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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    85

    Default Water Pump Question

    Hello. 04 XC70 165k. Having coolant leak. Appears to be right below water pump. Good guess thats what it is. I might remove the TB cover just to make sure. I imagine there would be coolant trickling from the water pump. (Does WP have a weep hole or does it come from the gasket?). Anyway, 165k is not far from TB change interval so I'll probably do that too. Any other part I should replace?

    Any other advice on how to verify that its the water pump or something else? The last time the TB was done was at 98k. Also, any advice or reference material if I decide to do it myself?

    I have an ex Volvo dealer mechanic who may be able to do it.

    Thank you.
    IF IT AIN'T BROKE - DON'T FIX IT!
    04 Volvo XC70 5LT 143k "Floatey" Ruby Red, Valvoline 0W40
    07 Honda Accord V6 120k Silver, Napa 5W20 Blend
    07 Honda Accord L4 130k Bronze, Napa 5W20 Blend

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    85

    Default

    In watching various videos including FCP, positioning the cams looks easy enough. What I'm confused about is the adjustment of the belt tensioner when reinstalling it. Can anyone elaborate on this please?
    IF IT AIN'T BROKE - DON'T FIX IT!
    04 Volvo XC70 5LT 143k "Floatey" Ruby Red, Valvoline 0W40
    07 Honda Accord V6 120k Silver, Napa 5W20 Blend
    07 Honda Accord L4 130k Bronze, Napa 5W20 Blend

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,130

    Default

    Water Pump has a weep hole. They're usually good for 150+ thousand miles. It's about time. The belt tensioner is easy. Installing the belt and keeping the cams aligned is hard. Mark the cam pulleys and the crank pulley with a bright orange pen so that you can see the marks clearly. I use a paint pen to highlight the timing marks. Tensioner is tensioned by rotating (and I can't remember if it is CW or CCW) the the fitting on the front with a 6mm allen wrench. Then you snug down the bolt.

    Then, and this part must be done, crank the engine over, by hand, with a big socket, twice. That will put the crank and the cam pulleys back on their marks. Check them closely. Then reset the tensioner. Where the little post lines up depends on temperature.

    You absolutely must crank it over twice and recheck. When you do, be certain that you see the crank pulley mark and the cam pulley marks lined up precisely. Not close. Exact.
    Current Fleet:
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