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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,119

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    If you want to be successful - then have a specialist rebuild the body.

    I don't doubt that you can do the swap, but there is far more to rebuilding the body than what you've found on youtube or the web. The fact that you think you have all the tools tells me that you haven't fully understood what's involved. There are far more parts in the Valve Body alone than in any manual transmission.

    Just the jigs to install the Sonnax upgrades (re-bore) are several hundred $$...I know, I looked...and the tool set (jigs) to rebuild the linear solenoids are a few hundred $$. The cost of the tools just to be able to rebuild it exceed the cost of having a specialist rebuild the valve body. But having the tools doesn't mean that you can do the rebuild, you still need to be able to adjust it when you're done.

    Here's a link to the guys who did both of my valve bodies: http://www.valvebodybuilders.com/

    Here's what they do to remanufacture:

    Using a comprehensive three-phase process, Valve Body Builders remanufactures transmission valve bodies that exceed industry standards.

    Phase 1: Test each individual solenoid electrically three times, flush with heated hydraulic fluid, test for flow and leak, then graph performance on computer to ensure the solenoid meets OEM specs.

    Phase 2: Check and test each individual valve, install Sonnax upgrades as well as upgrades engineered by VBB.

    Phase 3: Run assembled valve bodies through a complete series of shifting tests on using Zoom Technologies Smart Switch VBT 4000.

    The end result is a valve body that's ready to work and to keep on working! Our remanufactured valve bodies come with a 12 month unlimited kilometers warranty.

    VBB works closely with each customer, providing personal, hands-on service and a product that will keep their car lift free of technical problems.



    VBB doesn't deal with consumers (at least, until I begged them to do mine) - they're focused on supporting transmission shops. Transmission shops who have found the valve body too technically challenging, that's why VBB has the flow bench, using heated fluid, to test and adjust the rebuild.

    One other point, if you mess the body up, you'll find a new one is about $1,300...about twice the price of having a specialist rebuild the body.

    The spirit of this forum is to learn from the experience of others....that's why I wrote the notes on replacing the valve body. I've done it twice. Learn from my experience: The best route is to take it out, send it off, and have a specialist do the work.
    Last edited by Astro14; 04-30-2012 at 03:44 AM.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stuj View Post
    I hear what yo say but don't think my transmission specialist is prepared to spend the time on diagnosis the problem. their first option is to change the valve body as it is the least risk option for them. If a cheap fix does not work they will have to pay for the labour to make good on a guarantee. So, they are transferring their risk insurance to me at my cost by replacing the valve body.

    What special tools do professionals have to do the job that i don't ... the answer is none! All you need is a good pressure gauge (mine has a data logger) and volvo dice (most transmission specialists don't have this and have to outsource this to Volvo who are reluctant to help anyone in my state).

    It's easier to replace the whole valve body, i agree. but more of a challenge to repair it and what is the outcome if it doesn't work...greasy hands and the cost of a new valve body.

    I'm prepared to take the risk and have a go.... after all this is the spirit o this type of forum.

    and BTW i don't have to accept your answer,but thanks for the advice anyway.
    If you do decide to tackle this job, could you keep us updated as to both your processes and the results? Good or bad. Obviously with all the information floating around out there on Volvo trannies, hard, provable evidence of what can work or not is valuable to all of us.

    Thanks,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Piedmont Triad, NC
    Posts
    154

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    Quote Originally Posted by howardc64 View Post
    What kind of shifting problems did you have and continues to have?
    car stays in second for a prolonged time with a slow movement until it starts to pickup some speed, then moves to 3rd then after 3rd no problem. adaptation canot be completed. hard to get passed 2-3 orange light. so far the software has been upgraded but no luck, B4 servo upgraded, still no luck.
    1998 V70 187K miles and counting,now sold
    2002 VW GTI 1.8 T My sweet baby
    2002 V70 XC 158K miles sold
    2005 V70 XC 98Kk miles Newly aquired

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Hi

    Some time since I posted this but finally overhauled my valve body. It's a lof of work but quit simple to do if you have good workshop skills. I used the transgo shift kit from e-bay.....only costs $88. The procedure on this forum was very helpful. The kit came with instructions that are very good. Only hassle I had was removing the bonded gasket on the middle plate, in hindsight is should have re-used this but wanted to replace all gaskets.

    Used the vida tool to put the car into adaptive mode this is simple once you work out that what looks like a picture is actually a button..crazy Swedish programmers!

    The car shifts like new and I'm very happy with the outcome.

    I drilled the holes in the cover so I could adjust the pressure if needed. I used self tapping bolts with o ring and this works well, you have to grind them short of course.

    I have purchased a 15 psi pressure transducer to check the pressures if required.

    Overall this is a good project and there is definitely no special transmission expert needed to do this work. If people tell you this should only do this is you are a qualified technician they are wrong and in fact the transmission experts in Australia generally use unskilled labour to fit refurbished units anyway.

    Stuj

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,119

    Default

    Stuj - what parts did you replace? what upgrades did you do? Did you rebore or re-sleeve anything? How did you test it on the bench?
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Stuj - what parts did you replace? what upgrades did you do? Did you rebore or re-sleeve anything? How did you test it on the bench?
    Astro

    I did a couple of vac tests but soon realised that there was no real wear on other parts not supplied in the kit. No rebore required. I will scan the instructions from the transgo kit and upload to this forum. I think the main reason for the shift issue was the modulators sticking.
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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    21

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    Photos and transgo instructions

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    See next post for next photos

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Photos from last post

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  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,119

    Default

    Thanks for posting! FWIW, all of my solenoids checked within range on both valve bodies...before I sent them off, I wanted to ensure that the solenoids were good....

    Cheers
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (130K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (58K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (147K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (247K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (300K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (230K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    91

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Thanks for posting! FWIW, all of my solenoids checked within range on both valve bodies...before I sent them off, I wanted to ensure that the solenoids were good....

    Cheers


    STUJ

    Will you tell me the part number for the shift kit you used?

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