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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    3

    Default Volvo noob considering purchasing a V70XC

    Hello to all,

    I have been looking for a reasonably priced AWD commuter car for a couple of weeks. Started looking at Subarus as I have owned a few and had decent luck with them.

    Anyway, I ran across a 99' XC that I like - now I am thinking my new daily driver should have a little more style and luxury then a Subaru. I have been doing a bunch of reading on this forum about all of the "weak" spots for the early XC's. I feel like I am fairly well prepared to take the car for a test drive and make an educated decision. And I'm not scared away knowing some of the potential issues with these cars

    This car will be used primarily as a winter commuter, 130 mi RT commute, mountains, highway and city. Though I am hoping for a reliable car, I do understand that any 13 year old car can and will have issues. I do have a backup commuter car so I am okay with a little bit of down time but cannot afford to throw endless amounts of money at this thing. I am what I would call a good backyard mechanic, I can take care of most maintenance on my own.

    Any thoughts, caveats, am I crazy?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    641

    Default

    Most likely (Approx parts prices...no labor! might be off doing from memory):

    Bevel Gear $1500
    Propshaft $450 Rebuilt
    Brakes all around $400
    Axles $200 Each
    Control Arms $150 Each
    Rear Shocks $350 Each
    Front Shocks, seats etc $250 Each
    ABS module $150
    Evaporator (do heater core same time) $600 ($1500 for someone else to do it).

    Other potential:
    ETM - Used $200-$400, new $1000
    Radiator $250
    Viscous coupler $350
    Turbo $$
    Thermostat and Temp sender (cheap and easy)$100
    Rear tailgate wiring -Self fix
    Emergency brakes seize or delaminate - $150
    E-brake cables- $150

    MUST KEEP the same brand model and wear level of tires on all 4 wheels all the time. Can't replace just one.....Always all four. Rotate regularly.

    Honestly, these are great cars. the maintenance can kill you. Not all these things are guaranteed to go wrong but at least 1/3 will in the next 2 years. If you can do all your own repairs then maybe worth it. If you are going to have to pay someone else then money better spent on a 2004+....

    Search on my name, someone recently asked what to do for immediate maintenance if you buy one. I already did a good list there, also gives you an idea of what problems to look for.

    Take an OBDII reader with you and verify it is emissions ready and not throwing and codes........
    2020 Subaru Outback XT - Pearl White Loaded-huge improvement over 2013!
    1955 Ford F-250 - 223 IL6, 4 Speed with Granny Gear, 109 HP, 4.88 Rear
    2017 Maserati Ghibli - Blu Emozione - GONE!
    2013 2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 110k miles
    2007 2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 215k miles
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 8pack View Post
    Most likely (Approx parts prices...no labor! might be off doing from memory):

    Bevel Gear $1500
    Propshaft $450 Rebuilt
    Brakes all around $400
    Axles $200 Each
    Control Arms $150 Each
    Rear Shocks $350 Each
    Front Shocks, seats etc $250 Each
    ABS module $150

    $60


    Evaporator (do heater core same time) $600 ($1500 for someone else to do it).

    $300 if you do it yourself

    Other potential:
    ETM - Used $200-$400, new $1000
    Radiator $250
    Viscous coupler $350
    WHERE? PLEASE LET ME KNOW AND I'LL BUY A HALF DOZEN

    Thermostat and Temp sender (cheap and easy)$100
    Rear tailgate wiring -Self fix
    Emergency brakes seize or delaminate - $150
    MUCH MORE
    E-brake cables- $150
    AGAIN, MUCH MORE

    *****

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Well it looks like they are high maintenance. I'm okay with that as I do most if not all of my own maintenance. I think I will have the car I'm looking at checked out by the local Volvo specialist.

    I'm not sure if the A/C is working - is it prone to problems?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    Yep
    ALL the evaporators go bad every 5-9 years or so, just a poor design, they rust out
    BIG job... $1500
    10 hour flat rate, the entire dash and interior has to come out
    You should install a new heater core at this time as ther is no extra labor to do so so add another couple of hundred for parts
    This is not a job for the fainthearted either

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    641

    Default

    Ok JRL.....Clarifications:

    riginally Posted by 8pack
    Most likely (Approx parts prices...no labor! might be off doing from memory):

    Bevel Gear $1500
    Propshaft $450 Rebuilt
    Brakes all around $400
    Axles $200 Each
    Control Arms $150 Each
    Rear Shocks $350 Each
    Front Shocks, seats etc $250 Each
    ABS module $150

    $60

    Evaporator (do heater core same time) $600 ($1500 for someone else to do it). I overestimated here..did it from memory, you win...$300 if you do it yourself

    Other potential:
    ETM - Used $200-$400, new $1000
    Radiator $250
    Viscous coupler $350 - QUALIFIER - JUNKYARD USED.WHERE? PLEASE LET ME KNOW AND I'LL BUY A HALF DOZEN


    2000
    Rear Drive Shaft
    Volvo 70 Series (AWD)- VISCO CLUTCH A TJ021 $350.08 Erie Vo-Vo, Inc. USA-NY(Whitesboro) E-mail 1-888-



    Thermostat and Temp sender (cheap and easy)$100
    Rear tailgate wiring -Self fix
    Emergency brakes seize or delaminate - $150 ($35 Cable, $35 Pads, $20 HArdware kit)
    MUCH MORE - DISAGREEE-brake cables- $150
    AGAIN, MUCH MORE -DISAGREE
    ASSUMES ALL WORK DONE BY YOURSELF. NOT RETAIL REPAIR PRICES...I am 90% correct.
    2020 Subaru Outback XT - Pearl White Loaded-huge improvement over 2013!
    1955 Ford F-250 - 223 IL6, 4 Speed with Granny Gear, 109 HP, 4.88 Rear
    2017 Maserati Ghibli - Blu Emozione - GONE!
    2013 2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 110k miles
    2007 2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 215k miles
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Devon PA
    Posts
    11,409

    Default

    E Brake cable job costs much more unless you do it yourself, not the easiest of jobs and what is $350 viscous coupler?
    I don't think I would trust a used one of those unless it has real low miles.

    I guess they dropped their prices on VCs, they used to be 5-$600 from Erue (retail) a few years ago.
    I suppose they can't sell expensive Gen 1 parts anymore or people either won't or can't afford to fix them
    BGs are $600 used, but Erie and most places are out of any good ones

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    central Pa
    Posts
    64

    Default

    I would like to offer another viewpoint based on my experiences during nearly 14 years of ownership of a 1998 V70XC. Please take with a grain of salt when statements are made such as "every **** fails on these cars at such and such an interval". I have replaced the following major components during 257,000 miles of ownership: turbo (at 200k), driveshaft (at 225k), E-brake cables and ABS module. More significantly, this vehicle has all its original suspension parts except for front struts and sway bar links. The HVAC is all original and works perfectly. Except for the tailgate latch, all door locks and power windows have never failed. The engine uses less than one quart of oil between changes (5,000 mile interval). Last month I changed the oil/filter for the 51st time.
    This forum is an invaluable source of information, but beware of assuming that everyone's ownership experience is the same.
    2010 XC70 3.2 Caper Green, PCC, BLIS, premium package, climate package.
    1998 V70XC 250K+, driven every day.
    1987 240DL wagon. Gone, but not forgotten.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks for the all of the feedback.

    I looked at a 99' yesterday; about 130k miles, needs tires, no maintenance records, A/C does not work, one of the power windows was dead, cracked headlight lenses, minor body damage, binding in the drive train during tight turns, dead battery...............I think I'm going to pass on this one and keep looking.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    142

    Default

    I'm going to chime in on redoak's side. Statements like this -

    Not all these things are guaranteed to go wrong but at least 1/3 will in the next 2 years.
    ...are a bit extreme. I have had my V70 XC for 4 years and have had a total of $457 in repairs, and that includes a $70 tow. Basically it has been two engine mounts, a brake caliper, an ignition coil and a loose PNP wire. If you add wear items like brake rotors and pads it goes up a bit, but I could not be happier with my car's reliability (other than the time it wouldn't start in a Home Depot parking lot... hence the tow).

    Everyone's experience is different. I see lots of these older cars being driven in my area and I cannot believe they would still be on the road if every one had thousands of dollars in repairs every year.
    Last edited by instarx; 01-05-2012 at 06:52 PM.
    2000 V70 XC SE
    165,000 miles and runs great.
    Total repair costs over last 65 months: $720 (about 1.5 car payments);
    Best single tank mileage ever: 32.8; Average mileage: 22.2; City: 18

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