Has anyone here replaced their steering rack?

**shadyraven** · 04-01-2007, 05:21 PM

My steering rack leaks and needs to be replaced. I'm thinking of replacing it myself this spring/summer. Has anyone here undertaken this repair? Where can I source a work manual for these cars?

**coolwhipdefuser** · 04-02-2007, 10:42 AM

I think you might be able to find a copy of VADIS on ebay, but as far as having done that thankfully I haven't had to. You should get a reply soon enough.

**JRL** · 04-02-2007, 01:16 PM

I've done about 5 of these (Gen 1 cars).
Not too bad a job, figure about 3 hours.
You can buy a VERY good aftermarket rack from fcpgroton for about $230 or so

**shadyraven** · 04-02-2007, 05:19 PM

Originally Posted by JRL

I've done about 5 of these (Gen 1 cars).
Not too bad a job, figure about 3 hours.
You can buy a VERY good aftermarket rack from fcpgroton for about $230 or so

Does this repair require the engine to be supported during the swap? I know with some cars the weight of the engine must be released slightly to remove and install the rack.

**JRL** · 04-02-2007, 08:41 PM

Originally Posted by shadyraven

Does this repair require the engine to be supported during the swap? I know with some cars the weight of the engine my be released slightly to remove and install the rack.

No No
Just put it on a lift and start wrenching.
If you're doing this yourself for god's sake don't forget to work the air out of the system before you put the wheels back down on the ground or you will have all sorts of noises and groans for days until it works itself out

**shadyraven** · 04-02-2007, 11:04 PM

Originally Posted by JRL

No No
Just put it on a lift and start wrenching.
If you're doing this yourself for god's sake don't forget to work the air out of the system before you put the wheels back down on the ground or you will have all sorts of noises and groans for days until it works itself out

I was under the impression I had to unbolt and support the sub-frame while removing the rack.

**arejohn** · 04-06-2007, 10:04 AM

I had to lower the sub frame to get the rack out. Maybe I missed something.
There are two vendors for the rack. Only one of which was acceptable for core credit. I can't remember which. I had the non-acceptable by most parts stores but was acceptable at autozone or advance. Groten can help identify. Shop arround.

**knucklebuster** · 05-02-2007, 08:32 PM

Just replaced the rack on my '99 XC70. Access to some of the bolts was a challenge. I lowered the subframe as recommended in my manual but could not slide the rack clear of the rear drive output shaft (from the angle gear). So I loosened left and right motor mounts, dropping only the subframe - not the motor. Subframe and engine were each supported by a hydraulic jack - used plywood under the engine to prevent damage.

My subframe shifted a bit and had to be nudged back into position using heavy duty ratchet straps and I replaced the bolts as recommended. These are torque to yield, so it's best to buy new bolts for the subframe. I found this a really grueling job to do in the driveway. I'm sure it goes much more smoothly in a shop. My advice to you is pay the 4.5h of shop time if you can afford it.

So far this is the hardest thing I've done (compared with heater core, timing belt, rad, rear driveshaft).

Of course we do love working on these cars, don't we.

**auser** · 05-04-2007, 12:39 AM

Here is repair info from a Volvo Master Service Tech.

http://volvospeed.com/maintenance.shtml

and the rack overhaul:

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/power_steering.pdf

If you care to fix it yourself.

**knucklebuster** · 05-04-2007, 07:38 AM

Excellent instructions auser. I wish I had that link a month ago. . .

This car is not AWD. If yours is, then the motor mounts probably have to be loosened. If somebody can tell me they did it without that step, OK, but I did not have enough clearance between the subframe and rear drive shaft to extract the rack. Two hydraulic jacks and two axle stands were required.

This instruction also talks about removing the rack out the RHS. But it's a RH drive car, so you will quickly see that it has to come out the driver's side. And yes, there are brake lines, ABS sensor wires (ouch) and fuel lines to watch out for. Some of this work is done blind, so do be careful with wrenches as well as yanking the rack out. My car is driving beautifully now - and no fluid trails behind me!

Just one more point before I exceed the maximum word count. Your rack will have pressed-in studs, similar to wheel studs. I sent off my core with these studs in place, but my remanufactured rack came without the studs. Stupid gits can fit more cores on the shelf if they knock those pesky studs out. The devil is in the details.

Best of luck.