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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    577

    Default Thermostat With Or Without Hole/Valve

    Two parts stores I checked don't have a thermostat with a hole/valve in it. What's up with that? I am used to using ones with a little hole/valve at the top plate. Can I use one without that?

    Thanks
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
    2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Parked since 2017)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    577

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oka View Post
    Two parts stores I checked don't have a thermostat with a hole/valve in it. What's up with that? I am used to using ones with a little hole/valve at the top plate. Can I use one without that?

    Thanks
    Just found this post: https://www.tccoa.com/threads/techni...d-holes.56182/

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,057

    Default

    Are you asking a general question? Or asking for a recommendation for your Volvo? In your car, get the one with the bleed hole, so that trapped air behind the thermostat can be better bled.

    Best way to handle bleeding your cooling system is a vacuum lift, which is about $70 on Amazon. You’ll greatly reduce the amount of air in the system after cooling system work.

    For brand, I would go with a Behr. Skip the local parts stores. I’m often disappointed by the quality and fit of parts for my Volvos when I’ve bought at a parts chain. Specialty Euro, or Volvo OEM, for me every time.
    .
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/...=5&b=6&d=55&v=
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    41

    Default

    Did not realize some MY of these vehicle you could just replace the stat. All mine were full-assembly PITA jobs. 1/4" flex-head ratchet, 6" extension, with 1/4" socket, with T45 taped inside of it made it slightly easier this one looks like a breeze to replace. I bought a "Gates" stat for one car, and a "FACET" stat for the other. Both are performing quite well.
    Hers- 04 XC70 2.5T, 300KM
    His- 04 S60 2.4, 310KM

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Rugby UK
    Posts
    426

    Default

    Defo "with": the thermostat should be replaced along with the new rubber seal so that the pin hole valve faces forward - this is the highest point in the cooling circuit. Doing so will ensure that the system burps any air and allows propper circulation of the coolant. NB Some people advocate parking the car heads up to a gradiant to enhance the burping. I find that all that is necessary is to fill the coolant header tank to Max and then take the car on a 1/2 hour run. The coolant will find its optimum level. PS When I replace the thermostat I also replace the coolant temp sender (22Nm torque) simples!
    MY01 Ocean Race XC70 Blue/Silver

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