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Thread: AC clutch shims

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Hellertown, PA USA
    Posts
    33

    Default AC clutch shims

    The AC cuts out when it is really hot out. I know the problem is a worn compressor clutch. Checked the net, everyone says it's an easy fix. Just peel back the splash guard and get to work. This doesn't look like the photos I've seen. Peeled back the rubber and there's part of the fender in the way. Can't get at the nut with a socket from the wheel well, there's a frame member in the way from the bottom and can't reach from the top. ARGH!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails clutch2.jpg  
    Greg
    Hellertown, PA USA

    Current ride: '04 XC70

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,891

    Default

    I went in from the top. Remove the belt, disconnect the battery, you might need to remove the PS pump, can’t remember, but unbolt the alternator, remove it, unbolt the compressor (two more bolts after the alternator is out) and move the compressor a couple inches towards the center. Then you’ve got enough room to work.

    You’ll need an AC compressor clutch tool.

    I bought this one:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Volvo sells a shim kit. Pretty cheap.

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...8aAlWcEALw_wcB
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Hellertown, PA USA
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Thanks for the tips. None of the stuff I saw online said anything about the larger fender well. I guess they were all photos of V70s and they said it's the same as an XC70. Well, I guess they have different fenders, with extensions for engine protection while turfing.

    Starting to think it's time for another vehicle as the problems are piling up. Besides this, I most likely have to replace the CEM. Need a full set of tires before February to pass the next inspection. Leaky power steering pump. 190k miles which means only another 50k for a replacement timing belt.
    Greg
    Hellertown, PA USA

    Current ride: '04 XC70

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,891

    Default

    I got a PS pump for about $65 from Erie Vovo.

    So...hit them up, get a new pump, do the install when you square away the AC compressor, as itíll be easy when youíve got the belt off and itíll make the access simpler.

    Tops, youíre going to be out $80 for new pump, o-ring, and a shim kit, plus a couple hours of your (free) labor.

    That gets you through summer.

    Youíll want new tires by October in PA anyway. Tires below 6/32Ē tread depth have reduced snow performance. Below 4/32Ē they have reduced rain performance. I rarely take tires to the legal limit because of that.

    The General Altimax RT43 cost less than $100 each, mounted and installed and do very well year round.

    That gets you through the winter.

    Donít worry about what might happen in 40,000 miles. By then, it could be totaled in a crash, have some other problem, or you move on. Cross that bridge when you get to it.

    Keeping this car is the most cost-effective thing you can do. And you can do it in small bites.

    If you want to rationalize a new car, understand that itís an emotional decision, not really a financial one.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #5

    Default

    I did the zip tie fix on my 2004 XC70 2 years ago and it has been working perfectly ever since. I went in through the wheel well and did move the splash guard. There is not a lot of room, and it is a pretty "fiddly" repair, but I have big hands and I was able to thread a zip tie in three places on the clutch plate. I just checked the zip ties recently and they are still as they were when I put them in. IIRC a hemostat was helpful. (one of the most useful tools in my arsenal, I have three different sizes!)
    Objects in closer are mirror than they appear.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Hellertown, PA USA
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    33

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    I got a PS pump for about $65 from Erie Vovo.
    I got a used power window mechanism from them when I redid the driver side door.

    Youíll want new tires by October in PA anyway....General Altimax RT43 cost less than $100 each
    Was wondering about a less costly tire. Been getting used Pirellis from www.bestusedtire.com, which is local.

    keeping this car is the most cost-effective thing you can do. And you can do it in small bites.
    Yeah, I really prefer hanging onto this one since a loan for a newer vehicle isn't in the cards. I might just bodge it and cut away part of the fender well to get at the compressor since I don't go turfing and the V70 doesn't have that extra metal :-)
    Greg
    Hellertown, PA USA

    Current ride: '04 XC70

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Virginia Beach
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    I wouldn't cut anything - I went in from the top, and the first time I did this, I was done in under three hours, which including grinding, by hand, using a diamond plate, the shims in order to get the desired thickness. On the second, and subsequent, jobs, it took about two hours and I spent $5 on the shim kit.

    No need for cutting.

    You will need a good dial caliper and feeler gauge set to get the compressor clutch gap set properly. You don't need a Mitutoyo or Starrett (though they are beautiful, heirloom tools), just a caliper that works well. Mine was a digital one I bought for woodworking a few years ago. Digital, and about $30.

    IIRC, you're looking for .020 - .016" gap in the clutch. Both of mine measured at about .035. So, I needed to remove .015 - .019". I measured the thickness of the shim stack, removed the .007" shim, and then swapped around until the stack was the right thickness, installed and checked the gap.

    I bought my compressor clutch tool on Amazon in July, 2014. Used it first on the XC, then on the 2002 T5. They've both been fine ever since. I did the 2001 T5 when I got it last year. Very slight tweak as that car has much lower miles.

    I prefer the shim thickness adjustment method over the breadclip method as it's a more proper, durable, repair.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    47

    Default

    Is this a job that needs to be done again down the road? If so, is it more desirable to hit the smaller end of the range (0.016)? I think I’m doing this on a friends 07 s40 soon. Oddly, my 05 XC70’s AC is still running phenomenally.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Virginia Beach
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    I think I did it on the XC at about 170,000 miles, so, yeah, I reckon that I'll have to do it again at about 340,000...

    It really depends on use, i.e. clutch wear, but since the AC compressor is engaged about 100% of the time, mileage is a good approximation.

    When I did it on the T5, it was at about 180,000 miles. Same thought - not really worried about the compressor clutch.

    The 2001 T5 had a slight tweak, I think, to get it from .022 to .016 since I had the alternator out and manifold off - I figured that I would tweak it to the lower side of spec and that way my son, who received the car as a gift, wouldn't have to do it for many, many years.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (258K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (208K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (92K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    499

    Default

    On my 04 i just removed the charge tube and fan housing giving me plenty of room to get at the compressor, measured the disengaged gap, then removed enough shims to give me the correct clearance, maybe 3 hours worth of work, already owned a compressor clutch tool but i could have used a strap wrench it was that easy to remove the clutch, as always disconnect the battery first of course,
    Current Junk: Couple of worthless rusty old clapped out Volvo bricks, XC70's 02, 04 & Countless P.O.S's, Rust buckets, Junk cars,( 50W Oily cesspool Sludge) Stolen and other assorted rubbish cars, 1928 Jed Clampett Tourer, (8 hole cast iron lump, original rust and decay, 40W Straight Bacon Grease),

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