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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

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    Well, low compression on that cylinder would explain the misfire. The head has to come off to see what’s going on. Hopefully it’s in the head - damaged valve, etc. and not in the block - like a damaged piston.

    Do you have a bore scope? Would love to know what a camera sees in that bore.

    Not sure what units you’re reading on the compression gauge, but the LPT engine is about 9.0:1 compression, so you should see at least 160 or so PSI. I know that more than 9x14.7 but it’s about how much you see on a healthy 9:1 engine.

    Consistency across readings is the real test and a low cylinder is a cause for concern.
    Last edited by Astro14; 12-13-2021 at 07:41 PM.
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    20

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    I picked up a bore scope and was hoping to get the one that you can rig up to look up at the valves. No such luck on that. Everything looks ok to me, im surprise the cross hatch is still so visible. I'm gonna pull the vc and check the cams first if everything looks ok then off with the head! Here are the photos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...3b?usp=sharing
    Last edited by RockOcean; 12-21-2021 at 10:08 PM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    20

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    I finally got to taking the head off and sure enough one of the exhaust valves is burnt or is it chipped? I do not see any sign of a chipped off piece damaging anything. The cams and cam journals all look to be in good condition. I'm just gonna replace that valve, all the valve seals, and lap all the valves. Are there any other parts that are recommended changing while the heads off besides the water pump, timing belt and tensioner? Thinking I might replace the steering rack at this time also since it looks way easier to get to now.



    20220129_094633 by RockOcean.com, on Flickr


    20220129_094734 by RockOcean.com, on Flickr


    20220129_094959 by RockOcean.com, on Flickr


    20220129_095015 by RockOcean.com, on Flickr


    20220129_095032 by RockOcean.com, on Flickr


    20220129_095259 by RockOcean.com, on Flickr


    20220129_095634 by RockOcean.com, on Flickr

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    20

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    Sorry got pretty busy and had to put this on hold for a bit. I ended up taking the head to a local machine shop and they said that the valve seat must have been warped for the valve to look like that. And if I didn't repair it I would just crack another valve. They said the only way to tell would be by re-cutting the valve seat. They couldn't give me a solid estimate so I decided to lap the valves and replace the seals myself. All went well until I realized I needed a $250 tool to check the valve clearance. So I just decided to put it back together and hope that the clearance would be close enough. Well, it seemed to run great the first test run and then the check engine came on with the same misfire code again. I thought the machine shop must have been correct and the warped valve seat cracked the new valve. So I just decided to just get a remanufactured head for $700 from Odessa Cylinder Heads in Clearwater, FL. Taking off the head and putting the new one on was so much easier the the 2nd time :~ ) Come to find out the valve looked totally fine once I got the head off. So I knew the valve clearance must have been off enough to throw the misfire code still.

    But after installing the new head I was getting ECM-6400 & 6410 Camshaft reset valve - Signal too low codes along with the following:

    ECM-4000 Canister purge (CP) valve - Signal too low
    ECM-4010 Leakage detection module, ventil - Signal too low
    ECM-4024 Leak diagnostic unit, pump - Signal too low
    ECM-6800 Turbocharger (TC) control valve - Signal too low

    I reset the timing a few different times knowing that it was spot on. It is interesting the first time I put on the head with the new valve and seals I did not get any of these codes only the Misfire #3 code. But now I am getting these code even with setting the timing 3 times knowing its spot on. One thing I have noticed is that the engine will idle perfect then all of sudden have a rough idle then go back perfect. If you rev it while the idle is rough it revs rough, but when idling perfectly it revs perfectly. For the most part when driving it drives perfect, but every now and then for a little bit it will run super rough. This leads me to believe that it is something electrical causing it to run rough sometimes but good most of the time. I noticed the engine ground was hanging on by a thread so I thought that's gotta be it! Well after replacing that - it wasn't! The car also has a parasitic draw that will kill a battery in 5 days if left hooked up to the battery. I decided to take the car out for a test run again and it starts just fine but the idle is rough, then it will go good then back to rough like an on and off switch once warmed up I took it out for a spin and it ran great for about 10 miles with no check engine light but still showed the same codes. I cleared the codes to see if they would come back, they did and the check engine light is now on where it wasn't for 10 miles?? Super strange. Any how anyone have any suggestions on where I should start to get this sorted out? I have a Vida setup.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

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    Quote Originally Posted by RockOcean View Post
    I ended up taking the head to a local machine shop and they said that the valve seat must have been warped for the valve to look like that.
    It is bad valve stem seals and oil with high calcium content. Oil drips down the valves, burns off and purges away, calcium stays in cylinders as a cement-like substance. It chips off relatively easily, chunks get jammed between valve face and seat. Valve overheats and burns off, just like on the picture. Same thing happened to me 2 years ago. I've rebuilt most of the engine (didn't touch crankshaft), it still works great.

    Quote Originally Posted by RockOcean View Post
    Any how anyone have any suggestions on where I should start to get this sorted out? I have a Vida setup.
    What's your short/long term fuel corrections? It will tell you if you have a vacuum leak.

    Also check for camshaft adaptation angles. It will tell if the timing is within tolerance.

    Also I'd take ECM out and spray contacts with QR electric cleaner, just in case it has corroded contacts.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

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