Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 13 of 13
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    First, before anything, be certain that you’re checking the fluid properly. Warm, engine idling, dead level ground. Cycle through the gears. Dipstick should show fluid in the operating range. It’s 200cc +/- , so if you’re off, even a little, the transmission can act up.

    Next, change the fluid. Here’s the thinking: old fluid has sheared down in viscosity. This makes the transmission malfunction because the operating (line) pressure is low. Slow garage shifts (P-R-D) are classic low line pressure. If you’re lucky, new fluid will fix most of your issues. Let’s hope you’re lucky.

    If not, well, now we’re into more serious repairs. I’ve replaced the valve body in all three of my P2 cars. Had them rebuilt on two, got a new GM body on Amazon for $500 and adapted it to fit (S4 solenoid needs to be swapped, a couple wires lengthened). See the valve body replacement write up in the resources section I linked. It ain’t cheap. But it might save the transmission if the fluid doesn’t work.

    Here’s the thinking: if good fluid doesn’t allow for proper line pressure, then the valve body is worn internally, allowing fluid to leak past. The 2001 and 2002 valve bodies were known for SLT bore wear. The SLT solenoid controls line pressure. If it’s worn out, fluid leaks past instead of building the required pressure to operate the transmission correctly.

    That step might save it if fluid doesn’t. Depends on how much wear has happened. Each time the transmission “flares” (RPM goes up, then down during shift) there is a bit of extra wear on the bands for that gear. Like brake pads, they wear out eventually. No idea how worn yours is. But proper shifting greatly reduces wear. My wife’s XC has 260+ thousand miles on the original transmission- with a rebuilt valve body. It wasn’t as bad as yours, but it was starting to have similar issues at about 110,000.

    Beyond that, you’re looking at a rebuild.

    I get that money is tight, but if you can’t afford $150 in fluid, how are you going to manage the $3,500 transmission rebuild?
    Last edited by Astro14; 09-24-2020 at 12:59 PM.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Glsawyer View Post
    I have added dual usb charging ports to the rear of the center console. Fixed oil cap leak. Got all the lights working.
    What dual usb charging port did you add?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Aberdeen wa
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Just a random one I had laying around from an old couch. I wired in a second 12v plug behind the hvac and then pluged a usb port into that then pluged the cable from the dual port into that so now Its all put together and you dont see any of the extra.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •