Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    513

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FirstVolvo View Post
    A whine from the transmission pump changes with engine speed and doesn't matter if in PNDR, it's more noticeable when the fluid is cold. Other symptoms of the clogged filter,
    The filter is internal and requires the transmission to be removed and partially dismantled to gain access to it.
    Current Junk: Couple of worthless rusty old clapped out Volvo bricks, XC70's 02, 04 & Countless P.O.S's, Rust buckets, Junk cars,( 50W Oily cesspool Sludge) Stolen and other assorted rubbish cars, 1928 Jed Clampett Tourer, (8 hole cast iron lump, original rust and decay, 40W Straight Bacon Grease),

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AKAMick View Post
    The filter is internal and requires the transmission to be removed and partially dismantled to gain access to it.
    Yes, unfortunately the filter isn't easily accessible but I did manage to clean it effectively before I decided to rebuild the transmission. I read about others drilling an access hole and poking holes in the clogged filter to get more miles out of the car, which I considered since I wasn't planning on rebuilding the transmission then thought I'd try to clean the filter in case I changed my mind about the rebuild. The cleaning went better than expected although I did decide to do the transmission rebuild after driving the car for some time. Doing the rebuild did give me the opportunity to open up the original filter and see how well the filter was cleaned (see photo).

    https://app.box.com/s/ahacprqhk1rkb6klp9nlzt7y0n6eevbb

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    2004 XC70
    Posts
    8

    Default

    I started the car and let it idle for about 20 minutes, failing to realize that I needed to give it some throttle while cold to hear any starvation. I'll try again. Did find that the upper engine mount is torn.

    The R&R of the transmission is possible. I have the tools, etc., but my knowledge of automatic internals is cursory at best.

    The linked document above of the internal filter is appreciated. Since I don't seem to be finding threads about rebuilds or diagrams of the transmission internals, suggestions about where to learn more would be great.

    Thanks.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    165

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vedipus View Post
    I started the car and let it idle for about 20 minutes, failing to realize that I needed to give it some throttle while cold to hear any starvation. I'll try again. Did find that the upper engine mount is torn.

    The R&R of the transmission is possible. I have the tools, etc., but my knowledge of automatic internals is cursory at best.

    The linked document above of the internal filter is appreciated. Since I don't seem to be finding threads about rebuilds or diagrams of the transmission internals, suggestions about where to learn more would be great.

    Thanks.
    If you're considering doing this all yourself I can provide notes and photos but I'm far from an expert. I can provide a list of tools you'll need but not likely have for the transmission removal and rebuild. Surprisingly I didn't need to buy many tools for the rebuild itself; just a spring compressor, snap ring pliers, a driver kit for bushings, bar clamps to compress some of the clutch pack springs and an ATSG manual. For the transmission removal you'll need a engine support bar and a transmission jack or engine hoist to raise and lower the transmission. The subframe needs to be removed and the transmission come out from below. I used a drill driven hand winch to raise and lower the transmission but this depends on the engine support bar used.

    It's a big job, took me 4 1/2 days to complete. 1 day to remove the transmission and begin disassembly, 2 1/2 days for the rebuild and another day to put back into the car. Cost $550 for the rebuild kit, $150 for rebuilt torque converter and $200-$300 for tools and misc items. I had already replaced the valve body 25K ago so that wasn't an expense for me and you should add another $500 for a new valve body if needed. You have to make a decision if the rest of the car is worth it and in my case I had done a lot recent work to my car so the rest of the car was in good shape. I've removed engines and transmission before but never rebuilt a transmission, it was time consuming and physically a lot of work but I have to say it was rewarding to have done this job not to mentioned nice to have my car back on the road again.

    I attached a few photos of the job and have many other photos but need to resize to post them.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails trans lift frame.jpg   worm drive winch.jpg   Bar clamps spring compression.jpg  

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •