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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,016

    Default

    IPD would be my first choice since, in over 20 years, they have never sent me the wrong part. I've received parts for the wrong model year a couple of times from FCP. I use FCP for my Mercedes, and while they're great, I would stick with IPD.

    Next, you don't need a rear crank seal. Unless you plan to pull the engine and transmission apart, which isn't needed.

    Next, clean the bottom of the car however you like. IF you're able to hose it down with Simple Green and wash it all off, great. Some environments, like mine, near the beach, where it all goes into wetlands, don't allow for that. In my case, brake cleaner and cloth rags, wiping down what I can see, worked well. I needed a couple cans of brake clean and good cotton rags that don't fall apart. Don't use chlorinated brake cleaner, that stuff causes some strong fumes that you really don't want to inhale. Non-chlorinated will be just fine. Still want good ventilation. I have a fan the blows fresh air under the car when using that sort of stuff.

    Next, NO, there is no gasket for the oil pan. None.

    That's where the anaerobic sealer comes in. Use only that. No RTV. The surfaces must be clean and dry. Really dry. So, use a plastic razor blade to remove the old sealant and to avoid scratching or gouging the mating surfaces. DO NOT use abrasives of any kind. You'll destroy the mating surfaces and likely the engine when a few abrasive particles get where they shouldn't be. Clean it with the razor blade, then brake clean with a good rag. Clean, dry, and follow the sealant directions. Use new o-rings between pan and block. The oil pick-up is part of the pan. The pump is part of the block. Those o-rings ensure the performance of the pump and must be replaced.

    Add this kit to your list: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/1129...0750783-124721

    It will have more parts than you need. Read IPD's product description for more insight into the job.

    You have to do the cam seals first, or the engine will puke out all its oil again. So, cam and crank seals and timing belt (with water pump if you choose). But, then you need to get the PCV system/pan drop done or the engine will push out the cam seal you just replaced.

    The order doesn't really matter since you need to do this all at once or you will have problems again.

    This gives you the torque for the oil pan: https://www.volvoxc.com/wp-content/u...eplacement.pdf

    XC Andy gives a good write up on the PCV system here: https://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/...EPLACEMENT.pdf
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (110K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (272K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (215K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (110K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    540

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    IPD would be my first choice since, in over 20 years, they have never sent me the wrong part. I've received parts for the wrong model year a couple of times from FCP. I use FCP for my Mercedes, and while they're great, I would stick with IPD.

    Next, you don't need a rear crank seal. Unless you plan to pull the engine and transmission apart, which isn't needed.

    Next, clean the bottom of the car however you like. IF you're able to hose it down with Simple Green and wash it all off, great. Some environments, like mine, near the beach, where it all goes into wetlands, don't allow for that. In my case, brake cleaner and cloth rags, wiping down what I can see, worked well. I needed a couple cans of brake clean and good cotton rags that don't fall apart. Don't use chlorinated brake cleaner, that stuff causes some strong fumes that you really don't want to inhale. Non-chlorinated will be just fine. Still want good ventilation. I have a fan the blows fresh air under the car when using that sort of stuff.

    Next, NO, there is no gasket for the oil pan. None.

    That's where the anaerobic sealer comes in. Use only that. No RTV. The surfaces must be clean and dry. Really dry. So, use a plastic razor blade to remove the old sealant and to avoid scratching or gouging the mating surfaces. DO NOT use abrasives of any kind. You'll destroy the mating surfaces and likely the engine when a few abrasive particles get where they shouldn't be. Clean it with the razor blade, then brake clean with a good rag. Clean, dry, and follow the sealant directions. Use new o-rings between pan and block. The oil pick-up is part of the pan. The pump is part of the block. Those o-rings ensure the performance of the pump and must be replaced.

    Add this kit to your list: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/1129...0750783-124721

    It will have more parts than you need. Read IPD's product description for more insight into the job.

    You have to do the cam seals first, or the engine will puke out all its oil again. So, cam and crank seals and timing belt (with water pump if you choose). But, then you need to get the PCV system/pan drop done or the engine will push out the cam seal you just replaced.

    The order doesn't really matter since you need to do this all at once or you will have problems again.

    This gives you the torque for the oil pan: https://www.volvoxc.com/wp-content/u...eplacement.pdf

    XC Andy gives a good write up on the PCV system here: https://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/...EPLACEMENT.pdf
    With FCP, I have never received the wrong part if I call them to confirm the parts. It's an issue if I input my car and order the parts, since their system sees the sub-model (XC70), but will not report the parts for it; so, I would have to call them always. I will try IPD.

    Definitely, using the right torque is important. I was going to get the torques anyway, but thanks for making it all handy.

    I stopped using chlorinated brake cleaners. They are awful. I have some non-chlorinated.

    Thank you so much for all the information you've given me, well appreciated. I will order the parts and start work as soon as possible, before winter hits; though I'll be working in the garage. One thing I will do as well would be to flush the transmission. I already did it on the other XC.

    Thanks again; will report back on my progress, the soonest.
    Cheers and stay safe enough.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    540

    Default

    Got the IPD parts yesterday, but am under the weather and will start work soonest.

    One question. I would need to move the car into the garage; no oil.
    The day this oil loss happened, I had reversed into the driveway. That day, I drove it around the cul-de-sac to face the garage. Now, I would need to get it inside the garage when am ready to start work. My goal is to put it in "R" as soon as the car starts, for about four feet, and right away in "P", to drive into the garage. Don't need to have the engine idle. If not straighten up, I can use the floor jack to straighten it up. Would my idea damage anything, considering there is not oil in the system?

    I need to replace my oil filler cap seal. Would one from my local store be ok?

    Cheers.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,016

    Default

    Running the engine for more than a second or two without oil pressure will begin to cause damage. Putting a load in the engine, using it to move the car, without oil pressure will absolutely cause damage.

    You may have already damaged it. Donít make this worse.

    Buy some cheap oil, fill the crankcase to normal level. Then start and move it.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (110K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (272K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (215K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (110K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    540

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Running the engine for more than a second or two without oil pressure will begin to cause damage. Putting a load in the engine, using it to move the car, without oil pressure will absolutely cause damage.

    You may have already damaged it. Donít make this worse.

    Buy some cheap oil, fill the crankcase to normal level. Then start and move it.
    I'll tape up a large plastic sheet underneath, fill it up with oil and then move it.

    Thank you for the warning.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    540

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    . . .
    You will need a cam locking tool. I bought one by ABN for about $75 on Amazon. It shows out of stock for now. Similar type tools exist.
    . . .
    I am so pissed with myself thinking the parts stores here would have the locking tool in their loner bunch, to start on the project this weekend. No store has it!!!. Silly me, if I had ordered one, by now I would have gotten it. Thinking about it, I would need my own tool, since I would need it in my other cars.

    I saw these:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/27411700546...sAAOSw9a9gWa9L

    https://www.amazon.com/Youxmoto-Cams...800368&sr=8-10

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    540

    Default

    When I get to the project, it looks like I would have to remove the computer modules and it's housing to have a good view/space for the job. Right? And for that, I would need the tool for removing them.
    Last edited by Oka; 09-04-2021 at 10:52 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    550

    Default

    When I did the PCV and replaced a blown cam seal on my 2002 V70XC I didn't need to remove the computer modules/housing. I may have taken the top cover off briefly for a little more room, not sure. I did have to lift out the power steering and coolant reservoirs. To do the PCV job I drained the coolant from the reservoir first. The power steering reservoir had to be unclipped from where it attaches to the coolant reservoir, but I could just move it out of the way enough without having to drain fluid or detach hoses.
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    540

    Default

    Hello folks, I have dropped the oil pan.

    1. The oil cooler. Does it need to be washed/flushed? If so, any pointers?

    2. The fuel injectors. Clean them or take it to the pros to clean?

    Cheers
    Last edited by Oka; 09-21-2021 at 10:23 PM.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,016

    Default

    The oil cooler doesn't really need cleaning, but those weird, green o-rings must be replaced.

    I would not try to attempt cleaning injectors yourself. You're unlikely to make a difference, and you can't replace the little screen filters, which have either deteriorated, or filled up with trapped debris. Send the injectors to this guy, he's great:

    https://hurstinjectorservice.com/
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (110K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (272K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (215K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (110K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

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