Massive Oil Leak

[Oka]

Thanks for all the info.

I have rings in the kits, a set would be for the cooler.

About the injectors.
It won’t be practical sending them out, cost wise (from Alaska).
If I were to get a new set, must it be OEM or from local store?

Thanks.

[FirstVolvo]

The oil cooler doesn't really need cleaning, but those weird, green o-rings must be replaced.

I would not try to attempt cleaning injectors yourself. You're unlikely to make a difference, and you can't replace the little screen filters, which have either deteriorated, or filled up with trapped debris. Send the injectors to this guy, he's great:

https://hurstinjectorservice.com/

I agree it would be best to send the injectors in to get cleaned and tested but if one doesn't have the time to send them off or the money you can replace the seals and the filters yourself. I just did this for another car I have with Bosch injectors and will do it next with the Volvo. There are kits that include the seals, filters and pintle caps. I got my kit from Motor West Performance off Ebay.
To replace the filter you can buy an inexpensive tool or use a sheet metal screw in a vise to get the filters out and then you just tap in the new ones. In the case of the Bosch injectors I worked on I needed a #12 (7/32) sheet metal screw. I screwed the sheet metal screw into the old filter until it had a good grip and then pulled on the injector to get the old filter out. You have to give a good tug on them but they come out without too much trouble.

[Oka]

Is #10 a Crush Washer?
I suspected I saw something when removing the banjo bolt, but it disappeared; must have fallen into the cracks. I have new ones in the kit, but just want to make sure one is there. The service manual called it "hose clamp" - undefined.

[Oka]

I agree it would be best to send the injectors in to get cleaned and tested but if one doesn't have the time to send them off or the money you can replace the seals and the filters yourself. I just did this for another car I have with Bosch injectors and will do it next with the Volvo. There are kits that include the seals, filters and pintle caps. I got my kit from Motor West Performance off Ebay.
To replace the filter you can buy an inexpensive tool or use a sheet metal screw in a vise to get the filters out and then you just tap in the new ones. In the case of the Bosch injectors I worked on I needed a #12 (7/32) sheet metal screw. I screwed the sheet metal screw into the old filter until it had a good grip and then pulled on the injector to get the old filter out. You have to give a good tug on them but they come out without too much trouble.

Thanks.

[Astro14]

Is #10 a Crush Washer?
I suspected I saw something when removing the banjo bolt, but it disappeared; must have fallen into the cracks. I have new ones in the kit, but just want to make sure one is there. The service manual called it "hose clamp" - undefined.

#10 is an Oetiker stainless steel clamp. A one use clamp that is crimped to clamp the hose.

You can use end cutting pliers to crimp it, but a dedicated set of pliers is much better.

You’ll find these all over your Volvo. I just bought an assortment of Oetiker clamps and a set of pliers from Amazon.

[Oka]

Hey folks. I have been searching to find instructions on how to really use this tool. I saw lots of instructions, but none show the proceedure to attach it. This is one part I don't want to mess up. If you have any link, please send my way.
Cheers.

[Oka]

#10 is an Oetiker stainless steel clamp. A one use clamp that is crimped to clamp the hose.

You can use end cutting pliers to crimp it, but a dedicated set of pliers is much better.

You’ll find these all over your Volvo. I just bought an assortment of Oetiker clamps and a set of pliers from Amazon.

Sorry, I was referring to "#10" (red arrow); I should have been more specific on which #10.
Looks like it's a typo in the repair manual. That should really be #14 instead, which should be a crush-washer. When pulling out the banjo bolt, I suspected I saw something fall, or it could have be gunked up dirt. I'll look around that area so see if I can find what it might be.

I guess the two #15 banjo bolts should each have two crush-washers.

[Oka]

Gunked oil trap return path to the oil sump.

I used a shop vac with a hose adapter that tightly fits the opening, sucked out a lot,
but the passage still has some gunk inside there. Trying not to push gunk dirt into the block.

1. Can I spray some brake cleaner to soften the gunk and blow it into the block.
With the cleaner, it would flow down the bottom of the block to the pan I have
underneath, since the oil pan is out.
2. Would using the cleaner leave dirt residue inside the block?
3. Or, what would be the better practice to clean up the path to the oil sump?

The inlet from the cylinder head is not clogged, it's clean enough.

Cheers.

[Astro14]

All banjo bolts require a sealing washer on both sides. Use new washers (though, in a pinch, you can anneal a copper washer and re-use it). Your kit should include enough washers, and they're a standard size, easy enough to replace.

The passage is just a passage - a path for gases to get from pan to block. Nothing fancy. Clean it out as best you can.

I would use a combination of chemistry (brake cleaner) and elbow grease (bronze brush) to clean the passage. You've got the pan off, so, hit the passage with some brake clean (I prefer the non-chlorinated kind, so much better for your lungs, it's mostly alcohol and heptane) then use a bronze or steel rifle brush. A .30 or bigger caliber should do well.

Spray, scrub, repeat.

Get it good and clean so you don't have to do this again while you own the car.

[Oka]

All banjo bolts require a sealing washer on both sides. Use new washers (though, in a pinch, you can anneal a copper washer and re-use it). Your kit should include enough washers, and they're a standard size, easy enough to replace.

The passage is just a passage - a path for gases to get from pan to block. Nothing fancy. Clean it out as best you can.

I would use a combination of chemistry (brake cleaner) and elbow grease (bronze brush) to clean the passage. You've got the pan off, so, hit the passage with some brake clean (I prefer the non-chlorinated kind, so much better for your lungs, it's mostly alcohol and heptane) then use a bronze or steel rifle brush. A .30 or bigger caliber should do well.

Spray, scrub, repeat.

Get it good and clean so you don't have to do this again while you own the car.

Awesome info.
The kit has four sealing washers. I used two for the breather line on the side of the block and the other two would be for the other banjo bolt.

Will head out to get me a better sized steel brush. Non-chlorinated cleaner always.

Thanks, and well appreciated.