where the heck is the other end of the rear ABS sensor?

[drgian]

I have a 2002 XC 70 AWD, the rear bearings needed replacement so I figured while I was in there I'd replace the wheel speed sensors as I have already done in front to see if that makes that damn light go off. Also, they do work in snow and ice when the light is off, but not when on. It's my 20 year daughter's car so as you an imagine I want that ABS to work more than off and on.

So I bought two wheel bearings and 2 sensors from FCP Euro. The bearings are in, but the end of the sensor that doesn't go to the wheel seems to go up under the gas tank between the top of the gas tank and the cabin of the car! I read one report of a mechanic who go to it by taking seats out, but that seems like overkill even for volvo. I read other about a guy who was able to pull the connection out using duct tape and string and hook the new one up.

Neither of these seem ideal, so I'm open to any better suggestions.

Thanks!

drGian

[hoonk]

Are you getting ABS codes? Wheel sensor codes are very common - caused not by the wheel sensors - caused by bad connections in the control unit. Many companies allegedly "rebuild" those. Not sure if yours will require programming, definitely the later cars require that. I've always used xemodex, their remanufactured products have always worked the first time.

[drgian]

Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, I am getting ABS codes, can't remember which exactly but I'm headed out there now s I'll post later today with what codes I'm getting exactly.

But here's what's interesting. I have a few of these cars and after frying the ECU on my 2007, based on advice I got here, I sent one I got from eBay along with the old one to xModex on a Monday. On Friday I got the 'new' one back, programmed and it solved all the codes I was getting and my #2 cylinder not firing.

But that's a $400 repair so I figured I'd rule out the relatively cheap and easy to swap components first; I have Hall sensors go bad before, on my dryer for example. And actually the old one I pulled out seems pretty beat up, but I'm aware it's just a simple sensor so I'm not expecting this to be the fix.

anyway... I've already replaced the two in front (that was easy) and I have the back wheels and calipers off to replace the rear wheel bearings so it seemed natural to replace them. I can follow the lead wire up between the gas tank and the body of the car at which point I can't see or reach the connection. Which, based on the replacement part should be right about there. Was hoping someone could guide through that part.

Also, it's an intermittent failure, so it doubt it's the ECU itself, but I agree it could be a crusted up pin. So I will pull the ECU and clean the pins and coat them with that stuff you buy to lube and facilitate electric connections.

All that said, if anyone knows how replace this sensor, please give me shout. Thanks,

drGian