Hello all, I was dreading doing this job but with the right tools it really wasn't that bad at all.
You will need a few things:
A fresh razor blade
1/4 drive ratchet
12-16" long 1/4 drive extension
1/4 drive universal joint
T30 Torx bit for your 1/4 drive(My T30 was in 3/8 drive so I knocked it out of the holder and installed it into my T25 holder which is 1/4 drive)
Flat bastard file(fine)
Blue locktite
Vaseline
Contact Cement
This is what you will be looking at when you first start:
(this is a picture after I resealed it, I started taking picture a little late and missed them when I first got started, but you will get the idea)
The first thing you will need to do is remove the clamp that bolts your turbo drain line to the turbo coolant line.(I didn't get any pictures of this but it is self explanatory. Next you will need your 1/4 drive ratchet with your extension, universal joint and your T30 socket.
You will need to remove the two bolts that hold the turbo drain line onto the bottom of the turbo, not bad with this setup. Once the bolts are removed you will need to work the drain line up out of the block, just some gentle back and forth motion while pulling straight out and it will pop out. Chances are the o-ring that is on the bottom of the tube will still be in the block, just take a small o-ring pick and remove it gently, making sure not to push it into the block.
When you have it removed it will look like this:
Scrap the old gasket off with a razor blade:
One thing I have learned about turbo drain lines is that they always leak for a reason, and the main reason being is that the flange that bolts to the bottom of the block isn't flat. You will need to take a file and make sure its flat.
Here you can see that I made a couple of passes on the flange, you can clearly see the low spots:
After a couple more passes:
Nice and flat: PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE Make sure you wash out the tube with some brake clean in one direction and then in the other a couple of times and then blow it out with compressed air, making sure you have got all the metal filings out of the tube.
What I always do is put some contact cement on the gasket and the drain line so you won't have it fall off while you are under the car trying to hold it straight while you try and start the bolts.
What it looks like when its setup and stuck on the line:
Next you will need to install the o-ring on the other end of the line. I always install the o-ring on the drain line dry and then once its on the line, lube it up with Vaseline, or I use DOW cornering compound(valve stem lube).
Now your drain line is all ready to go.
Now comes the hardest part(for me anyways), cleaning the turbo where the line bolts up to the bottom of it. You must make sure you get this as clean as possible, otherwise this entire job is a waste of time.
I just took a regular razor blade and shoved my hand up there and just started scrapping it off.
All cleanpicture didn't come out very good)
You will then lube up the bore where your line slides into the block, after that is done, go ahead and slide the line into the block and get it lined up.
You will need put some blue locktite on the bolts so the won't work loose.(DO NOT USE RED LOCKTITE)
Apply a small amount of locktite to the bolts:
You will then need to put a bolt on the end of your torx bit and thread it into the bottom of the turbo by hand, once that is done, go ahead and get the other one started. You don't want to crank one down and then crank the other down, you will want to tighten up each on a little at a time until they are around 10 ft. lbs. I forgot my 1/4 drive torque wrench but you can easily get it tight enough with a short 1/4 drive ratchet.
Next install your clamp to your coolant line and you are all done. Enjoy your leak free car.
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