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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Eastern, MA, USA
    Posts
    216

    Exclamation No start after doing PCV - connection, or...?

    Can't figure this one out, has to be a connection somewhere, but the car started fine for about five days since I did the work.

    When the key is turned, lights come on, but no ignition, no starter, etc.

    The usual work to get to the PCV was done: intake manifold, fan, hoses, MAF, charge pipe, etc. I did not touch the PS or alternator for this.

    Also, when disassembled, I didn't touch the starter connections (they looked good) but did, of course, disassemble the throttle body and clean it. The connection seems tight to the TB. So, what else could be causing this no start condition from just the work listed above? I'm stumped and we need this car working, as it's my wife's car!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    Check your wiring and grounds
    All emails please use: jrl1194 (at) aol.com

    2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak, 112K miles. My daily driver and GORGEOUS
    2000 V70R wife's. Won't sell, now at 148K miles !! and still (almost) perfect.
    2000 S70 GLT SE with 29,000 miles!!! A time capsule, V70R front bumper, Volans, etc. SOLD!!! (I Will regret selling this!)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

    Default

    Try to remove small starter wire (the one for control solenoid, not the thick one for main power), clean contacts thoroughly and make sure they fit tight. Then apply some dielectric grease to prevent further oxidation and plug back. Fixed problem on wife's 2002 V70, which reappeared shortly even after new starter install.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Eastern, MA, USA
    Posts
    216

    Default

    Gotcha, thanks.

    I am a "cause-and-effect" believer, so this must be the result of something I did whilst installing the new PCV box.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,119

    Default

    I doubt that your PCV work caused this. Sounds like bad battery, bad antenna ring, bad spot on starter, or bad connection to starter.

    If you turn the key, and it does not crank (crank is when the starter goes rrrrr, rrrrr, rrrr), then you either don't have enough voltage to the starter, or the voltage isn't getting to the starter. Start by getting a volt meter on the volt meter to check voltage. Next, put a test light in that small lead to the starter. If voltage is getting to that lead, it's the starter itself.

    If no voltage is getting to the lead, you've got a problem with the anti theft circuitry, like the antenna ring...and you're likely going to have to get it towed to the dealer.

    I believe in cause and effect- but correlation is not causality. There is a cause for your problem. If you messed it up by your PCV work, then it would likely have manifested itself right away...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Eastern, MA, USA
    Posts
    216

    Default

    No, there is no attempt at ignition. Lamps are all good, no dimming of lights, I tested the battery and it's good (two years old genuine Volvo), even put a charger on the car for a while. No effect.

    I'm guessing that small wire to the starter was nicked while I was in there. Originally, I thought I would take it off and clean it while it was accessible, but nooooo... so now i get to reach in there and get to it. Or, of course, disassemble again, which I am pretty good at now.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,119

    Default

    We need to clarify terms. "No attempt at ignition" doesn't mean anything if the engine won't crank.

    Run = when engine is rotating by itself. Fuel is injected, spark ignites fuel. Car can be driven in this state.
    Crank = starter engages. Engine rotates but does not run
    Ignition = when spark plugs fire and fuel explodes in cylinder. This is part of run.
    Start = when engine goes from off to run.

    Your descriptions continue to add ambiguity to your problem.

    I understand that you have an engine that won't start because it won't crank. Turn key, no noise, no starter moving engine. Ignition won't happen in this situation because the computer won't send voltage to the coils without seeng crank rotation (see crank angle sensor, or cam angle sensor, depending on the type of car).

    Is that right?
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Eastern, MA, USA
    Posts
    216

    Default

    I'm not sure what is ambiguous - there is no starter motor engagement, therefore no attempt at ignition. No "cranking," if you like. I don't know if there is fuel yet, but since everything ran prior to the recent work, I have no reason to suspect a fuel pump (and, that is usually not how a faulty fuel pump quits, of course). And, of course, the ECU is not going to flood the engine with fuel if there is no cranking, and therefore no spark. As stated in the first post, all lights do come on, the lights do not dim, and the battery tested good.

    So, I am left with a silent sound when the key is turned. No cranking, no attempt at igniting those little plugs.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    813

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sanfelice View Post
    Can't figure this one out, has to be a connection somewhere, but the car started fine for about five days since I did the work.

    When the key is turned, lights come on, but no ignition, no starter, etc.

    The usual work to get to the PCV was done: intake manifold, fan, hoses, MAF, charge pipe, etc. I did not touch the PS or alternator for this.

    Also, when disassembled, I didn't touch the starter connections (they looked good) but did, of course, disassemble the throttle body and clean it. The connection seems tight to the TB. So, what else could be causing this no start condition from just the work listed above? I'm stumped and we need this car working, as it's my wife's car!
    I always disconnect battery before doing smallest repair -- JRL reminds us often.
    Did ya?
    Astro's 7:43 post makes total sense.
    Last edited by Xheart; 11-16-2014 at 08:35 AM.
    2001 V70XC +204k miles/ XeMODeX/ Pirelli 12/32"/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Great Lakes

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Eastern, MA, USA
    Posts
    216

    Default

    Battery was disconnected, and for at least 10 minutes, which is what I found is a minimum time. Still, no luck.

    Just to be clear, I don't believe the PCV work has anything to do directly with this, it's simply that the throttle body resetting itself after disconnection was my initial concern, but I'll be checking the starter connection and reporting back.

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