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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    639

    Default Emergency brake assembly broken

    I was driving my 2007 XC70 and out of the left rear came a couple of huge clunks and then a grinding noise. I suspect broken/separated ebrake shoes which I had happen once before. I took it apart and thatís it exactly what it was. EXCEPT a large metal lug which sits between the green new of the brake pads facing the rear of the car broke off which looks like it was attached the knuckle/hub. Itís made of cast or pot metal. Not exactly sure but in any event it looks like a very big and expensive job to repair.

    A couple of questions:

    -Can you give me insight as to what parts need to be replaced to get it back in order?

    -Do I need to replace the parts or can I get the ebrake to work well enough on the passenger side to pass inspection. Basically,only use the right side?

    The car has 221k miles on it, the timing belt should be replaced and I have a small Evan leak somewhere. It is one big repair away from the scrap heap but it barely burns any oil, the interior is in stellar shape for its age, I have pretty new tires on it, exhaust was replaced 3 years ago, PCV upgrade/repair has been done and many other things. All major maintenance is done regularly including transmission drain and fill every 15k miles.

    So if I can pass inspection and keep it on the road I would like to. Any and all advice appreciated!!





    Pic of the broken part. HAVING TROUBLE UPLOADING I keep getting an error message. Never had this problem before
    Last edited by 8pack; 08-22-2022 at 04:29 PM.
    2020 Subaru Outback XT - Pearl White Loaded-huge improvement over 2013!
    1955 Ford F-250 - 223 IL6, 4 Speed with Granny Gear, 109 HP, 4.88 Rear
    2017 Maserati Ghibli - Blu Emozione - GONE!
    2013 2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 110k miles
    2007 2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 215k miles
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,083

    Default

    I believe itís the caliper bracket assembly that has that parking brake boss on it. Not terribly expensive. Might have to pull the rear wheel hub to replace.

    Time to visit the Volvo parts counter folks and look at their high resolution photos. Make sure my memory is accurate.

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...0-xc70-8251314
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    639

    Default

    Thanks!

    Definitely not that bracket. It is behind the rotor in the ebrake mounting area. It is tang that sticks out. I will try and find it online but it looks like it is part of the hub.

    How about the reality of just using the right side for the parking brake to hold during inspection?
    2020 Subaru Outback XT - Pearl White Loaded-huge improvement over 2013!
    1955 Ford F-250 - 223 IL6, 4 Speed with Granny Gear, 109 HP, 4.88 Rear
    2017 Maserati Ghibli - Blu Emozione - GONE!
    2013 2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 110k miles
    2007 2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 215k miles
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    639

    Default

    It looks like I need the entire rear knuckle. Itís $415 just for that one part. I am not sure it is worth it if The emergency brake will work on just the passenger side. It needs to pass inspection in a month and is good for another year. Not sure if I need any special tools if I wanted to do it.

    Big bummer.

    https://www.volvopartscounter.com/oe...ItNWwtbDUtZ2Fz
    2020 Subaru Outback XT - Pearl White Loaded-huge improvement over 2013!
    1955 Ford F-250 - 223 IL6, 4 Speed with Granny Gear, 109 HP, 4.88 Rear
    2017 Maserati Ghibli - Blu Emozione - GONE!
    2013 2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 110k miles
    2007 2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 215k miles
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,083

    Default

    Rats - the whole knuckle? I would do it, though. A good running car is worth quite a bit these days. I don't think the brake will work on just one side - you won't get enough "pull" if one side doesn't have enough resistance, I think.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    639

    Default

    Yes, unfortunately the whole knuckle. I have never had an issue loading photos to this site before. Especially from my phone but I keep getting an error. If I could load the pic you would see why.

    Ok. I will probably do it. It looks like a bigish jobÖ.a lot going on back there. Hopefully I donít need a special tool for anything.

    Thanks!
    2020 Subaru Outback XT - Pearl White Loaded-huge improvement over 2013!
    1955 Ford F-250 - 223 IL6, 4 Speed with Granny Gear, 109 HP, 4.88 Rear
    2017 Maserati Ghibli - Blu Emozione - GONE!
    2013 2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 110k miles
    2007 2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 215k miles
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    583

    Default

    My car just passed inspection but I'm not sure exactly how they tested the emergency brake. You could stop the car on an incline, put it in Neutral, and apply the Parking Brake. If the car doesn't slip, maybe you'd have a chance?
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    639

    Default

    Got the knuckle off. Took about 45 minutes. If I did it again it would take 20mins. The labor is pretty easy. Found a tip on here to press the hub off by passing 2 bolts through the wheel lug holes and tightening them against the knuckle. Came off in 60 secs.

    Ordering parts today. That is the most painful part. $450 for the knuckle plus all the brake parts.

    Astro, like you said a decent running vehicle is not cheap these days so it will be worth it. Thanks for the encouragement.
    2020 Subaru Outback XT - Pearl White Loaded-huge improvement over 2013!
    1955 Ford F-250 - 223 IL6, 4 Speed with Granny Gear, 109 HP, 4.88 Rear
    2017 Maserati Ghibli - Blu Emozione - GONE!
    2013 2013 Subaru Outback - charcoal Grey, Eyesight Collision Avoidance 110k miles
    2007 2007 XC70, Barents Blue, Charcoal Leather 215k miles
    1978 Bitchin' Chevrolet Z28 Camaro - Fuel Injected 383ci SB Dyno'd at 452HP 462FT/LBs Torque
    My build thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276139

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,083

    Default

    Good news! Crazy times right now - a good running Volvo is a treasure - and I would know, I've got four of 'em...

    Cheers!
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    176

    Default

    It looks like you've already dropped the coin, but a wheel carrier is generally a good part to replace with a salvage part. Only concerns would be excessive corrosion or being bent in an accident, so just pull it off a car that hasn't been hit. Other option is to weld the broken part back to the wheel carrier. Cast iron can be welded.

    Brett

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