Misfire questions

[JRL]

Good luck, let us know if this fixes your problems

[Astro14]

Thanks for the feedback!

Anyone know of a way to "bench test" a coil pack? Impedance/resistance? Voltage?

Btw, the Volvo house here just tried to r*pe me for $67.58 for OE plug set and $56.90 for the same parts at ipd. Told him I would love to buy from him if he could get close to ipd's price, called me a liar when I told what is was and hung up on me. Jackholes.

Park Place Volvo in Dallas = worthless

My strategy for dealing with the dealer parts guy is to price over the phone as well...but they will always give me 10% off for being part of the Volvo club, I just ask nicely...he's a busy guy, I doubt he has time for phone price debates since he doesn't set those prices...

If you need parts in a hurry, they are the only game in town...if you can wait, then you can afford to be price-conscious...and by the time you pay shipping, a $10 difference is irrelevant, hardly r*pe...

[TexasXC]

Alright here's the skinny:

The parts manager at Volvo of Dallas was a complete different animal - gave me everything at wholesale and apologized for the guy at Park Place. Much better experience - I even offered to pay more than that, but he insisted. Anyone in Texas, call David at Volvo of Dallas.

I changed my plugs to OEM and I still have a misfire - seems like #1 is still missing badly.

Swapped my coil packs with #1 and #5 - seems the miss is still on #1. I unplugged #1 and it ran the same... :-(

I am a little skeptical of throwing $250 in a set of IPD coil packs on the car only to have it run the same, so I need to properly diagnose before hanging parts in a desperate attempt to have her run.

New fuel filter installed - OE filter at 150k - didn't even seem that dirty. Also seems like more than adequate fuel pressure at the rail.

I have only scanned it with OBDII - gonna track down an indy (got his name from David at VoD) who has VIDA on Monday to see if there are other DTC present that might not be reading with a generic OBDII scanner.

What else? Failing ECM? Did I piss off a Swedish deity?

I am decent at "fault, code, part, solution" type problems, but this is truly puzzling. I am trying to attack it from an air-fuel-spark approach and it seems I have everything in place. I am getting no air leak/vacuum leak codes so all I can surmise at this point is that my ECM is not giving the coil packs proper firing signals.

Could I have a bad injector? Would that throw a separate and discreet code?

I have access to all sorts of electrical equipment - oscilloscopes, meters, etc. - is there any troubleshooting I can do to verify my coils are getting firing voltage/signals at the proper time?

I know we have some techs on here so any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

[JRL]

Maybe you have a stuck ring, try a Seafoam treatment

[ssicarman]

If you are down to only the #1 cylinder misfiring and pretty much everything else done
I would try a couple of things. Cylinder compression test and swapping the #1 injector with another cylinder. Compression test will let you know if you have a mechnical problem, low compression causing the misfire. Injector swap will let you know if you have a bad injector causing the misfire. Along with the injector swap you want to make sure that the wiring to the injector is good. Easiest best way to check the wiring is to get a noid light that will plug into the injector connector. Crank/start the engine to see if the noid light has a good strong flash from the power plulse that activates the injector.

[TexasXC]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x65e...e_gdata_player

[TexasXC]

Maybe you have a stuck ring, try a Seafoam treatment

Not trying to be an idiot, just want to make sure I understand you correctly - are you referring to adding Seafoam to my crankcase and then following the directions from there?

[JRL]

Yes.
If, by chance, that is the problem, I've had great results with Seafoam
(it can't hurt)!

[TexasXC]

If you are down to only the #1 cylinder misfiring and pretty much everything else done
I would try a couple of things. Cylinder compression test and swapping the #1 injector with another cylinder. Compression test will let you know if you have a mechnical problem, low compression causing the misfire. Injector swap will let you know if you have a bad injector causing the misfire. Along with the injector swap you want to make sure that the wiring to the injector is good. Easiest best way to check the wiring is to get a noid light that will plug into the injector connector. Crank/start the engine to see if the noid light has a good strong flash from the power plulse that activates the injector.

Unfamiliar with a noid light - where would I acquire one of these little gems? Can I rent one if they are a little pricey?

[ssicarman]

Unfamiliar with a noid light - where would I acquire one of these little gems? Can I rent one if they are a little pricey?

If you have a local parts store that rents out tools they may have a set to available rent/buy.

http://www.noidlight.com/using-a-noi...tep-procedure/

Whole bunch of sets on sale on Ebay. You don't need one of the more expensive sets if you have to buy your own. I have what would be one of the 15-20$ sets on Ebay.