2006 Suspension Project.. Looking for opinions on parts

[diggity]

Happy Saturday everyone!

Next project for the 2006 xc 70 will be front suspension. When doing engine mounts recently noticed the LCAs have some cracking... the process of replacing the engine mounts really cranks on LCAs .. so I'm not sure if that gave me a false flag.

I have been comparing iPD and FCP components. I have previously done the FCP quick struts on a earlier car (currently no available at FCP, but do come up) and loved how easy it was. IPD does not seem to offer similar option. Any thoughts on the stiffness v. stock ride, and the two companies? My gut tells me FCP stock ride with lifetime replacement, but performance and the thought of slowly working towards a tuned sleeper wagon also intrigues me..

Everything I can find on maintenance schedules, etc. seems to focus on the front suspension .. what should one lookout for with the rear?

TIA

Music while writing post: CCR, cotton fields. and beetles, elenor rigby / julia

[Astro14]

I rebuilt the rear suspension on the XC - replacing the springs required tweaking the angle of the upper mount to the rear shock. At 260,000 miles the car needed new rear springs.

Lesjofors springs worked just fine, as did Sachs struts, on the rear, along with new upper mounts. They are a challenge to get out, as you'll need to pull the arms down. The very large ratchet strap that Volvo recommends is a requirement for solo work. If you have a helper, a big pry bar would work to lever the suspension arms down sufficiently to get the strut out. You'll need a spring compressor.

For the front - I used IPD HD control arms. Excellent product. IPD ball joints. Also excellent. Do the spring seats (IPD HD or XC90 mounts), and if it's been more than about 30,000 miles since you did either inner or outer, then do the both inner and outer tie rod ends (Lemforder makes a good kit, with boots, for that, for a whole lot less than Volvo, check FCP Euro for latest price).

IPD sells a Sachs strut kit that has springs, struts, spring seats and strut bearings for about $300 each. This is an excellent value, and saves spring compressor time, which is always a bit risky.

I would also do the sway bar end links while you're in there. They are a frequent source of rattles.

You're going to need an alignment after any front end work, so I prefer to amortize that alignment over the entire set of front end parts, otherwise, you're adding an alignment at each step, which adds up very quickly.

Also, take a hard look at your front swaybar bushings. At 260,000 miles the front bar bushings on the XC were toast. Replacing them means replacing the bar, as they're vulcanized onto the bar itself. You can get a Volvo bar for about $200 (on line) or get the IPD sway bars for about $450 for a front/rear set. Replacing the front bar requires lowering the front subframe. This is muscle work as the bolts are on tight. Something like 90NM + 120 degrees of turn - don't use my numbers - but the point is: it takes some muscle to loosen, and then tighten the bolts as well as muscle to move the subframe down.

When you're done with the subframe, you'll need, yep, another alignment, so be certain that they're OK.

[FirstVolvo]

I rebuilt the rear suspension on the XC - replacing the springs required tweaking the angle of the upper mount to the rear shock. At 260,000 miles the car needed new rear springs.

Lesjofors springs worked just fine, as did Sachs struts, on the rear, along with new upper mounts. They are a challenge to get out, as you'll need to pull the arms down. The very large ratchet strap that Volvo recommends is a requirement for solo work. If you have a helper, a big pry bar would work to lever the suspension arms down sufficiently to get the strut out. You'll need a spring compressor.

For the front - I used IPD HD control arms. Excellent product. IPD ball joints. Also excellent. Do the spring seats (IPD HD or XC90 mounts), and if it's been more than about 30,000 miles since you did either inner or outer, then do the both inner and outer tie rod ends (Lemforder makes a good kit, with boots, for that, for a whole lot less than Volvo, check FCP Euro for latest price).

IPD sells a Sachs strut kit that has springs, struts, spring seats and strut bearings for about $300 each. This is an excellent value, and saves spring compressor time, which is always a bit risky.

I would also do the sway bar end links while you're in there. They are a frequent source of rattles.

You're going to need an alignment after any front end work, so I prefer to amortize that alignment over the entire set of front end parts, otherwise, you're adding an alignment at each step, which adds up very quickly.

Also, take a hard look at your front swaybar bushings. At 260,000 miles the front bar bushings on the XC were toast. Replacing them means replacing the bar, as they're vulcanized onto the bar itself. You can get a Volvo bar for about $200 (on line) or get the IPD sway bars for about $450 for a front/rear set. Replacing the front bar requires lowering the front subframe. This is muscle work as the bolts are on tight. Something like 90NM + 120 degrees of turn - don't use my numbers - but the point is: it takes some muscle to loosen, and then tighten the bolts as well as muscle to move the subframe down.

When you're done with the subframe, you'll need, yep, another alignment, so be certain that they're OK.

Here is a great deal of valuable information in one place. Thanks Astro14

[Brett San Diego]

If you are a DIY'er and you will keep your car for several years, my opinion is that you should not shop anywhere except FCPEuro. Unless you have a real need for parts that FCPEuro doesn't sell, why would you buy anywhere else when replacement is free. Unless you are rally racing your XC70, you don't need heavy duty suspension components. The bushings or shocks or joints in HD stuff may last a little bit longer, but who cares if replacement is free. I don't know why anyone wouldn't use and abuse FCPEuro's lifetime warranty.

On the rear suspension, the bushings are by and large pretty beefy. Replace suspension arms or links (or just the bushings) when the bushings fail. Replace springs and struts when it seems like a good idea or if visibly broken. If you bought from FCPEuro, you could replace the struts every 20,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. LOL

Brett

[diggity]

Thank you Astro and Brett for the input. Sorry it took me a bit to get back to ya.

Was actually hoping you'd chime in Astro! I installed an inline trans fluid filter with your inspiration.. Chose not to do the whole thermostat and separate intercooler upgrade you showcased, but loved the project nonetheless. Always feel like I learn from your responses archived here, thanks for all the sharing of knowledge you do.

I ended up ordering the (wrong) iPd end links, and now think I'm going to stick with FCP for everything as I've been doing with other recent projects.

What started as, "Just do the end links and see if that fixes the small rattle" has me exploring how to drop the sub-frame to do those bushings and maybe the swaybar ... damnit!

[vtl]

What started as, "Just do the end links and see if that fixes the small rattle" has me exploring how to drop the sub-frame to do those bushings and maybe the swaybar ... damnit!

Front swaybar you can upgrade to the one from XC90 with 2.5T engine.

Rear swaybar is 14 mm stock for the regular suspension, 19 mm for Nivomats, 20 (or 21?) for S60R and 21 (22?) for V70R. I have the rear from V70R, it was very stiff with the regular shocks, but driveable with the NIvomats that I've got later. Anyways, if your rear bar is 14 mm - upgrade it at least to 19 mm when time comes. The car will have lesser body roll. With V70R bar, corners will be your friends.

[diggity]

Front swaybar you can upgrade to the one from XC90 with 2.5T engine.

Rear swaybar is 14 mm stock for the regular suspension, 19 mm for Nivomats, 20 (or 21?) for S60R and 21 (22?) for V70R. I have the rear from V70R, it was very stiff with the regular shocks, but driveable with the NIvomats that I've got later. Anyways, if your rear bar is 14 mm - upgrade it at least to 19 mm when time comes. The car will have lesser body roll. With V70R bar, corners will be your friends.

Thanks for this info. Sounds like harvesting these off a car in a salvage lot would be .. precarious .. at best? Looking for an XC90 sway bar on ebay it doesn't seem to mention engine size.. any insight into the part # of the XC90 front sway bar that fits a P2XC70?

[vtl]

Thanks for this info. Sounds like harvesting these off a car in a salvage lot would be .. precarious .. at best? Looking for an XC90 sway bar on ebay it doesn't seem to mention engine size.. any insight into the part # of the XC90 front sway bar that fits a P2XC70?

Buy new ones, they are not very expensive, both under $200 at FCP. Junk yard cars have the glued in bushings worn out.

Volvo Suspension Stabilizer Bar Rear (V70R) - Genuine Volvo 8672168
Volvo Suspension Stabilizer Bar (XC90) - Genuine Volvo 30635778

[diggity]

New is another option! Thanks.

[diggity]

Disregard.