?

Sheesh...

To answer your questions:
1. install a boost gauge
2. No. The engine wouldn't run
3. Absolutely not.
4. Absolutely not.

My advice: put the stock intake back on. Replace the MAF that you probably damaged during the installation.

If you want more power out of the car:
1. install new sparkplugs, air filter (using the factory box), fuel filter
2. clean the throttle body.
3. Get a tune.

[nickbw]

"Cold air induction system" is complete waste of time...and your money...

So, let's see...

1. Car was running well.
2. you put this piece of junk on your car.
3. Car doesn't run well.

And you think it's the turbo?

Sheesh...

To answer your questions:
1. install a boost gauge
2. No. The engine wouldn't run
3. Absolutely not.
4. Absolutely not.

My advice: put the stock intake back on. Replace the MAF that you probably damaged during the installation.

If you want more power out of the car:
1. install new sparkplugs, air filter (using the factory box), fuel filter
2. clean the throttle body.
3. Get a tune.

I second Astro's comment but would go further: if you do not know what you're doing - leave well alone!

[Thang Vora]

Thanks Mr. Astro14, I was busy to investigate the problem of my engine and have no time to reply to your unknowlege comment:
1st- I see you're OEM worshipper; Just remember all car manufacturers designed the components and contract with suppliers to make them, so 75% parts in your car were made by some body else; For a 10+ yrs old car do not waste money to the OEM and many after market component were improve car's performance, just have to find the reputation after market suppliers.
2nd-Your reply show that you don't know any thing about airfilter, turbo and engine performance, I have to educate you about them:
-Air filter is to prevent the solids to get in to combustion chamber will damage the engine, air filter was placed outer most of intake system before MAF sensor and turbo, many turbo sytem used in combind with cold air in duct filter because it help the the turbo shuck more air in better and it's reuseable, inturn cost less in the long way, my engine problem doesn't related to that "piece of junk", the eng doesn't are what kind of filter you used, it works better if it breath better.
As I've said when I drove high speed on the highway the car was rumble and shudder for couple of second then keep running well, but after stop it hard to start and not hold the idle till engine warmed up, once it run, every thing seem normal but the acceleration doesn't feel peppy as before, that make me suspect the turbo is not work or stuck throttle body. I don't need to install boost gauge to find out if turbo is working or not, just remove the air filter have some one help start the engine, put your hand cover the intake pipe to feel how strong turbo suck the air in, but the engine not hold the idle mean the air is not going in the combustion chambers.
Now the true review: Just as I ready to remove the turbo pipe to remove intake manifold to check on throttle body, I found out the rubber hose at the inter cool was disconnected; So the air from turbo didn't go in the engine and it can not pull enough air in through the intercool to hold the idle, this give me the answer to my own questions:
The engine can run with air intake dirrect to throttle body, bypass the turbo with out reprogram ECU, of course less power.
Afer put the hose back and tighten up, the engine started right up and idle was stay and smooth as silk, test drive on the highway the engine pull up strong and smoothly.
You said:
" If you want more power out of the car:
1. install new sparkplugs, air filter (using the factory box), fuel filter" This indicated you don't know what you say about; Replace spark plugs and air filter only help to get better fuel economy, if they give more power(?) it's very little, it's not noticeable, I still used the cold air induction filter and enjoy to hear the air rushed through it.
You kept saying put back the factory air intake box, infact factory air filter box is more restricted air intake than the cold air induction filter.
SO! Here's my advice: Don't waste money to pay over price for OEM parts, it's an old and high mileage car, not a colectible classic, buy after market or used parts to keep the car running.
Final: Don't say the thing that you don't know.

[BillAileo]

Thang, Good luck with your car but I have to note that I have always found Astro's comments helpful and well worth considering.

[Tahoe_XC]

Thang, Good luck with your car but I have to note that I have always found Astro's comments helpful and well worth considering.

Bump! One day Thang will learn and appreciate.... Or not?

[Willy]

Bump! One day Thang will learn and appreciate.... Or not?

Perhaps, although he has a rather peculiar way of thanking someone trying to help him...

[JRL]

He hasn't a clue or talent...end of thread
Good luck pal, you're going to need it!

[Astro14]

Thanks Mr. Astro14, I was busy to investigate the problem of my engine and have no time to reply to your unknowlege comment:
1st- I see you're OEM worshipper; Just remember all car manufacturers designed the components and contract with suppliers to make them, so 75% parts in your car were made by some body else; For a 10+ yrs old car do not waste money to the OEM and many after market component were improve car's performance, just have to find the reputation after market suppliers.
2nd-Your reply show that you don't know any thing about airfilter, turbo and engine performance, I have to educate you about them:
-Air filter is to prevent the solids to get in to combustion chamber will damage the engine, air filter was placed outer most of intake system before MAF sensor and turbo, many turbo sytem used in combind with cold air in duct filter because it help the the turbo shuck more air in better and it's reuseable, inturn cost less in the long way, my engine problem doesn't related to that "piece of junk", the eng doesn't are what kind of filter you used, it works better if it breath better.
As I've said when I drove high speed on the highway the car was rumble and shudder for couple of second then keep running well, but after stop it hard to start and not hold the idle till engine warmed up, once it run, every thing seem normal but the acceleration doesn't feel peppy as before, that make me suspect the turbo is not work or stuck throttle body. I don't need to install boost gauge to find out if turbo is working or not, just remove the air filter have some one help start the engine, put your hand cover the intake pipe to feel how strong turbo suck the air in, but the engine not hold the idle mean the air is not going in the combustion chambers.
Now the true review: Just as I ready to remove the turbo pipe to remove intake manifold to check on throttle body, I found out the rubber hose at the inter cool was disconnected; So the air from turbo didn't go in the engine and it can not pull enough air in through the intercool to hold the idle, this give me the answer to my own questions:
The engine can run with air intake dirrect to throttle body, bypass the turbo with out reprogram ECU, of course less power.
Afer put the hose back and tighten up, the engine started right up and idle was stay and smooth as silk, test drive on the highway the engine pull up strong and smoothly.
You said:
" If you want more power out of the car:
1. install new sparkplugs, air filter (using the factory box), fuel filter" This indicated you don't know what you say about; Replace spark plugs and air filter only help to get better fuel economy, if they give more power(?) it's very little, it's not noticeable, I still used the cold air induction filter and enjoy to hear the air rushed through it.
You kept saying put back the factory air intake box, infact factory air filter box is more restricted air intake than the cold air induction filter.
SO! Here's my advice: Don't waste money to pay over price for OEM parts, it's an old and high mileage car, not a colectible classic, buy after market or used parts to keep the car running.
Final: Don't say the thing that you don't know.

I was not the one with a broken car.

You are.

You broke it, from your description, so you really are not in a position to “educate” anyone.

I’ll stop trying to help you.

Good luck.

[Astro14]

For everyone else who might be wondering about cold air intakes...

A cold air intake is a good idea, particularly on a turbocharged car, to increase the density of the air going into the engine. The OEM Air intake IS, in point of fact, a cold air intake, drawing air from just in front of the radiator. The preponderance of after market “cold air intakes” are, in fact, “hot air intakes” because the cone filter isn’t provided with a good cold air path. So, for only a few hundred dollars, you can get an aftermarket intake that fails to work as well as the OEM set up. It sounds loud, because the induction noise isn’t muffled as well. But noise isn’t always power.

A good quality Mann, or Mahle, filter for this car is about $17. So the “reusable” nature of the aftermarket is specious, at best.

I used to run K&N air filters on a variety of other cars. “Best you can get”. “More power” “Better flow” “Reusable”...so much marketing hype...I was young...

However used oil analysis on one of those cars (also, a Volvo) showed a spike in silicon with the K&N. The power increase was barely noticeable, if it even existed. but silicon in your oil comes primarily from silicates...sand...in other words. Not OK in a street car. Sure wasn’t OK when I was operating on dirt roads. Turns out the most efficient air filtration is a good quality, like Mann, or Mahle, paper filter.

As an aside, used oil analysis on my XC, the T5 wagon, and the twin-turbo Mercedes, all of which run Mahle or Mann paper filters, show ZERO silicon and remarkably low wear metals (Fe, Al, Pb). Those filters work well. Further, you can’t get a filter for a 1932 Packard anymore, which were oil bath, so a K&N cone filter sits on the Detroit Lubricator Model 51 updraft carburetor, to feed the mighty straight eight, with its 6:1 compression...I’m not opposed to cone filters, or K&N, but I am experienced enough that marketing hype fails to impress...

Further, the oiled filters are notorious for fouling the MAF sensor when they’re over oiled.

The increased engine wear from sand and dust ingestion, coupled with potential MAF issues, makes it hard to justify an aftermarket “cold air” intake that generally reduces performance through hot air anyway.

They do, however, excel at two things:
1. Increasing induction noise.
2. Separating fools from their money.