Massive Oil Leak

[Oka]

Attachment 9530
Hey folks. I have been searching to find instructions on how to really use this tool. I saw lots of instructions, but none show the procedure to attach it. This is one part I don't want to mess up. If you have any link, please send my way.
Cheers.

Found something that would help (@ 13:15). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4We7wbtwbI

[Oka]

. . . . Highly recommend a cam locking tool, . . . .

1. Now, am stuck. Below is what I have in my engine.
How do I use the tool to lock both the cam and the crank?
My crankshaft end looks different from all I've seen on line.
2. For the camshaft cap/plug, can't it be reused, if so,
is there a nicer method/trick of removing the existing cap?
Thanks.

[Xfingers]

As for question 2, my cap/plug was destroyed in the removal process. Not sure if there's a way to preserve it for re-use. A new cap wasn't very expensive, maybe $5-10 from FCP.

Question 1. I think a separate tool was provided in my kit to lock the crank. It had something to do with sticking a piece of steel in a slot in the engine behind the starter. It may have required removal of the starter but I decided to skip this step when replacing my blown cam seal. Instead I marked my crank with a black felt tip pen before removing the timing belt to make sure the crank was aligned when I put the new timing belt on. (If working on the starter, make sure you disconnect your battery.)

[Astro14]

As for question 2, my cap/plug was destroyed in the removal process. Not sure if there's a way to preserve it for re-use. A new cap wasn't very expensive, maybe $5-10 from FCP.

Question 1. I think a separate tool was provided in my kit to lock the crank. It had something to do with sticking a piece of steel in a slot in the engine behind the starter. It may have required removal of the starter but I decided to skip this step when replacing my blown cam seal. Instead I marked my crank with a black felt tip pen before removing the timing belt to make sure the crank was aligned when I put the new timing belt on. (If working on the starter, make sure you disconnect your battery.)

This.

I got a new cap, and I skipped locking the crank, because it all times correctly if the crank is aligned with the timing mark.

The crank locking part of the tool does require removing the starter. If the crank pulley was disturbed, that would be super useful but it isn’t really needed in your case.

[Oka]

As for question 2, my cap/plug was destroyed in the removal process. Not sure if there's a way to preserve it for re-use. A new cap wasn't very expensive, maybe $5-10 from FCP.

Question 1. I think a separate tool was provided in my kit to lock the crank. It had something to do with sticking a piece of steel in a slot in the engine behind the starter. It may have required removal of the starter but I decided to skip this step when replacing my blown cam seal. Instead I marked my crank with a black felt tip pen before removing the timing belt to make sure the crank was aligned when I put the new timing belt on. (If working on the starter, make sure you disconnect your battery.)

Looking closely at the crankshaft end, there is a bolt in the middle of the "cup" I removed the get that drum-like "cup" off.

I know the plug is not expensive, but living in Anchorage, Alaska, it may take a few days to get to me if ordered. I plan on finishing the whole job this weekend. Need to get the car ready for winter. We already had snow falls. The way I removed the plug, I can easily fix it; but I'll wait till Monday to call the dealer in town.

When I removed the cam plug, a good amount of oil oozed out. The bottom part of the plug is stained, that indicates the oil has bee sitting there for a long time.
When I removed the drum-like cup at the end of the crank end, just a little oil poured out, much less than the cam side.

[Oka]

As for question 2, my cap/plug was destroyed in the removal process. Not sure if there's a way to preserve it for re-use. A new cap wasn't very expensive, maybe $5-10 from FCP.

Question 1. I think a separate tool was provided in my kit to lock the crank. It had something to do with sticking a piece of steel in a slot in the engine behind the starter. It may have required removal of the starter but I decided to skip this step when replacing my blown cam seal. Instead I marked my crank with a black felt tip pen before removing the timing belt to make sure the crank was aligned when I put the new timing belt on. (If working on the starter, make sure you disconnect your battery.)

The way I removed the plug, I should be able to fit it and reuse it. Though, I plan on calling the dealer on Monday to see if they would have it. I plan on finishing the job this weekend. We already have snow fall and need to get the care ready for winter.

The locking tool I have would not require getting to the starter.

The first thing I did before starting such job was disconnect the battery. Thanks for the warning!!!

Thanks

[Oka]

I am going to replace the timing belt, water pump and the serpentine belt. For the tensioner, in the repair manual, I see the instructions as in the attached picture. I need some clarifications.

Currently on the car, my tensioner is like in "A"; has it been wrong all along?
Ambient temp in the garage is 50F, Engine is cold. Would any of these really mater?
When installing the new tensioner, it should be as in "B" before tightening the bolt, right?

Thanks.

[Astro14]

Yes, B is correct at 20C.

Yes, it matters.

Yes, yours has been wrong all along.

When you do the belt, then turn the engine over with a wrench at least 720 degrees. Check your timing marks and tension. Don’t be like the last bozo and get the tension wrong. You’re lucky he at least got the timing correct.

[Oka]

Yes, B is correct at 20C.

Yes, it matters.

Yes, yours has been wrong all along.

When you do the belt, then turn the engine over with a wrench at least 720 degrees. Check your timing marks and tension. Don’t be like the last bozo and get the tension wrong. You’re lucky he at least got the timing correct.

Thank you so much for the info!

[Oka]

The oil pressure release valve (OEM# 463963) in my oil sump, as a valve, when I cleaned and blew on it, on both directions, air went through. Looks like the valve is bad, being a valve. I had wanted to just put it back there and don't worry about it so it won't interrupt my work. Reluctantly, I will order it.