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  1. #1
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    Mar 2015
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    Default About to Replace front CV joints (Passanger and Driver)...Which seals to replace?

    Hi everyone,

    I am planning on replacing the front axles as both sides have tears in them and sometimes vibrate, going up hills.
    I doubt the axles have ever been changed in the life of the car (245K) and I would like to determine which cv joint axle seals and or Angle Gear seals, I should replace.
    I will also be sure to drain the transmission fluid before the mechanic performs the work and have enough ATF (Type IV) fluid in hand for the drain and fill.
    Any thoughts?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    Default

    At that mileage, you might consider replacing the collar sleeve. Angle gear has to come out, so you might as well do the seals on it.

    You can get a kit. FCP Euro, or IPD, I canít remember which, sells a kit with the collar sleeve, angle gear seals and anaerobic sealant. Do the TSB and bevel the edges. Do not use RTV. It wonít work.

    I did this job a few years back. Wish I had done it earlier.

    Wrote about it in this thread:

    https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showt...d-modification
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
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  3. #3
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    Default

    [Hi Astro,

    Currently ( Knock on wood), my angle gear isn't leaking.
    I was thinking I would just need to replace two seals, one on the left and right side of the CV joint Axle...Is my assumption inaccurate?
    I believe the seal is called a "crown seal"?

    Thanks

    Derek

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Landenberg, PA
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    Default

    Are you referring to the Axle seal? Volvo/FCP calls it "Volvo Axle Dust Sealing Ring". That's the only seal I've seen while working on axles (I've replaced both front sides). It doesn't really hold fluid, it just keeps dirt away from the wheel bearing (I suspect).


    2005 XC70 - 50/35 Tint, Yakima Rack

  5. #5
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    Mar 2015
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by perkinscl View Post
    Are you referring to the Axle seal? Volvo/FCP calls it "Volvo Axle Dust Sealing Ring". That's the only seal I've seen while working on axles (I've replaced both front sides). It doesn't really hold fluid, it just keeps dirt away from the wheel bearing (I suspect).
    I believe I've already replaced the seal you're describing when I replaced the front wheel bearing. At the moment, I have a parts diagram with the transmission and angle gear, however, I am having trouble uploading the image to the forum. I will work on an alternative method to display the image.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Here are the seals.

    Thanks to all of those that helped.


    Volvo Drive Axle Seal
    Corteco logo- SKU: CTO-01034061B
    In Stock
    $3.99
    1
    $3.99
    image of Volvo Angle Gear Drive Axle Seal
    Volvo Angle Gear Drive Axle Seal
    Corteco logo- SKU: CTO-01034113B
    In Stock
    $7.81
    1
    $7.81
    image of Volvo Angle Gear Sealing Ring
    Volvo Angle Gear Sealing Ring
    Corteco logo- SKU: CTO-01035432B
    In Stock
    $5.95
    1
    $5.95
    image of Volvo Angle Gear Main Shaft O-Ring
    Volvo Angle Gear Main Shaft O-Ring
    Genuine volvo- SKU: VOL-977023
    In Stock
    $6.01
    1
    $6.01
    image of VW Volvo Automatic Transmission Output Shaft Seal
    VW Volvo Automatic Transmission Output Shaft Seal
    Corteco logo- SKU: CTO-19033885B
    In Stock
    $9.33
    1

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Default

    I canít tell, from those part numbers, what youíre doing.

    If youíre just doing the angle gear, cool, but you still need to get the anaerobic sealant. You should do the collar sleeve at the same time.

    The transmission seal on the driverís side isnít hard, but getting the shaft out certainly is.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  8. #8
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    Mar 2015
    Location
    Sammamish
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    I can’t tell, from those part numbers, what you’re doing.

    If you’re just doing the angle gear, cool, but you still need to get the anaerobic sealant. You should do the collar sleeve at the same time.

    The transmission seal on the driver’s side isn’t hard, but getting the shaft out certainly is.
    Pardon Astro. I'll be sure to add the RTV sealant.
    My original intent was to just replace my front CV joint axles ( Passanger and driver)...
    After looking at several parts diagrams, I figured it would be prudent to change the seals in the angle gear and transmission side of the CV shaft
    At the moment, the angle gear is dry and my AWD appears to work as intended...Do you think resealing the angle gear and also replacing the coupling is overkill for a simple CV axle replacement?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Iroll_ View Post
    Pardon Astro. I'll be sure to add the RTV sealant.
    My original intent was to just replace my front CV joint axles ( Passanger and driver)...
    After looking at several parts diagrams, I figured it would be prudent to change the seals in the angle gear and transmission side of the CV shaft
    At the moment, the angle gear is dry and my AWD appears to work as intended...Do you think resealing the angle gear and also replacing the coupling is overkill for a simple CV axle replacement?
    Iíll answer the question first - if the angle gear is dry, then, no itís not urgent. Mine was always ďdampĒ. So, I rebuilt it with new seals, chamfered the edge, etc. But Iím glad I did it and added the drain plug. So easy now to change that oil, that I almost laugh...

    I do recommend doing it, at your carís age, not for leaks, but to take a look at the collar sleeve. Read through my write up, youíll see how bad mine was. Worked OK, but rusty and worn.

    Donít use RTV!!! RTV sucks and will leak. You need an anaerobic sealant. Nothing like an RTV in function or chemistry. This anaerobic sealant is what Volvo used and specs on the angle gear, on the oil sump (oil pan) and cylinder head.

    Easy enough to change the driver side oil seal on the transmission, but they rarely leak.

    Heads up, though, that driver side axle is a PITA to break loose. Itís retained by an internal snap ring that is corroded and jammed by now. BFH and cold chisel are recommended. Axle poppers just donít work. Leverage doesnít work. Iíve done three. On one car, I gave up and took it to the dealer. Seriously.

    Passenger side is a piece of cake. Itíll slide right out. Itís retained by the bearing retainer bolted to the block. Easy.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

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