Oka:
I don't see anywhere in this thread what VIDA shows for errors. Do you have any and could you post those?
Cheers,
Bill
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Type: Posts; User: billr99
Oka:
I don't see anywhere in this thread what VIDA shows for errors. Do you have any and could you post those?
Cheers,
Bill
Track width is indeed narrower in the rear of an XC by 60mm, 30mm for an R or V70AWD.
What I do when I "string" a car is remove the hub cap and measure from the head of the axle bolt. The...
Bump steer is defined as "the term for the tendency of the wheel of a car to steer itself as it moves through the suspension stroke". In other words, when a front wheel, typically, hits a bump the...
If what you are asking is what the range is if you do not use camber bolts in the front, I would say with what I have seen in my 3 P2s that generally its about .5 to .75 degrees plus or negative...
If this car has been used in a high salt environment (i.e. the sea side) for a good part of its life, check the union where the turbo oil feed line leaves the block. It is right under and a bit...
Of course, you won't as the OEM bushings are bonded to the bar and Volvo apparently sees no reason to allow people to go the inexpensive option. Just verify your bar diameter and match up...
As a suggestion, I use front end links, usually Moog, on all my P2s that are actually listed for a 2001 Chrysler Concorde. They are the same design and length as the Volvo ones but the rod is close...
Do you have any lights on on the dash. Anything in the "Message Center"? All of your symptoms match up with what I had in a '02 XC when it lost its alternator but in that case I had a "Power...
Yeah, you should really have something closer to 13.8 or so and I do know these cars are critical when it comes to both correct voltage and current. Keep in mind that it is possible to show correct...
I've had great luck with Deep Creep. Seems the only penetrant that will work here in this salt air.
Cheers,
Bill
Because in any kind of environment with salt and road crud, the damn things seize to the spindle and its pretty easy to break the arm, the washer nozzle, or even screw up the spindle. So I suspect...
First thing to get when you get a Volvo and the smartest money you will ever spend on it is to get yourself a VIDA-DiCE setup. With that bit of kit, you can scan with some accuracy to help you nail...
Wouldn't hurt. I use Deep Creep that is really effective in this salt air environment. But I would think that you wouldn't have too bad a time with rust there in Spain, would you?
Cheers,
Bill
I've always used one of these pry bars (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3318-15-Inch-Utility-Pry/dp/B000NPT67K/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Wrecking+Bar&qid=1551965670&s=gateway&sr=8-2). Just put it between the...
One thing to also note, is that the inner mounting bolt (i.e. the one toward the center of the car) for these links is eccentric and used to adjust rear toe. So when you change out the link, you...
Rear toe link or rear control stay (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-control-arm-kit-rear-stay-12-piece-s60-v70-xc70-s80-xc90-genuine-p2rcaktp12).
Cheers,
Bill
That's right. I would say common convention has #1 cylinder at the "front" of the engine. Typically where the water pump or crank pulley would be. Now with some of the new engines with things like...
Not to worry. There are days that I wish I was back in my '93 RR LWB instead of having to delve into the brains of either of my '05 Volvos. Might have gotten crap mileage but it started and went in...
Not really. I'm an old IT guy so I just used an old Dell laptop I had laying around and made a dedicated VIDA scanner out of it. VIDA isn't hard to do if you start from scratch and put nothing on...
You have to pull the nose off the car but what you will probably find is that either the washer pump (separate from the windscreen one and more expensive too) is seized or the pump-to-tank seal is...
I would suggest a VIDA scan to see if it picks up anything that might connect the two systems for this. Each system is controlled by a different CPU which might say that it isn't those but might...
Usually when that happens, the big bearing/gear in the motor unit is seizing up. Over time the grease they use stiffens up and the big nylon bearing/gear hangs on the metal plate. When that happens...
So it is still working right? If it is parking in the wrong spot, simply take a 8mm (I think) wrench, undo the nut and pull the arm forward on the shaft just enough to free it from the splines. Then...
I`m guessing here but when you replaced the shifter did you also replace or at least adjust the selector switch on the gearbox? Sounds to me like that switch, which determines what gear you have...
A bit of 3/8 rod bent to shape and either welded to the tailpipe or clamped on with a exhaust clamp. Any muffler shop or a garage that knows how to weld should be able to help you out. Not a bid deal...