Page 4 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 76
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    577

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oka View Post
    Attachment 9530
    Hey folks. I have been searching to find instructions on how to really use this tool. I saw lots of instructions, but none show the procedure to attach it. This is one part I don't want to mess up. If you have any link, please send my way.
    Cheers.
    Found something that would help (@ 13:15). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4We7wbtwbI
    Last edited by Oka; 09-24-2021 at 08:36 PM.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    577

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    . . . . Highly recommend a cam locking tool, . . . .
    1. Now, am stuck. Below is what I have in my engine.
    How do I use the tool to lock both the cam and the crank?
    My crankshaft end looks different from all I've seen on line.
    2. For the camshaft cap/plug, can't it be reused, if so,
    is there a nicer method/trick of removing the existing cap?
    Thanks.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Cam Crank Shafts.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	94.5 KB 
ID:	9533

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    576

    Default

    As for question 2, my cap/plug was destroyed in the removal process. Not sure if there's a way to preserve it for re-use. A new cap wasn't very expensive, maybe $5-10 from FCP.

    Question 1. I think a separate tool was provided in my kit to lock the crank. It had something to do with sticking a piece of steel in a slot in the engine behind the starter. It may have required removal of the starter but I decided to skip this step when replacing my blown cam seal. Instead I marked my crank with a black felt tip pen before removing the timing belt to make sure the crank was aligned when I put the new timing belt on. (If working on the starter, make sure you disconnect your battery.)
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,059

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    As for question 2, my cap/plug was destroyed in the removal process. Not sure if there's a way to preserve it for re-use. A new cap wasn't very expensive, maybe $5-10 from FCP.

    Question 1. I think a separate tool was provided in my kit to lock the crank. It had something to do with sticking a piece of steel in a slot in the engine behind the starter. It may have required removal of the starter but I decided to skip this step when replacing my blown cam seal. Instead I marked my crank with a black felt tip pen before removing the timing belt to make sure the crank was aligned when I put the new timing belt on. (If working on the starter, make sure you disconnect your battery.)
    This.

    I got a new cap, and I skipped locking the crank, because it all times correctly if the crank is aligned with the timing mark.

    The crank locking part of the tool does require removing the starter. If the crank pulley was disturbed, that would be super useful but it isnít really needed in your case.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    577

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    As for question 2, my cap/plug was destroyed in the removal process. Not sure if there's a way to preserve it for re-use. A new cap wasn't very expensive, maybe $5-10 from FCP.

    Question 1. I think a separate tool was provided in my kit to lock the crank. It had something to do with sticking a piece of steel in a slot in the engine behind the starter. It may have required removal of the starter but I decided to skip this step when replacing my blown cam seal. Instead I marked my crank with a black felt tip pen before removing the timing belt to make sure the crank was aligned when I put the new timing belt on. (If working on the starter, make sure you disconnect your battery.)
    Looking closely at the crankshaft end, there is a bolt in the middle of the "cup" I removed the get that drum-like "cup" off.

    I know the plug is not expensive, but living in Anchorage, Alaska, it may take a few days to get to me if ordered. I plan on finishing the whole job this weekend. Need to get the car ready for winter. We already had snow falls. The way I removed the plug, I can easily fix it; but I'll wait till Monday to call the dealer in town.

    When I removed the cam plug, a good amount of oil oozed out. The bottom part of the plug is stained, that indicates the oil has bee sitting there for a long time.
    When I removed the drum-like cup at the end of the crank end, just a little oil poured out, much less than the cam side.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    577

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    As for question 2, my cap/plug was destroyed in the removal process. Not sure if there's a way to preserve it for re-use. A new cap wasn't very expensive, maybe $5-10 from FCP.

    Question 1. I think a separate tool was provided in my kit to lock the crank. It had something to do with sticking a piece of steel in a slot in the engine behind the starter. It may have required removal of the starter but I decided to skip this step when replacing my blown cam seal. Instead I marked my crank with a black felt tip pen before removing the timing belt to make sure the crank was aligned when I put the new timing belt on. (If working on the starter, make sure you disconnect your battery.)
    The way I removed the plug, I should be able to fit it and reuse it. Though, I plan on calling the dealer on Monday to see if they would have it. I plan on finishing the job this weekend. We already have snow fall and need to get the care ready for winter.

    The locking tool I have would not require getting to the starter.

    The first thing I did before starting such job was disconnect the battery. Thanks for the warning!!!

    Thanks

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    577

    Default Tensioner Setting

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Tensioner1.jpg 
Views:	2 
Size:	27.7 KB 
ID:	9535
    I am going to replace the timing belt, water pump and the serpentine belt. For the tensioner, in the repair manual, I see the instructions as in the attached picture. I need some clarifications.

    Currently on the car, my tensioner is like in "A"; has it been wrong all along?
    Ambient temp in the garage is 50F, Engine is cold. Would any of these really mater?
    When installing the new tensioner, it should be as in "B" before tightening the bolt, right?

    Thanks.
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
    2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Parked since 2017)

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,059

    Default

    Yes, B is correct at 20C.

    Yes, it matters.

    Yes, yours has been wrong all along.

    When you do the belt, then turn the engine over with a wrench at least 720 degrees. Check your timing marks and tension. Don’t be like the last bozo and get the tension wrong. You’re lucky he at least got the timing correct.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (114K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (50K, Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (six speed M66, Mobil 1 5W30)
    2002 V70-XC (275K, HPL Euro 0W30)
    2002 V70-T5 (216K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (120K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    577

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Yes, B is correct at 20C.

    Yes, it matters.

    Yes, yours has been wrong all along.

    When you do the belt, then turn the engine over with a wrench at least 720 degrees. Check your timing marks and tension. Don’t be like the last bozo and get the tension wrong. You’re lucky he at least got the timing correct.
    Thank you so much for the info!

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    577

    Default Oil Pressure Release Valve In Oil Sump

    The oil pressure release valve (OEM# 463963) in my oil sump, as a valve, when I cleaned and blew on it, on both directions, air went through. Looks like the valve is bad, being a valve. I had wanted to just put it back there and don't worry about it so it won't interrupt my work. Reluctantly, I will order it.
    2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
    2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
    2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
    2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
    1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)
    2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Parked since 2017)

Page 4 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •