Vibration when comin to a stop

[Seamus]

Thanks for the responses.

Yesterday I cleared it, went for a ride and allowed high rpms to see if it would throw a code. It did after a couple of runs. So I cleared it, and today I drove carefully not even reaching 3K rpms and no light yet. I called the indy that did the tbelt and it's going in either Monday or Tuesday to check the timing

Something is telling me it's the cam position sensor because there is hard start ups pretty often

[Seamus]

Ok. I just started it up, and what comes on? CEL. My code reader is at home but I'm almost certain its the p0014 code

[jdp6000]

I f you had the belt replaced they could have put it in a tooth off. They did that to my father inlaws car. I was getting your code plus "left bank over advanced". The repositioned the cams put the belt back on and the problem was solved.

I think you are mixing two things. These cars always vibrate. 10 times worse in the winter....don't know if its cold where you are. I replaced the upper engine mount and saw an improvement. I just replaced the one just below the timing belt cover....vibration is almost gone. I believe I have two more mounts to go. The main engine mount and the one on the transmission or near the transmission.

Jim

[Seamus]

I hope it's as simple as the tbelt being a tooth off. And the vibration is probably from the winter and the poly mount, but idk why the rpms would go down and up. It does it less when it's warmer out so it's probably the cold

[JayPinNC]

I f you had the belt replaced they could have put it in a tooth off. The did that to my father inlaws car. I was getting your code plus "left bank over advanced". The repositioned the cams put the belt back on and the problem was solved.

I think you are mixing two things. These cars always vibrate. 10 times worse in the winter....don't know if its could where you are. I replaced the upper engine mount and saw an improvement. I just replaced the one just below the timing belt cover....vibration is almost gone. I beleive I have two more mounts to go. The main engine mount and the one on the transmission or near the transmission.

Jim

I suspect this is my problem as well. Lots of vibration in the steering wheel even at idle. RPMs are fine - prob need some new engine mounts tho.

[Astro14]

Several simulateous issues.

Yeah, worn mounts cause the engine to vibrate more than usual, and yeah, I've replaced all of them. I found that the poly trans torque mount from IPD on my T5 added a bit of vibration, so it didn't go on my wife's XC...the Poly upper mount caused WAY too much vibration, so it came off the T5 to be replaced by the factory mount.

So, likely your problem is felt more because of worn mounts.

But, with RPM fluctuating, it's caused by something else.

T-belt off by a tooth? That would do it! It will also be sluggish on power (valve timing matters..and the ignition timing will be triggered by the crank...) and you haven't mentioned power...

so, first, fix the poor engine idle - that needs to be resolved.

Next, replace the mounts - you're due anyway, and then the engine will feel much better to you...

[jdp6000]

I hope it's as simple as the tbelt being a tooth off. And the vibration is probably from the winter and the poly mount, but idk why the rpms would go down and up. It does it less when it's warmer out so it's probably the cold

You need to get the basic maintenance stuff out of the way. Throttle body should be cleaned. Yes it could be the MAF sensor. I don't think either of these things will throw the code you are getting. Sounds like you need them to double check the cam positioning for that.

You need to eyeball your throttle body from the bottom, see if its all carboned up. Pull the hose that attaches to it and use a mirror to look up. To clean it right it really needs to come out but you maybe able to get up there with out removing it. Use throttle body cleaner.

My car runs good. But I have had the throttlebody cleaned,pcv service, replaced plugs, changed two engine mounts and had the software updated.

Funny thing is I was getting a code for a leak in the EVAP system before the software update....was told it was either the hose or the EVAP solenoid. Expensive job either $200 if its the hose or closer to $350 if it was the solenoid. Software update at $50 cleared it up, no more code.

I know the mounts on these cars are a major contributor to the annoying vibration. My driveway is uphill. In the winter when the temp is minus 5 or 10 the vibration is worse, On flat ground better. In the summer not even noticiable. But its still there so I still need to do something else. I'll figure it out sooner or later.

I forgot to ask. Did you have the up/down idle before the timing belt change?

[Seamus]

You need to get the basic maintenance stuff out of the way. Throttle body should be cleaned. Yes it could be the MAF sensor. I don't think either of these things will throw the code you are getting. Sounds like you need them to double check the cam positioning for that.

You need to eyeball your throttle body from the bottom, see if its all carboned up. Pull the hose that attaches to it and use a mirror to look up. To clean it right it really needs to come out but you maybe able to get up there with out removing it. Use throttle body cleaner.

My car runs good. But I have had the throttlebody cleaned,pcv service, replaced plugs, changed two engine mounts and had the software updated.

Funny thing is I was getting a code for a leak in the EVAP system before the software update....was told it was either the hose or the EVAP solenoid. Expensive job either $200 if its the hose or closer to $350 if it was the solenoid. Software update at $50 cleared it up, no more code.

I know the mounts on these cars are a major contributor to the annoying vibration. My driveway is uphill. In the winter when the temp is minus 5 or 10 the vibration is worse, On flat ground better. In the summer not even noticiable. But its still there so I still need to do something else. I'll figure it out sooner or later.

I forgot to ask. Did you have the up/down idle before the timing belt change?

The idle never dipped down before the tbelt change, and it didnt do it right after either. The idle is fine except when stopping. I'm hoping getting the timing right will fix this. BUT, I was driving home a few mins ago, and it's been pouring all day so the roads are soaked, and now it's snowing very hard. And I heard a tiny squeal come from the engine compartment. The lights dimmed a little but it was fine after that. So maybe it's the accessory belt? I don't know, just another idea

And about the emissions. I was getting the emission code forever, and it would always go back on when the cel was turned off. But it went away and has never come back. It might be from the cold weather, idk. I think this winter alone did the equivalent of 20k miles wear and tear on the car

[billr99]

The idle never dipped down before the tbelt change, and it didnt do it right after either. The idle is fine except when stopping. I'm hoping getting the timing right will fix this. BUT, I was driving home a few mins ago, and it's been pouring all day so the roads are soaked, and now it's snowing very hard. And I heard a tiny squeal come from the engine compartment. The lights dimmed a little but it was fine after that. So maybe it's the accessory belt? I don't know, just another idea

And about the emissions. I was getting the emission code forever, and it would always go back on when the cel was turned off. But it went away and has never come back. It might be from the cold weather, idk. I think this winter alone did the equivalent of 20k miles wear and tear on the car

The serpentine belt would have nothing to do with your problem. As you have indicated, the symptoms and course of events sound like you've slipped timing by a tooth or so. The squeal is a but worrisome as it might indicate a roller not right. Since you've had a fairly recent belt change, a check of your TB and associated rollers would be the most logical first thing to sort out, then go from there if that doesn't fix it. Simple things first is the best way.

Good luck,

Bill

[Seamus]

That makes me feel better. I'll see what my Indy says on Tuesday, they put the belt on, so they're gonna fix it if the timings bad. Hopefully that solves a lot of the problems