I opened the overflow cap, jacked up the front left side of my 01XC and drained out 90oz/2.7L coolant. What went wrong? In the process, I pressed the upper hose a few times.
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I opened the overflow cap, jacked up the front left side of my 01XC and drained out 90oz/2.7L coolant. What went wrong? In the process, I pressed the upper hose a few times.
2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/164k Miles (Maroon)
2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/151k Miles (Brown)
2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD (Maroon)
2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111K Miles (Black)
2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 124K Miles(Green)
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1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)
Thanks you for your rely!
Here's really the deal. I had drained some coolant to replace the Thermostat and the Coolant Temperature Sensor. After which, I refilled the tank, but the coolant level did not go down, so I suspected there are air pockets, then, I raised the car to drain more coolant so as to refill it the "right" way. I really was not doing a flush, just needed to refill the coolant the recommended method. So, having the coolant remaining in the block, would it really matter refilling the coolant?
Sorry I thought you wanted to get more than 90oz out.
There may be an air pocket - drive the car for a few minutes and it will "burp", then top it up again.
While filling the coolant tank, I was pressing the upper hose. I drove the car around the block, by the time I got home, it had a warning to refill the tank. I did, drove it again, and refilled it again. Now, the tank level seem to be at the same level, not asking to refill the tank.
1. Now, pressing on the upper hose, it does not seem to contain any liquid. When pressed, air escape sound will be heard in the coolant tank. Pressing the upper hose does not feel liquidy.
2. Had the heater temperature set to the highest and the fan to the highest while driving.
3. The temperature pin is still way down on the left.
4. New Thermostat (90 degrees) and new Coolant Temperature Sensor.
Thanks.
2. Yep, the heater blew hot air.
3. Just curious, with VIDA hooked on, should I clear the current reading or "add" the new reading to the existing? In this and other situations, please educate me, when should I or not clear the existing code reading?
Thanks.
The temp reading in Vehicle communication/ECM parameters is live - so not sure i understand that question
So you Scan the car and have multiple codes - print that readout so you have a record of what was there. (you can always go to information/fault tracing/diagnostic trouble codes later to find possible solutions for ones you erased). Any really bad codes? - say in your case a temp sensor code - if so click that one and that brings up VIDA suggestions for a solution. Follow suggestions. Clear the codes, update to get a new scan. Compare the scans - did any come right back? Click the code, follow suggestions. Clear code, drive car, scan again - any codes come back? Repeat ---------
Some think the engine has to be off to scan - yes for a few things, but my techs and I always had the engines running if possible (keeps from having to deal with a battery charger or dead battery)
1. New Thermostat (89C/192F)
2. New Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
3. FAULT CODE:
ECM-2000 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor - Signal too low.
4. Please, educate me. Why should I get the ECM-2000 code if I have #1 & #25.
5. All the reading I did on the ECT, I did not come across #5.
6. I got these reading at the wire harness to the temperature sensor.
Seems all is fine at the harness, new thermostat and new temperature sensor.
Thanks!
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