2010 XC70 3.2 rear differential compatibility - What other yrs models fit?

[RJK]

Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me with what years and model cars have rear carriers that fit my 2010 XC70 3.2. Most salvage yards list compatible cars but they are not always the same and Volvo's parts site lists many more that have the same part number. The reason I don't trust the Volvo site is the replacement rear is a reconditioned one that is ordered by Vin #. For example Volvo says a 2012 XC60 rear is the same part # but salvage yards interchange number is different and have told me it won't fit. Does anyone know what really will interchange as there are more 2011 and 2012 lower miles rears than 2008-2010? The rear on my car failed due to the large steel plug for the Haldex (looks like a freeze plug) fell out and it dumped the oil and ruined everything including the case. My car has just over 100k and I don't want to put a high milage rear in it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[franticvike]

I'm looking into this now, apparently you can rebuild with parts from Land Rover LR2, same rear diff. So maybe you could find a whole rear diff from that model?

[vova]

I would try contacting erievovo salvage yard and they would most likely have correct part for you. Plus they will give you lifetime replacement warranty on it. Nice and knowledgeable people.
Or looks like this people fix them as well. You can try to find someone local to do the same.
https://atlanticmotorcar.com/casestu...-and-solution/

[franticvike]

I recently had mine rebuilt. Has been flawless since then. There are local shops here and there that will do it. There's also a place on the east coast that you can send your busted one into and they'll rebuild and send back. In my case a rebuild was about $3k Canadian. A used diff from a wrecker was about $1200 plus labour to install. Used diff is just a ticking time bomb in my opinion on these cars. Clearly a very common issue that should've been recalled.

[RJK]

Hi, I hope this info helps. I bought a differential from Erievovo and they have different pricing depending on miles. They only have lifetime warranty on a few diffs, but most are 6 months or 1 year. I went with a 6 month unit for $600 because all used ones are a gamble and I lost that bet. Nine months in and 4,000 miles later it was humming. I decided to rebuild it myself with Timken bearings and OEM seals. I bought a cheap socket to weld a bracket on for the pinion nut and I had a junk Haldex unit that I cut the hub out of and welded to a deep socket to hold the splined pinion shaft. The hardest part was getting the bearing races out of the case. Some of the races are blind so you can't get to the back of them. Patience and a little swearing and they will come out. Specs are available online and you can reuse the crush sleeve as long as it is the same pinion shaft going back in. All in all it went well and it runs silent. I have about 4,000 on the rebuild and the parts with oil was about $300. The case on my original was bad so rebuilding that one was never an option and I will say pulling the rear subframe to get the diff out was a pain. Without a lift I put the front wheels on ramps then used a second set of ramps sideways in front of rear tires on the jacking spot and used wood on top to cradle the mount. This gave enough clearance to drop subframe with a floor jack and a chunk of 2x8 on top. To those who responded, thanks for the info even though my response is a little late. Have a great day

[RJK]

I would try contacting erievovo salvage yard and they would most likely have correct part for you. Plus they will give you lifetime replacement warranty on it. Nice and knowledgeable people.
Or looks like this people fix them as well. You can try to find someone local to do the same.
https://atlanticmotorcar.com/casestu...-and-solution/

Hi, I hope this info helps. I'm in Saratoga NY so I bought a differential from Erievovo and they have different pricing depending on miles. They only have lifetime warranty on a few diffs, but most are 6 months or 1 year. I went with a 6 month unit for $600 because all used ones are a gamble and I lost that bet. Nine months in and 4,000 miles later it was humming. I decided to rebuild it myself with Timken bearings and OEM seals. I bought a cheap socket to weld a bracket on for the pinion nut and I had a junk Haldex unit that I cut the hub out of and welded to a deep socket to hold the splined pinion shaft. The hardest part was getting the bearing races out of the case. Some of the races are blind so you can't get to the back of them. Patience and a little swearing and they will come out. Specs are available online and you can reuse the crush sleeve as long as it is the same pinion shaft going back in. All in all it went well and it runs silent. I have about 4,000 on the rebuild and the parts with oil was about $300. The case on my original was bad so rebuilding that one was never an option and I will say pulling the rear subframe to get the diff out was a pain. Without a lift I put the front wheels on ramps then used a second set of ramps sideways in front of rear tires on the jacking spot and used wood on top to cradle the mount. Make sure the car is level as this will make oil fill accurate after install. This gave enough clearance to drop subframe with a floor jack and a chunk of 2x8 on top. To those who responded, thanks for the info even though my response is a little late. Have a great day