2002 XC70 Transmission Nightmare - EVERYONE PLEASE READ!

**Mad Cune** · 12-06-2010, 09:51 AM

I think I am gonna go buy some of this stuff. Do I then need to have my trans flushed? Please any more feedback regarding this stuff would be great. I am desperately interested!

**JayPinNC** · 12-06-2010, 10:01 AM

Originally Posted by Mad Cune

I think I am gonna go buy some of this stuff. Do I then need to have my trans flushed? Please any more feedback regarding this stuff would be great. I am desperately interested!

Try this thread: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...anstune&page=2

**sjonnie** · 12-06-2010, 10:12 AM

Originally Posted by Mad Cune

I still get the surges shifting from 2 to 3rd gear.

Did you replace the B4 servo cover already? I think '01 transmissions all had the style that was prone to failure giving 2/3 shift issues. Replace that firs then do the TransTune.

**Mad Cune** · 12-06-2010, 12:28 PM

Thanks for the info, I am scheduling the XC for service on the B4 Servo this week at an independant shop. Keystone Volvo said it would be a couple of $100. The part is $20 on IPD and I see the job may take less than an hour. I don't see a couple of $100 worth of service in that time. I guess I will then do the Trans Tune too. However, I had the Tranny flushed in May, I don't think i need to do that again. If I don't, would the Trans Tune still be an option? Or should I get it flushed again and use the Trans Tune?

**sjonnie** · 12-06-2010, 12:56 PM

B4 Servo cover is a bit of a pain in the ass, but for an experienced shop they should be able to do it very quickly. For the TransTune, do what it says on the can, add some to the transmission, run the car with the TransTune in there for a hundred miles or so, then drain the pan and refill with new fluid. Shouldn't be necessary to do a flush if the fluid is still in good condition.

**Astro14** · 12-06-2010, 04:41 PM

I did the B4 servo cover on the XC in about 30 minutes. The IPD instructions are good. Half of that time is getting the car up on the ramps and removing the engine pan. The real PITA part is getting the internal snap ring in place while holding the servo cover into the trans against the pressure of the internal spring. When I did the T5, it took more like 15 minutes (I had learned the technique better, I guess...).

For Mad Cune - you might consider a valve body. B4 Servo cover is a quick update to eliminate that part as a causal factor. Valve body wear could be causing exactly what you describe (my wife's XC had exactly the same "flare") but I'm not able to diagnose from a forum thread. A new body is about $1100, $500 rebuilt. Labor will be the big deal - local dealer quoted $1500...but indy shop might be a lot less. That job is a real PITA, but do-able, see the resources section for a how-to.

9K after the valve body replacement, the XC is shifting perfectly.

**andmon** · 12-07-2010, 12:17 AM

Can i change the 50-55sn gearbox to a 50-42le box? What modifications on the wiring must be done then?

**Astro14** · 12-08-2010, 04:27 PM

I don't know enough to know if this is possible, so I can't answer (there may be some who can) but the question, really, is why?

The changover would require the new trans to fit physically (bolt patterns, output shaft sizes, length, etc.) and interface with the computer (for shift coordination, etc). My guess is that while the 50-42LE might bolt up to the block, the driveshafts would be problematic...and then there's the ECM...

But the question is why? In later MY XCs, the trans is very reliable. In earlier years, rebuilt units are equally reliable. An updated, or later model AW55-50SN can live behind the 300HP "R" model, so it will survive behind the LP turbo engine of the XC.

So the question of changing over becomes "why". You don't gain in reliablity over a newer or rebuilt unit, but you introduce a multitude of potential interface problems...

**cattlecar** · 01-16-2011, 04:50 PM

I have repaired a "lost" band anchor a few times. First remove air cleaner and tie anything that is in the way back with mechanic's wire.
You remove plug and then get a screw driver, smaller size, with about a 6 inch or a bit longer shaft and you go forward in the hole with of screwdriver up( handle end pushed down). Then lift screwdriver handle and "roll" screwdriver to push the end of band to rear to get it in the opening. I had one I couldn't pull back around like this and had to use a cheaper screwdriver and curve the shaft for a little more forward insertion distance.
The band is a flat steel strap with friction lining bonded to it. The end that bolt anchors is a formed thicker steel piece with a sharply rolled ridge on it with a formed pocket. The end of the infamous bolt sits in the pocket to keep the band end in place. You are trying to catch the pocket and rotate it back to the rear. Once you have it rolled around then push it a bit to the rear and continue to hold it to get oil push out of the servo chamber. The servo will have a fluid fill and you need to displace some fluid to get the end of the band to stay put so you can insert the anchor bolt. IF you release the screwdriver and the band anchor pocket moves back to where bolt want go in then repeat the process and pry harder to get servo released so the band stay put for the bolt to be inserted.
I had one that wouldn't and I did PLAN B.
Plan b is taking the bolt and drilling through the center with a less than 1/4 inch drill, the screwdriver you will use needs to be skinny as the bolt will be slid all the way up the screwdriver. You can't drill the bolt with too big a hole or the end will break off when band is putting load on it. Tap the hole you drilled part way down with an appropriate tap and then find a short screw that fits it. You will seal the hole in bolt with this screw and some sealer when you are done.
Use screwdriver to retrieve and move band end into position and then run the bolt down screwdriver shaft and screw it in while holding the band end with the screwdriver until the bolt is all the way threaded in. Tighten the bolt and then apply silicone sealer to underside of the the small plug bolt head and install it. If you have a copper washer assortment the small plug bolt could be sealed with an appropriate copper seal washer.

You may have to use a piece of rigid wire bent to do this task if the screwdriver isn't working for you.

Pictures of the band with the end brackets.

**sailsboats** · 02-01-2011, 06:57 AM

I'm just here to say thanks to Cattlecar for the procedures to "lasso" a "lost" band clamp. I had to employ his "Plan B" procedures but they worked and worked brilliantly. For almost two years I've been driving that car around in manual mode carefully skipping over third gear which was a huge pain in the rear. After only a couple of hours effort I took the car out last night and enjoyed a "normal" driving experience. Thanks Cattlecar for helping me dodge a multiple thousand dollar transmission replacement.