Removing propshaft- best way

[myzomela]

Years later - Chilled Man's hint about a pin in the "extra" holes was just what I needed for a recalcitrant tailshaft. (OK, prop shaft for those across the Pacific. One of those little linguistic differences which can making searching car forums such an adventure.) This forum is gold

I'm in the middle of replacing my turbo. Next stop the angle gear. This job has been a b*****d from the beginning. To add to the fun, the car is right hand drive so the brake booster is very close to the turbo, and made removing the heat shield that bit harder.

[DYZ]

What pin? Could you elaborate? I'm in the middle of removing the propshaft and just couldn't get the rear joint off the flange. There are 4 extra holes in the back (2 threaded 2 unthreaded) and I've been punching through the 2 unthreaded holes to no avail. Thanks!

DYZ

[DYZ]

UPDATE: I yanked the leftover propshaft out of the joint. So now only the outer cage of the joint is still stuck in there. I don't think it'll ever get loose but I put the screws back on. The car drives nicely as a FWD

DYZ

[howardc64]

UPDATE: I yanked the leftover propshaft out of the joint. So now only the outer cage of the joint is still stuck in there. I don't think it'll ever get loose but I put the screws back on. The car drives nicely as a FWD

DYZ

Wow, pretty amazing the remainder won't come out. Basically the outer cage for the CV joint and the end cap (bottom left of this pic) is all that remains. I can see the end cap being rusted on where you live. But the outer ring for the CV should come out since only thing holding it to the end cap is sealant between them. Unless rust made its way in and locked both of these components in tight against the Haldex input.



I guess doesn't matter in any case, prop shaft is cut so no going back to AWD now. You do get to enjoy more power and +1 mpg