Overland 2013/14 to Morocco

[XCovlov70]

Stage 23 “Tazzarine to M'ssici”

“Salam Alaikam”

Apologies that this update is slightly overdue. The connection with Maroc Telecom came up as GPRS which is SLOWER than the ‘Old’ Dial Up connection we used to have for Internet, so I was as an alternative thinking of sending Postcards to all those who have taken residence in the ‘Third Seat’ of Flamenco Red as they would possibly have got there quicker!!

On the road by 09:00hrs and the town was unlike yesterday quite quiet as we drove through the centre….



Then just outside as we came over a small hill we spotted this in front of us….



Slapped on the brakes and took it nice and slow as I had visions of a number of things coming apart as they did last time…..



Checked inside the ‘Tin Tent’ after we got over and thankfully all was well, while a couple of miles further on was a rather large herd of Goats crossing the road as the herdsman was about 500 yards away in the field chasing up the ‘stragglers’ …



Decent road surface for quite a distance with the odd few ‘potholes’ but still quite ‘bumpy’ as you cross the many low river bridges while the road remained ‘bump free’….











Then up pops this little advert for a rather large but nice hotel complex….



Which we turned around and parked up with a view to seeing if we could get a coffee….



Entrance to Hotel, Restaurant, Café, Fossil Shop and supposedly a Campsite….



Found the Receptionist and established we could get the coffee’s so the order was placed while we had a look around …..

















Round the corner to Reception were these brightly coloured ladies scarves and at less than £4 ($6) each our good ladies found what they wanted so the cost was added to the coffee’s as we went to pay….



Back on the road and we pass one of the many roadside shops offering….





Construction workers accommodation and the raw materials alongside for the job….



Next large town appears….









Water outlet with ladies doing their laundry at the side….









As we passed the Museum we spotted a hand waving to us to ‘Come and have a look’ but fossils are not our scene, especially the ones produced in the back room yesterday which we understand are a ‘feature’ of the area….





Not long after and we reach the sign for M’cissi, only to find that once again the campsite is closed, and has been for the last 10 Months!



In finding out from a very helpful resident about the campsite called ‘Another One’ that ‘bit the dust’ he advises us that there is another campsite in the village around 500yds further along the road, so off we go and find the sign with a short trip on a pisted section we come to….



‘WIDE OPEN’ Spaces in glorious sunshine, didn’t take long to get set up….



I then found that while I had a good signal with the Maroc Telecom Dongle, it was on GPRS and extremely S L O W.
It took 4 Minutes to send 1 lousy email!
The Bamboo Pole with the Dongle at the top on the roof of the ‘Tin Tent’ is between the Comms Masts in the above picture…

So sorry Folks, this update with 36 pictures will have to wait for a while….

tisbah `ala khair (Arabic ‘Good night’)

[XCovlov70]

Stage 23A “A day in M'ssici”

“Salam Alaikam”

07:00hrs and the Sun starts to ‘wake up’ to another nice warm day…







At around 08:30 hrs I watched as the small Son of the Campsite Owners Daughter set off for School, and learned that he is 6 years old and walks the 1 mile to school each and every morning on his own.

With that in mind and the fact that we are in a small village, we decided to put a ‘Gift Pack’ in the haversack and find the school.
Just as we were setting off the Campsite Owner arrived so I confirmed where the school was and we set off, as we knew that the class would finish at 12:00.
15 minutes after setting off the Campsite Owner and his Nephew caught us up in their car and offered to take us there, which we thought was really nice, so we then got dropped off by the gate as they went off to a bigger town on business.

This was the view inside the entrance gate of just 3 classrooms, only one of which was being used….



While this is the picture that I was allowed to take of the children after we explained to the Teacher why we had come and given him the ‘Gift Pack’ for which he and the kids were very grateful as they don’t often get to use Paper as you can see by the small Chalkboards they are holding up….



Got back to the campsite and wanted a shower, so set off to the appropriate place only to find yet again no hot water.
Investigation of the ‘Boiler Room’ gave me the picture below, as a Solar Panel outside connected to a Solar Controller charges a Large Battery, which is used to ignite the Water Boiler and also power the Shower Pump.

The Water Boiler runs off a Gas Cylinder, not in the picture, but at the end of the Yellow/Orange vertical pipe.

However the Boiler ‘Ignition Wires’ were not connected, while if it had been there was no outlet other than the doorway for the fumes from the boiler when lit!
Exit Stage Left, back to the ‘Tin Tent’ turn the water heater on and 45 minutes later one nice safe shower was to be had!



On our way back from the school we passed a very old building which we think was a small Kasbah, that we later found out was over 300 Years Old and was the original Village Dwelling for everyone who lived there, so we went back to have a look around….









The walls seemed very interesting as between each section there were large stones set in the wall as though they were support points for floor beams….







While at the back of the building was this Solar Panel Installation now completely non-functional, but was used in past times along with another installation of which only the frames are in place to provide power for a water pump that was used for everything in the Kasbah as well as irrigation around the Oasis.....







Irrigation channels going into the Oasis and produce growing plots…



After then finding the ‘Bakers’ which was still working and sat in the front wall of the old Kasbah we got 4 very fresh loaves of bread and made our way back to the campsite, finding a Pomegranate on one of the trees on the campsite…..



Which was cut open and placed away from us for the Birds, and a little while later we went over to have a look and a large portion of the seeds had been picked out and eaten by our feathered friends….



While at the end of another nice day we witnessed a wonderful sunset….





On the road again tomorrow to Merzuga….

tisbah `ala khair (Arabic ‘Good night’)

[XCovlov70]

Stage 24 “M'ssici to Merzuga”

“Salam Alaikam”

On the road by 08:30hrs and because it was ‘Fest Day’ (The Birthday of the Prophet Mohammed) the road was very quiet, so sit back and enjoy the scenery as we make our way along…..



Interestingly while we seemed to go through small ‘stages’ of road that had sizeable ‘Potholes’ in, they did eventually disappear and the road became much better, except for the last 2Km as you will see later on….





















Take note of the LARGE ‘Flatish’ rock on the left of the next picture….



Which as we got closer, and was pulled in even closer by my good lady, looked like this…..







Seems like we found one of those fields that specialises in growing Plastic Bags again, as we come into the outskirts of Rissani….







Road junction up ahead, where we need to hang a right, but don’t forget to STOP, and I mean STOP as there is one of those signs at the junction!





Bear Left at the next junction which is actually a traffic island so you do not need to STOP if it is clear….



Heading towards Rissani Town Centre….



We then come to a very nice Town Gate……





While the Red & White kerbstones mean ‘No Parking’ just in front going off around the bend is a military establishment….



Up to the next junction with is a ‘T’ with another ‘STOP’ sign and some nice Murals along the opposite wall we hang a left….









“Sorry Dear, could you pick up some firewood on your way home?”



Nicely coloured school…..



As we start to cross open ground with a good road, we start passing numerous roadside signs advertising mainly campsites in Merzouga, with a stuffed ‘Iron Plate’ Camel keeping a watchful eye on them….



Then we see Erg Chebbi which is the BIGGEST Sand Dune in the Sahara at 15Km long by 14Km wide….





As we make a left turn from the nice Tarmac onto a 2Km ‘Corrugated Piste’ section that takes us direct to the front entrance of our next campsite….







As we go along the ‘Corrugations’ a Moped goes across the front of us with 4 People on it, it looked like Mum & Dad + the kids, and the kids were waving to us…..



Slow ride of about 5mph on the corrugations, so nothing got broken or fell off and we arrive at the campsite….



Off for a look around Erg Chebbi tomorrow but firstly we have another very nice Sunset to reflect on…..



tisbah `ala khair (Arabic ‘Good night’)

[XCovlov70]

Stage 24A “An afternoon in Merzuga and a morning on Erg Chebbi”

“Salam Alaikam”

After getting onto the campsite and getting set up, then after a bit of lunch we took a walk around Merzuga with the following results…..

The high sand dune….





Interesting sign along the roadside, which for some reason made me think of ‘Bus Depot’….



As it made me think of all these Nomad’s coming out of the Depot and shooting off in different directions, but I guess that’s Northern UK humour!



Nicely painted school….



Then a walk around part of the lower dunes….





Ripples in the sand caused by the wind….









Camel Foot, that’s the imprint in the sand on the right in the picture….



Dung Beetle…..



The ‘Short Chimney’s in the next picture were part of an Italian funded project to get water out of the desert from condensation which while it does not seem to have been completed seems to have given some results….





At the bottom of this ‘Chimney’ we could see water….





One of the many Auberge’s (Hotel’s) in the area, some of which looked much better than the others especially on the outside….



We found out the following morning what made these tracks in the sand….



Another Water Well, not part of the Italian Project that had an electric pump at the bottom….



There was water also inside this one….



While on the way back we found one of the ‘Old’ water wells which you have to haul the water up by hand.
I tried it and as the rubber bucket came up the water was flowing out of all the holes in the darn thing, so much so if I had been a bit faster I could have had a shower underneath….



Passing a Patisserie in town we see that they offer ‘Classes’ for would be cake makers but there were none on offer at the time……



New building, not sure of the use, but a rather nice front door….



Up on the terrace back at the campsite it was approaching Sunset when we spotted another of the nicer looking Auberges in town….



While at the back of the campsite are all these Berber Tents which you can rent and spend the night in if you are so inclined, with rugs and very thick mattresses.….



As the Moon makes its entrance the Sun starts to dip…..











With a last glint from the Sun….



The Moon brightens up as it rises in the sky….



Then we see the ‘Outside Lighting’ and the ‘Permanent Re-cycled Jam Jar’ as a light shade ….



Nice last parting ‘Pink sky’ from the Sun….



While not a very good picture using the Moonlight at 21:00hrs is this night shot of the sand dunes.



Then the following morning we set off at 09:30 to get to the TOP of the BIG Sand Dune on foot, NO mechanical aids being allowed like Dune Buggies….

As we get onto part of a track we see a Berber Camp, which has been set up for the Tourists who wish to ‘spend a night in the desert’….



Then shortly after we start the climb over the various dunes to get to the top….



Some parts being harder than others to get up…..



Then we found who or what had made the tracks yesterday, it was the Dung Beetle….



As we climbed up we spotted a couple of ‘Ships of the Dessert’ making their way back to Merzuga….



While for us the next section was that good we were on all fours going up….


With some of the views as we climbed up….







We finally got to the top 2 hours after we set off….



While the views from the top were superb…..





While the trip back down took all of 30 minutes and fun was had by all as we slipped and slid down the dunes…..







While at the bottom, my good lady found that she had a ‘Mini Erg Chebbi’ inside her walking boots…..



Two boots offloaded and we have a mini sand dune, but we did have some fun coming back down!



tisbah `ala khair (Arabic ‘Good night’)

[ssicarman]

I may still be laughing at you guys climbing the sand dunes on all fours. You do get a lot of credit for sticking to it and making it all the way up. Looks like you had some company on the way up.

[XCovlov70]

I may still be laughing at you guys climbing the sand dunes on all fours. You do get a lot of credit for sticking to it and making it all the way up. Looks like you had some company on the way up.

Don't worry your laughter was possibly an 8 hour reverberated echo of ours as you saw the pictures! We ended up on all fours as that part of the dune was nearly vertical and it was virtually impossible to stand up straight without sliding back down, as the sand moved beneath your feet, so we decided to 'Crabit' up the darn thing and it worked well.

While we did have a few 'rest stops' on the way up we were determined to make it as the 'company' set off at the same time and watched us making our way up as they were like 'Sand Dune Goats' (Remember they are the small ones with short legs and no hump ) and got to the top well before us so sat back and watched us struggle!!!

[XCovlov70]

Stage 24B “Another day in Merzuga”

“Salam Alaikam”

Mixed day today as the Sun disappeared and the clouds built up…..

Last night under what seemed to be a full moon I went out to the rear of the Auberge hoping to be able to get the Dunes in a different colour, while I didn’t manage it, I also got no sky!



While at the front of the Auberge all I got was the Moon just climbing over the top….



The following morning as the wind had risen and the clouds started forming with a promise of rain which by this evening has not arrived, but if it does and it’s heavy we could have a bit of trouble tomorrow as it fills the ‘potholes’ and we are moving!

Decided to go and check out the planned next campsite as it is set back from the road and not sure if the 4+Tonne Camper will be able to make it…..



As we get down to the centre of Merzouga we pull in for a couple of pictures by the very big sand dune….





Then as TOMTOM sends us on a slight detour, we find we are going along a very sandy road….








Boy was I glad that ‘Flamenco Red’ is a 4x4, as it was ‘Up & Over’ and we get back to the main road!



Interesting contrast where the sand has blown….



The further we go along the road the more you notice how harsh the area is getting….



Then we see the sign for the campsite and note that it involves 3Km of Pisted road…..





While the campsite itself is somewhere along the edge between sand dune and oasis in the next picture as the Camper is only front wheel drive we dare not take the chance of something going wrong, so our planned stop there was duly scrapped….



Turn around and start making our way back to our current campsite and we pass this Primary school….



Then put together a sample of the different Auberge’s that we pass along the road…



On the right hand side of the bottom right picture above you might just detect a strange shape? It was this GIANT Camel ‘Family’….



A close-up picture of the ‘Road Corrugations’ that can rattle your teeth and make your Dentures fall out if you are not careful!



Next stop was an Auberge with a small campsite and a Panoramic View…
This next picture was inside the restaurant….



While outside on the terrace with a not so nice cup of coffee we see this nice view….





Coffee drunk with the help of an extra sugar cube which was surprisingly brown sugar, we set off to see if we could find the little Desert Fox……



Success, as the boys ‘popped’ up alongside the road….



Next stop tomorrow is Rissani…

tisbah `ala khair (Arabic ‘Good night’)

[XCovlov70]

Stage 25 “Merzuga to Erfoud”

“Salam Alaikam”

Woke to a very cloudy morning and a high wind blowing dust and sand all over the placed, so we knew before asking it was going to be a miserable day, and it was…..

Just outside the campsite you could turn right and head across tracks in the dirt before joining a pisted road, which slowed you down by these chicanes as you came to the village centre….



Pass through the centre, turn left and pass by the Dune Buggy Hire Shop which we completely missed yesterday, but now glad we went over the Dunes on foot as I think it was a nicer feeling ….



Back on the Tarmac road to Rissani….





While coming to the outskirts we see this nicely painted Mosque while the old Kasbah is crumbling down….





How to identify a ‘Road Problem’ in Morocco when you have no tarmac to fix it, although the ‘blue’ in the picture was a bag of rubbish that had been dropped in to help…..



Another Kasbah as we move along….



Followed by a Fossil and Trilobite outlet…..



With another on the opposite side of the road, with a Fossil that looked like it had just been released from the mould….



Now into the centre….





The red & white kerbstones mean ‘No Parking’ as this was one of those establishments…..



With one of the legs on the ‘Tin Tent’ proving to be a bit tight when winding it down or up when on a campsite I have been trying to get some grease to put some lubrication on the threads, so called into this Shell Garage where the man wanted to sell me a 1Kg tin of grease. As I only wanted about 10 Grams I declined his offer….



While spotted this rather nicely tiled water outlet on the opposite side of the forecourt….



Haven’t seen a ‘Mule Rider’ in a number of days, while windy weather makes no difference to going around on the Mule….



New building but strange shape…..



While this is a shelter at a ‘Bus Stop’ it didn’t offer any protection when the wind started blowing hard….



Next up was a Fossil Museum, ‘Free Entry’ in BIG letters on the notice boards, while some strange creatures were to be found outside….







While not much further and by 11:00AM it was raining with a strong wind, but we were already at the next campsite, which interestingly was outside Erfoud by 8Km (5Miles) and felt like it was in the middle of nowhere.
Got set up and then in between the rain showers we went into Erfoud shopping for different things, while in the Market we were followed by a group of 3 beggars, who seemed to be acting together. Only as we came outside did they leave us alone….

While on a happier note as we made our way back to ‘Flamenco Red’ the local Infant school children had just come out, and a couple of the kids looked over and smiled while one little boy started ‘skipping’ along, so I joined him and also started ‘skipping’ which with a haversack clamped to my back and around 15lbs of groceries in was not easy, but the little boy and the other kids were enjoying the occasion, with howls of laughter as we went along…

Then we returned to the campsite and the weather got worse as the rain got heavier, and the mud stuck to your soles in 3 Inch ‘lumps’! YUK!

Back on the road tomorrow, just hope the rain stops….

tisbah `ala khair (Arabic ‘Good night’)

[XCovlov70]

Stage 26 “Erfoud to South of Ar Rachidia”

“Salam Alaikam”

Well as the rain HAMMERED down last night we did have a clean ‘Flamenco Red’ this morning as the air was not dusty but that wasn’t going to last very long …..

While heading for a shower I nearly got ‘sucked’ out of my shoes with the MUD!….



While the only thing on the campsite worth looking at was this building that looked like a large version of the ‘tool’ that you use to unblock the drains when they clog up, while they were actually rentable rooms on the campsite ….



Set off from the campsite having left ‘furrows’ on the pitch that you could plant potatoes in to make our way to and through Erfoud, with some of the sights and ‘rain puddles’ on the way….

Some of the large Hotels & a Fossil shop on the way into town….









Town Gates which interestingly are quite plain…..





WOW! Traffic lights, haven’t seen them in what seems like weeks!....



Mural painted walls as we pass through…..









We think this lady was fighting a losing battle, as fast as she brushed the water away, it came back again…..



A happy friendly pedestrian….



Had to be careful with a lot of the larger puddles just in case the water was covering a pothole in the road….



Another large Hotel on the far side of town….





Now out of town and in the countryside….



Where we see the woven squares of palm fronds to stop the sand from moving about in a sandstorm….



While we see BIG puddles across the road, and have no idea of the depth of the water, as the car coming towards us waited until we had gone through before he attempted it….



As the water ran across the road…..



While up ahead and just off to the left was this waterspout which we think was caused by the pressure of the rainwater in a drain….



Yet another Fossil Museum….



Seems like it is drying out a bit as we travel along…..









A herd of Goats with their Herdsman with more road sense than some of the pedestrians we see and manage to get passed as they walk in the road….



A river which was a nice shade of brown and we believe is usually a ‘dry bed’!



Finally after making a wrong turn we get to our next campsite….







With a nicely MUD coated ‘Tin Tent’, and lumps of mud on the roof which had dried out in the Sun and had become very hard like stones….



While all 4 wheels on ‘Flamenco Red’ looked like we had fitted the Moroccan version of the ‘Snow Boots’ that are now being sold in the UK instead of ‘Snow Chains’ except for us they would have been called ‘Mud Boots’….



What a ‘Yuuky Day’ this has been so far….

tisbah `ala khair (Arabic ‘Good night’)

[XCovlov70]

Stage 26A “An afternoon stroll from the campsite around the area”

“Salam Alaikam”

After a really nice ‘Welcome’ from our host here at the campsite with a very tasty cup of herbal tea we decided after lunch to set off on a stroll around the area as the scenery is absolutely breath taking, so here are a few pictures from a stroll of around 7 miles of walking …..

As we turned right coming out of the campsite we passed this old house that is now the animal shelter, with the water well on the right hand side of the old house….



Panorama down the road….



Normal picture looking back up the road….



Weir….





Variety of trees including Eucalyptus on the opposite bank of the river….



Panorama further down the road…..



The point at which the two rivers join up….



Looking over to part of the agricultural section in the area ....



The brown waters of the rivers…..





Messing about on the bridge….(I think the picture only came out because of the brown waters!)





Notice the LARGE Rock (Middle right) in the picture which had split and was just above the roadside…..



While under the cliff face were these two rocks waiting to ‘roll on down’….



Another Weir….



Our tyre marks as we realised we had missed the road for the campsite and pulled over, before going on an using a garage forecourt to turn around….



Fast flowing brown water….





Recognise anyone?….



Totally derelict Kasbah, set above the road.….



Eventually getting into the town of Aoufouss, I got the Grease I needed from a car accessory shop, and then found this Ironmongers as I wanted a small brush to apply the Grease. This place was like an Aladdin’s Cave! …..



After a coffee break in a local café we decided to go back ‘Across Country’ as the main road was a bit ‘hairy’ for walking along, so off we set through all sorts of fields, while using raised sections of earth, some still wet and slippery as we made our way back.….











As we come to a small village across a narrow bridge….



Then passed an old Kasbah, which we understand is still occupied in parts….







One of the main agricultural ‘products’ here are Dates, and we passed by these which seem to have been left to dry out…..



While another ‘product’ is Olives and the oil that you can get from them as you crush them….



As time marched on it was fast approaching Sunset, but ours was mixed with Lightening flashing in various parts of the sky as the clouds were lit up by the Sunset….









When we got back to the campsite I saw that all the Mud had been removed from the ‘Tin Tent’ and found out a short while later that Akmed the campsite owner had cleaned it off for me, which I thought was extremely kind of him, and something I will not forget in a long time.

A ‘Yuuky Day’ that ended better than it started….

tisbah `ala khair (Arabic ‘Good night’)