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Thread: Fluid leaking

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Virginia Beach
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    I wouldn’t sweat the fluid choice too much if the shift quality is OK. I’m picky about this car because of the reputation. The transmissions in the ‘01 and ‘02 models were known to fail early. But that was a valve body problem. I wrote about it here: https://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/...ment-Notes.pdf

    The resources section is hard to navigate to, lately, at least on my iPad. I think it’s a web hosting thing. Anyway.

    My ‘02 XC is at 268,000 miles on the original transmission and a rebuilt valve body from about 12 years ago when I wrote that how-to. Shifts great. The other cars in my sig all have that transmission that was know to be “trouble” and they’ve been flawless for me, once that valve body was sorted. In the ‘02 T5, there is a rebuilt body, and in the ‘01 T5, there is a new GM valve body bought on Amazon.

    I credit regular fluid changes for their longevity. I’ve also done an aftermarket cooler and filter. Which was a bit of “car craft” fun.

    I wrote about that mod here: https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showt...sh-From-Bottom

    The thread also talks about flushing the fluid, so you might find the discussion useful.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    colorado
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    23

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    Astro,
    I really value your opinion very much and enjoy reading your posts and replies given the wealth of knowledge you have and sharing it with the forum over the years!
    I am kind of picky myself when it comes to cars maintenance like anyone else. I have several Volvo's in the family from 2003 years to 2008 and the mileage range between 100 K to 185 K miles. I keep them well maintained especially the transmission. I have used Toyota TIV fluid on all cars at one time and did a recent flush for a 2006 XC90 using Valvoline Max Life. I like Valvoline being a full synthetic fluid and will be doing a flush this summer on two cars using Valvoline Import fluid. I am going to install an aftermarket cooler and Filter using your set up of which i have had it in my bookmark for a while!
    Thank you for providing the links, this really help!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    464

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Toyota T-IV is a good choice. I’ve used it for awhile. I get a discount for a case.

    I’ve also used AMSOIL and Valvoline import multi vehicle (not max life, the import) with success. The important thing is that the fluid meet JWS-3309, which is what this transmission needs.

    Frequent fluid changes help with longevity. Highly recommend them.
    By the way, how's your '32 Packard Sedan?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,975

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    It's out of a fifteen year storage (long story, involving divorce, move, and no place for the car) and in my shop.

    I'm ready to begin the survey of what it needs. I'll start with the engine itself, and a check of crank journal and bearing condition.

    I know the brakes, electrical, suspension, and steering were good. Wondering about the fuel system after storage, so I will drain the tank and send the pump out for a rebuild (rubber diaphragm, alcohol in fuel, 15 year sit, better to rebuild). Cooling system needs looked at - radiator in particular. It's original.

    I know that the number one rod bearing is bad. Bearings on that engine are babbitt metal, poured into the rod. Lots of work to replace the babbitt. Eight original Packard rods arrived last week from a parts guy in California, so regardless of what I find, I have a way forward.

    Hard to describe how good it feels to have the car back, out of storage, and to begin work. It was my father's car. I inherited it on his passing 30 years ago. Lots of childhood memories with him and the Packard.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    464

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    It's out of a fifteen year storage (long story, involving divorce, move, and no place for the car) and in my shop.

    I'm ready to begin the survey of what it needs. I'll start with the engine itself, and a check of crank journal and bearing condition.

    I know the brakes, electrical, suspension, and steering were good. Wondering about the fuel system after storage, so I will drain the tank and send the pump out for a rebuild (rubber diaphragm, alcohol in fuel, 15 year sit, better to rebuild). Cooling system needs looked at - radiator in particular. It's original.

    I know that the number one rod bearing is bad. Bearings on that engine are babbitt metal, poured into the rod. Lots of work to replace the babbitt. Eight original Packard rods arrived last week from a parts guy in California, so regardless of what I find, I have a way forward.

    Hard to describe how good it feels to have the car back, out of storage, and to begin work. It was my father's car. I inherited it on his passing 30 years ago. Lots of childhood memories with him and the Packard.
    The good thing is, you can work on it yourself. Good memories are good to preserve.

    As soon as the temps got a little warmer here in Anchorage, I started seeing folks with their classic vehicles out and about. It's always fun to visit some classic car shows in town.

    Cheers

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    464

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Buy this kit:

    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808...lvo-IPD-107945

    Then buy 14 quarts of fluid.

    Follow the directions on IPD’s site under that product.

    Repeat every 30,000-60,000 miles.
    Since I need to to the flush this weekend, I cannot order the kit I need; won't be here on time. I got the kit from the Volvo dealer. They only have the clip, green rings and only one yellow ring. I got the clip, two green rings and the only yellow ring they have. What should I do. I should use the old yellow ring from the car. I will order the kit for the other '01 XC70. I will check other parts dealers in town to see if they will have the yellow ring. I wonder why two types of rings?

    Thanks.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    3,975

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    No idea why there are two kinds of o-rings. I think the line had two yellow 0-rings, but it's been a couple years. The clip is green and if it's a few years old will be fine, but older than that and it will break when you squeeze it to release the line. I think perhaps IPD makes the kit for several model years, and so, it's cheaper to add a couple of o-rings rather than stock multiple kits...but that's a guess. All of my cars had the same o-rings, and I just don't see Volvo changing radiator/line design in a model...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    464

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    No idea why there are two kinds of o-rings. I think the line had two yellow 0-rings, but it's been a couple years. The clip is green and if it's a few years old will be fine, but older than that and it will break when you squeeze it to release the line. I think perhaps IPD makes the kit for several model years, and so, it's cheaper to add a couple of o-rings rather than stock multiple kits...but that's a guess. All of my cars had the same o-rings, and I just don't see Volvo changing radiator/line design in a model...
    Just curious, do I need two sets of the kit (the clip, one green ring and two yellow ring)? Parts stores online have the kit in a pair. Sure the ring should be changed if one is there already, but the clip. That's just in case the existing one breaks while removing it, right?
    Thanks

  9. #29
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    Feb 2010
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    Virginia Beach
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    There is one clip (green retaining thing) and two o-rings (yellow, as I recall) on each line.

    Only one line need be disconnected for the fluid exchange. The pump in the transmission sends the fluid through the lower line, up the radiator, and out the top line, that dumps back into the valve body cover.

    So, disconnect the lower line, and you'll get a dribble of fluid, but then you can slip a clear hose over it. 3/8", I think, whatever IPD used. It's about 10mm. Take a look at the o-rings, you'll get a good idea.

    Then, when you idle the car, the fluid will pump from lower hose through the clear line into your graduated waste container.

    Personally, I drain the transmission first and fill it up with fresh fluid. 3.5 quarts. You'll be feeding the pump with fresh fluid.

    Hook up the hose. Idle for 2 quarts. Stop. Top off 2 quarts. Repeat about 4 or 5 times.

    It takes a good 20 seconds, perhaps more, to get to 2 quarts, so, while idling, hop in and shift into reverse, drive, 1, 2, 3, etc. and get fresh fluid into the servos.

    When you see nice, clear red fluid, you're done. Install your new o-rings, put a fingertip of transmission fluid on them (don't insert o-rings dry) and reconnect the hose.

    Idle and set the transmission fluid level. It will be cool, since it's fresh fluid, so use the lower range on the dipstick.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    464

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    There is one clip (green retaining thing) and two o-rings (yellow, as I recall) on each line.

    Only one line need be disconnected for the fluid exchange. The pump in the transmission sends the fluid through the lower line, up the radiator, and out the top line, that dumps back into the valve body cover.

    So, disconnect the lower line, and you'll get a dribble of fluid, but then you can slip a clear hose over it. 3/8", I think, whatever IPD used. It's about 10mm. Take a look at the o-rings, you'll get a good idea.

    Then, when you idle the car, the fluid will pump from lower hose through the clear line into your graduated waste container.

    Personally, I drain the transmission first and fill it up with fresh fluid. 3.5 quarts. You'll be feeding the pump with fresh fluid.

    Hook up the hose. Idle for 2 quarts. Stop. Top off 2 quarts. Repeat about 4 or 5 times.

    It takes a good 20 seconds, perhaps more, to get to 2 quarts, so, while idling, hop in and shift into reverse, drive, 1, 2, 3, etc. and get fresh fluid into the servos.

    When you see nice, clear red fluid, you're done. Install your new o-rings, put a fingertip of transmission fluid on them (don't insert o-rings dry) and reconnect the hose.

    Idle and set the transmission fluid level. It will be cool, since it's fresh fluid, so use the lower range on the dipstick.
    Thanks a bunch for this nice write-up on flushing.

    My goal is to flush my "main" 01XC, then flush the other 01XC soon after. Tomorrow, Thursday, I'll call the Volvo dealer to see if they have a new supply of parts on the yellow ring; they only have one when I went to buy the rings and the clip. If not, I'll call around other parts store in town. If none of them have it, I'll reuse the old one, buy put in on the inside of the tube and the new ring on the outer.
    Last edited by Oka; 05-12-2021 at 11:42 PM.

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