home | news | features | forums | product reviews | resources | photos | marketplace | contact |
2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Maroon)
2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)
The Factory speakers are a unique shape and mounting hole spacing - they are not a standard size like a generic 4 inch, a 4x6, etc.
So - your generic speaker will not fit in the hole the Volvo speaker came out of properly, unless you rig some sort of custom surround. You lose fidelity if the speaker is not sealed to the door panel and air escapes around the edge of the speaker.
Whenever I've had to replace a speaker on a newer Volvo (that i owned) - I would simply source a used (good) one -
You can use 4 ohm speakers, and likely they will work fine. You may not get the max volume that an 8 ohm speaker would have provided because your amp is "working harder" to drive 4 ohm speakers and theoretically won't have the same max oomph when driving the lower impedance speaker. But speaker rating is kind of an average and varies with frequency anyway. So IMHO go ahead. And let us know what you do for the mount...
Objects in closer are mirror than they appear.
On the other hand, 4 ohm speakers draw more current than 8 ohm and therefore put more stress on the amplifier, so if the amp isn't designed to handle the higher load it could lead to overheating and failure. It really depends on whether the design is sufficient to drive a 4 ohm load. I'd guess it probably is. (And there would be less risk if not listening at high volume levels). However, without knowing whether anyone has been successful using 4 ohm speakers I'd still be inclined to stick with the OEM spec of 8 ohm.
'04 XC70, Ash Gold / Taupe, Premium, Touring, Tinted Rear Glass, Rear Skyddsplåt, Wing Profile Load Bars, USA Spec 11,
StonGard Light Protection, Yokohama YK740 GTXs, Meyle HD Sway Bar Links, ipd HD TCV, subframe & top brace poly bushing inserts,
TitaniumTim XC Cup-holder Coasters.
Shouldn’t you get the car running first, before messing about with the sound system?
Current Fleet:
2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)
2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Maroon)
2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)
I put Infinity component speakers in my front doors, and Infinity coax in the rear doors, both with roll off caps so they weren't sucking as much power trying to play low frequencies they weren't really good at. Although I used to be super into audiophile stereo gear and did elaborate installs, I simply added the Volvo big amp under the passenger seat to drive the capped speakers, and the Volvo subwoofer under the rear deck. It's very, very satisfying. Sorry, just reminiscing.
'04 XC70, Ice White, Taupe. Original owner (196K miles as of may21). 6 wheel bearings, broken ignition switch, broken turbo downtube flange, failed throttle body, many warped rotors, and a myriad of weird crap. Still my favorite car ever.
Bookmarks