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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    248

    Default Pictures of latest tranny flush. Also a couple questions:

    I have a 2004 XC70 that has been a wonderful car over the 15 years we have owned it. It now has 170,000 miles and I have replaced a lot of parts over the years keeping it in tip top shape. Looks new inside and out still. My question is about the transmission. It is still original and I have taken care of it. I had the dealer flush it with a machine at 50,000 miles when we first bough it used as a lease return. Then a drain and fill at 81,000 miles in 2012. Then I found out about the Gibbons method on this forum and started doing those. So my transmission has been serviced like the following:
    -50,000 miles-dealer flush machine(100% new ATF
    -81,000 miles- drain and fill on 2/2012
    -85,500 miles-Gibbons method with 14 qts on 7/2012
    -115,000 miles- Gibbons method with 12 qts on 12/2015
    -145,000 miles-Gibbons method with 12 qts qts on 6/2019
    -171,000 miles-Gibbons method with 13 qts on 8/2022

    So I try to do it about every 30,000 miles now. It always comes out a nice red color but not clear like new fluid. I use Toyota T-4 ATF. Its my wifes car and she is gentle with it and it has always shifted smooth and flawless. Based on this, how long do you think my transmission will last? How long do these go for with good maintenance. The first picture is the old fluid that came out in the beginning of the gibbons flush. The second picture is the last ATF that came out after 13 qts went through. Least couple pictures are the car.






  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,083

    Default

    Sweet car. Short answer - keep doing what youíre doing, itíll last as long as you keep the car. Long answer on BITOG.

    Cheers,
    Astro
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    248

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Sweet car. Short answer - keep doing what youíre doing, itíll last as long as you keep the car. Long answer on BITOG.

    Cheers,
    Astro
    I responded over on BITOG. have you ever seen this engine and/or transmission go 300-400,000 miles? I'm hoping for 400K with the extreme care I give it....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    639

    Default

    220k miles 2007. I have done a basic 3.2qt drain and fill every 15k miles or so. Twice I have done the 12 quart flush. My transmission continues to shift smoothly with no issues.

    A few tips:

    I have been in the northeast since I got mine and I have found that it likes 0-40 Mobil 1 the best. I change my oil every 7,500 miles with a few longer intervals over the life of the car. I burn about a quart between oil changes. That is about what it burned new.

    At 175k…
    At one point it appeared I was burning oil much more frequently and figured out it was the PCV system that needed updating. It was causing leaks in several areas. I changed that out and no more leaks.

    I also dropped the pan and cleaned it as well so I could check the oil pick up and return and be sure there was no sludge in it. A much easier job than it seems but you just use the Volvo gasket maker.

    There is an oil tube coming out of the turbo charger near the back of the engine. I forget what it is called. Change the gasket and O ring (I think there is an O ring but maybe just a gasket). Mine had a slight leak.

    The corrugated plastic vent tube that goes over the top of the engine under the cover crumbled and I had oil pooling in the top of the motor. Check that out. If it is brittle they make a replacement rubber one that is bullet proof.

    I changed the Rear differential and haldex oil. It was pretty black and ugly. Good preventative maintenance move. On a high mileage vehicle I feel that the haldex in particular is at risk of failure.

    The car has no oil leaks anywhere.

    Check your lower motor mounts on both sides. Super easy to do, yiu just need to jack up the motor a bit to get the mounts out once they are unbolted. If you never changed they are likely broken and separated. I never did the rear mount. Check the front pivot mount as well. That one is really is to see if there is an issue and it is super easy to change.
    My sway bar bushings need to be changed but I haven’t been able to bring mys LC to spend that much time under the car.

    After all that maintenance everything has been pretty solid. I have had a few minor things here and there but nothing major. Rear brake shoes seem to delaminate and last time it broke the ceketeringvtab in my knuckle which then needed to be replaced. Whenever you do rear brakes replace the rear parking brake shoes as a precaution.
    2020 Subaru Outback XT - Pearl White Loaded-huge improvement over 2013!
    1955 Ford F-250 - 223 IL6, 4 Speed with Granny Gear, 109 HP, 4.88 Rear
    2017 Maserati Ghibli - Blu Emozione - GONE!
    2013 2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 110k miles
    2007 2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 215k miles
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,083

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SkagSig40 View Post
    I responded over on BITOG. have you ever seen this engine and/or transmission go 300-400,000 miles? I'm hoping for 400K with the extreme care I give it....
    Well...as we close in on 300,000, I'm going to have to say, Yes! :-)

    The wife's XC has 286,000 right now. Runs perfectly. I'm going to do the subframe mounts, still a bit of a clunk over bumps.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    South Lake Tahoe, CA
    Posts
    636

    Default

    That is impressive. My 2003 has 130,000 miles and I am trying to figure out what to do to ensure a long life. I have done one Gobbons tranny flush and will do another soon. The angle gear has had one fluid change at about 60,000 miles. What about the rear differential and the Haldex? Anything else I should do?

    Thanks for any advice you can give.
    Wait Griswold
    2003 XC70
    South Lake Tahoe, CA

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,186

    Default

    If it's not overheated, not pushed hard, ATF kept clean, it will run until frictions wear out completely. Which almost never happens if the car is highway driven, without much gear changes.

    I'm not a big fan of 3309 or T-IV, in my butt feeling they lack a proper amount of friction additives. When I had my transmission rebuilt last year, the new frictions were soaked in Volvo ATF. The transmission was then filled with T-IV. It was driving butter-smooth for about 2 days and then the quality of shifts started to degrade lightly. This is the Volvo ATF modifiers wore out from the frictions. I know it is ATF, because the transmission has got a brand new valve body, worn casing was fixed, and all the gaps were properly measured and set by my own hand, etc.

    Volvo has changes in TCM shifting logic, it allows more of controlled slip, which demands more/better friction modifiers in ATF. I fixed T-IV fill temporarily with Lubegard HFM (heh, that was a year ago already), but 1161640 jug is ready for the next convenient ATF change.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,083

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wgriswold View Post
    That is impressive. My 2003 has 130,000 miles and I am trying to figure out what to do to ensure a long life. I have done one Gobbons tranny flush and will do another soon. The angle gear has had one fluid change at about 60,000 miles. What about the rear differential and the Haldex? Anything else I should do?

    Thanks for any advice you can give.
    Change the Haldex fluid and filter - if you havenít done it, do it now. Iím a 60,000 mile guy for differentials, so both angle gear and rear differential. A fluid extractor is a huge help for all three. Use only Haldex fluid in the Haldex, and good quality 75W90 synthetic gear oil in the differentials.

    I made the angle gear much easier by adding a drain plug when I sealed it. Talked about that modification here:

    https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showt...d-modification
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

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