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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Default Sticky Oil on #3 Spark Plug

    Hello all,

    I have a 2003 XC70 with 240K on it. I recently got a CEL for ECM-3503 & 3533 Misfire cylinder3 - start up . Changed all the plugs and replaced that coil pack still getting those codes.. I just pulled that plug again after it has idled for about 10mins and it is noticeably black with a little sticky oil on it compared to another plug. I just need one little fitting to test the compression so will do that next. Just wanted to see what ya'll might think at this point?


    Can you not insert photos on here?


    Here is a link:
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/142s...ew?usp=sharing

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Virginia Beach
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    4,059

    Default

    What kind of plugs are those? They don't look like the plugs that are recommended at all.

    Honestly, I would start with a new coil (Bosch, from FCP Euro) for that cylinder, and a set of proper Iridium plugs, like Volvo OEM, or NGK 4589s.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #3
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    Nov 2017
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    MT
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    What kind of plugs are those? They don't look like the plugs that are recommended at all.

    Honestly, I would start with a new coil (Bosch, from FCP Euro) for that cylinder, and a set of proper Iridium plugs, like Volvo OEM, or NGK 4589s.

    They are the same plugs and coil packs that have worked just fine for the past 40k miles. Will let you know exactly what brand and part numbers they are when I get home tomorrow.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Virginia Beach
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    Default

    Your car came with Iridium. A fine wire electrode. That fat electrode is far different.

    And you have a misfire.

    So…
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    MT
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Your car came with Iridium. A fine wire electrode. That fat electrode is far different.

    And you have a misfire.

    So…

    I see what you mean with the Iridium fine wire electrode. But like I said, I ran a set of these same plugs NGK BKR6E and TPI coil packs for the past 40k miles with no problems at all. I appreciate your suggestion but I don't think buying what you suggested is going to make any difference. The new parts I replaced them with have obviously proven they are quality parts by lasting over 40k miles and the coil packs will probably last for 40k or more. I'm a believer that middle range parts will last just as long as Genuine or OEM at a third of the cost. FCP actually sells the Bosch version of this plug 0242235666 for the XC70 , and NGK lists BKR6E as proper fitment for the XC70 on their site.

    I am still waiting on a fitting for my compression gauge to test that. In the meantime today I was hoping to test my injectors via Vida. The one thread I came across said click on ECM then go to Advanced and scroll down to "Fuel Correction". I only had 5 options under Advanced, and Fuel Correction was not one of them. I did find in one of the other menus the injector activator. I do have power going to it and it sounds like the others. The PCV system tests fine via the glove method, it actually seems to have some vacuum as it sucked the glove down slightly?? It has a slight hesitation when starting but fires up almost normally. The idle is rough but it drives fine. I have a fuel filter so I am going to change that out. My part for the compression gauge wont get here til Monday so I got some time. Does anyone else have any suggestions on what I might want to check in the being? O yeah is it even possible to check the injectors via Vida? If so how can I do that? Almost forgot there is power going to the coil pack, and I swapped them around to make sure it was not bad.
    Last edited by RockOcean; 12-02-2021 at 07:02 PM. Reason: Added info

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    San Diego
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    Default

    I watched a test on youtube a couple days ago that may apply here. Yes, I watched youtube, and now I'm an expert. LOL. But seriously, this may be where this test is relevant. You've already tested the electrical part of the injector. It clicks when you command it, but that doesn't tell you if fuel is actually being delivered. The test is to manually fire the injector while monitoring the fuel pressure. The youtuber manually jumped power to the injector momentarily to fire it, but you should just be able to acitvate the injector as you have already. So, put a fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve, turn the key to on once or twice to pressurize the system. Observe the pressue. Make sure it is stable. Fire the injector. The pressure should drop with each firing of the injector. If not, fuel isn't being delivered even though the injector solenoid is operating. How much should the pressure drop? I don't know. Maybe compare to another injector. You don't want to do this a lot and fill the cylinder up with fuel, but it seems a reasonable thing to try to ensure you're getting fuel to the cylinder.

    At 240K miles, I'm thinking it's time for a cam and set of lifters. Do you have any excessive valve ticking? Collapsed lifter?

    Brett
    Last edited by Brett San Diego; 12-02-2021 at 07:26 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    MT
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    Default

    Thanks Brett I appreciate the feed back. I will try that method, I assume fuel pressure gauges are pretty standard and affordable I hope. LOL Youtube University is pretty awesome sometimes. I actually drove the car for about 30 minutes today and wanted to see how the plug looks after doing that. It is still slightly darker then the others but it doesn't have the stickiness like it did before.. One thing I did notice that should mean its the injector is that the #3 cylinder smelled of gasoline where as the others really didn't. Fingers crossed - will swap around some injectors this weekend and see what's good. Thanks again! Sorry I forgot.. There is no excessive valve ticking.
    Last edited by RockOcean; 12-02-2021 at 07:56 PM. Reason: Added info

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    Default

    While you're waiting - I would swap the #3 injector with another injector.

    If the misfire follows that injector - you've found your culprit.

    If not, it's in the coil/spark.

    You'll need some o-rings, but for a quick test, you should be OK. Keep everything meticulously clean. Lube the o-rings with silicone.

    If you determine that it's an injector, send them off to this guy: https://hurstinjectorservice.com/

    Paul is a mechanic with 40+ years of experience. He's done a couple sets of my injectors. All in, with shipping, he'll run about $100, which is half the cost of a new set.

    My XC got the injectors done by Paul at about 240,000 miles. Far smoother afterward, though it had no misfires before, the equalization of flow across the set made a huge difference.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RockOcean View Post
    One thing I did notice that should mean its the injector is that the #3 cylinder smelled of gasoline where as the others really didn't.
    That would indicate no spark. The fuel isn't getting burned. Swapping the injectors is a good test, though. I see you already put in a new coil. I'd check for spark. Pull the coil off the plug. Put a spare plug in the coil boot. Start the engine and hold the plug near the engine to ground it. Careful, high voltage. It should spark. Or, the safer method is a spark tester designed for doing this.

    Brett

  10. #10
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    Nov 2017
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    MT
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    Default

    I swapped around the injectors and did not get the code to change. I checked for spark and it has spark. I did the compression check and got 100 on all cylinders but nothing even registered on the number 3 cylinder. My compression reader is for diesels so imagine that is why they read so low. But with the other 4 all reading the same something is obviously wrong with Cylinder #3. I did a Wet test and nothing changed so I am quite sure it must be a valve problem and time for a head rebuild. What do you think?

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