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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,119

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hoonk View Post
    IMHO the Only way to retime Volvo cams after cylinder head removal and installation is with the special tool that hold the cams in the correct position. Then align the belt according to the instructions in VIDA. The instructions are different for various years.

    I have not seen a bad crank sensor on a 850/960/and newer car. (still have 2 850/960 sensors in stock for the past 18 years) The b230 sensors (240/740/940) were notoriously bad, but perhaps things are different in colder climates from where I am.

    You had a head "resurfaced" - When an overhead cam head warps it warps the bottom (head gasket surface) and the top (cam bearing journals) - IMHO the proper way is to have the head "straightened" so the cam are rotating in a straight bore, not one banana shaped. Then perform a valve job. And since the lifters adjust the valve clearance - do a valve adjustment.
    This.

    Get a subscription to one of the services, or buy a VIDA, to follow the cam timing procedure. Basically, your intake cam is easy, lock it with the tool, align pulley to the timing mark, tighten the three bolts. Exhaust/VVT requires locking cam, rotating VVT clockwise (I think), aligning to timing mark and tightening bolts.

    I used this tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I have the cam locking tool, but I'm curious if now the VVT hub might be rotating too far?? it seems like normally the VVT gear is supposed to move like 1 1/2 teeth before locking.... however, mine moves closer to 3 teeth before the VVT locks

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,119

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jslice View Post
    I have the cam locking tool, but I'm curious if now the VVT hub might be rotating too far?? it seems like normally the VVT gear is supposed to move like 1 1/2 teeth before locking.... however, mine moves closer to 3 teeth before the VVT locks
    That seems about right. It was quite a bit of play when I did it.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I downloaded and installed vadis 2005a so I have a better understanding of the timing gear. I think I may remove the cams again and reset the VCT gear to see if anything changes. Also, is there anyway I can perhaps remove the crank sensor to observe the point on the flywheel where the magnet detects the position?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,119

    Default

    You don't need to remove the cams, just lock them in place again with the tool, then position the crank with the tool...you have to remove the starter to get that part of the tool installed, but it assures that the crank is positioned correctly.

    Crank position sensor may, or may not, have anything to do with crank position at this point, so skip it and use the tool as designed.

    Everything will be correctly aligned at that point.

    Then you can move the VVT cam to the right position- when the cam is locked, you rotate the VVT cam to align with the mark on it with the notch in the timing cover, then tighten the three bolts to specified torque to lock the VVT in place on the camshaft. Tighten the bolts as described in the procedure after aligning everything, and the VVT is set, no need to monkey with it further.

    Did you follow the procedure, or are you making this up as you go along?
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

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