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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Belgium
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    Hmm, perhaps this a EU option. Our XC70 had it, there was a button in the center console to
    disable it so you could leave a pet in the car while the car is locked and the alarm active.
    We also had an inclination sensor and glass break sensors in the boot. The interior motion sensor
    is the only one that can bes tested easily, so I tried that. If the car has this sensor and the horn
    of the car sounds if someone enters the car, a main part of the alarm function is still active while
    the siren module is removed.
    For some reason, I can't upload attachments now. The schematic drawing of the burglar alarm
    shows a CAN-bus connection between the UEM (Upper Control Module) and the SCM (Siren Control
    Module). The UEM als controls the sunroof. If a faulty siren module compromises the communication
    in this CAN-bus branche, it may also compromise the functioning of the UEM. That is the reason that
    disconnecting the siren module can (possibly) make the sunroof to work again.
    144 GL (1974)--->244 GL (1982)--->940 GLE 2.3i (1992)--->XC70 2.5T (2004)--->XC90 T5 (2018)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    81

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Willy View Post
    ...... That is the reason that
    disconnecting the siren module can (possibly) make the sunroof to work again.
    What I don't get is what is the difference between disconnecting (am assuming you mean unplugging) the siren module and an open fuse #38 as far as continuity of sunroof operation.

    Also, I don't understand how some siren modules appear to not have fried boards and are repairable by simply replacing the batteries. Does this mean that not all boards get fried? if so, what other reason would there be for the module to go bad?
    IF IT AIN'T BROKE - DON'T FIX IT!
    04 Volvo XC70 5LT 143k "Floatey" Ruby Red, Valvoline 0W40
    07 Honda Accord V6 120k Silver, Napa 5W20 Blend
    07 Honda Accord L4 130k Bronze, Napa 5W20 Blend

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Belgium
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    When the fuse of the siren module is out, only power to the module is interrupted, the CAN-bus wiring is still in place. According to the schematics, it is the same connector that connects the UEM with the SRM (Sunroof control Module) and the URM to the siren module (connecting from #21 at the UEM). If eg there is water in the siren module, the wiring of the CAN-bus branch to the UEM and the SRM will be shorted, making communication from the UEM to the sunroof (SRM) impossible. If, it this scenario, the siren module is disconnected, the short circuit of the CAN-bus branch (UEM SCM and UEM SRM) is removed and communication from the UEM to the SRM can be resumed. Unfortunately, I still can't upload attachments. If I could, the relation between a short circuit in the wiring of the siren module and the sunroof not working would become clear. I wonder if I am the only one that has trouble uploading attachments.
    144 GL (1974)--->244 GL (1982)--->940 GLE 2.3i (1992)--->XC70 2.5T (2004)--->XC90 T5 (2018)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    2,404

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    I have sent you a PM, perhaps I can send you schematics.
    144 GL (1974)--->244 GL (1982)--->940 GLE 2.3i (1992)--->XC70 2.5T (2004)--->XC90 T5 (2018)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    2,404

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    Quote Originally Posted by Willy View Post
    I have sent you a PM, perhaps I can send you schematics.
    there is something very wrong with my browser at the moment, I have probably answerd several times to your reply of my PM. However, the answers should all say about the same (I hope). Sorry for the confusion!
    144 GL (1974)--->244 GL (1982)--->940 GLE 2.3i (1992)--->XC70 2.5T (2004)--->XC90 T5 (2018)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Belgium
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    The drawing shwows how the UEM, the SRM and the SCM are connected. You can see that, should the CAN-bus be shorted in the SCM, this would also compromise communication to/from the SRM.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    144 GL (1974)--->244 GL (1982)--->940 GLE 2.3i (1992)--->XC70 2.5T (2004)--->XC90 T5 (2018)

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    81

    Default

    Another question. I see in several videos where ppl go thru removing the wheel and drilling out the rivets to remove the plastic inside the wheel well. Then they re-rivet to put it back. Has anyone ever used those push-in plastic trim/clip holders? My Hondas use those plastic clips and work fine.
    IF IT AIN'T BROKE - DON'T FIX IT!
    04 Volvo XC70 5LT 143k "Floatey" Ruby Red, Valvoline 0W40
    07 Honda Accord V6 120k Silver, Napa 5W20 Blend
    07 Honda Accord L4 130k Bronze, Napa 5W20 Blend

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    76

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    Personally I just used a rivet gun my dad let me borrow. I’m not sure how I’d feel about the plastic ones given I don’t have the plastic skid plate/air guide under my car.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    The plastic clips aren’t as strong. I just pop-riveted those liners back in. Pop rivets are a few pennies each.

    The plastic clips are more expensive. I’d be curious if they hold up as well as the pop rivets, or break under use.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
    Posts
    81

    Default

    Finally got around to checking the siren. It looks like it might be fried. one terminal on the transformer had burn marks. There did not seem to be any acid coming out of the battery. But I also noticed that 1 wire of the battery was disconnected. I got a battery from pololu that already had a connector on it. I don't know how to test this alarm if somebody can tell me I'd appreciate it I tried jumping the three prongs one after the other figuring that the battery will sound off the alarm but that did not work so maybe the board is really fried. Or I really also did not know if the alarm module has to be plugged into the car first in order to test it or powered through some kind of a car battery first. Anyway I just disconnected the alarm module for now and basically my sunroof is working again simply by disconnecting the alarm module. I took the alarm module and the metal housing out for now.
    IF IT AIN'T BROKE - DON'T FIX IT!
    04 Volvo XC70 5LT 143k "Floatey" Ruby Red, Valvoline 0W40
    07 Honda Accord V6 120k Silver, Napa 5W20 Blend
    07 Honda Accord L4 130k Bronze, Napa 5W20 Blend

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