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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    137

    Default What oil weight?

    2006 xc70- 100K...been using Mobil One...Its now approaching summer in NY....what viscosity M-1 do I use? The local stores have only 5-30, 10-30. There is also this HIGH Milage M-1. I want this machine to last...it's not using any oil at this point...changing oil/filter every 3-5K.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    443

    Default

    Mobil One European Car Formula 0W-40 is ideal for Northeast US.

    Suitable for our cars year round in virtually all climates.

    Used by many of us here.

    Usually available at Walmart.

    Also can be purchased through NAPA, O'Reilly, Pep Boys, Advance Auto Parts, etc., though you may have to order it if local store doesn't keep it in stock.
    '04 XC70, Ash Gold / Taupe, Premium, Touring, Tinted Rear Glass, Rear Skyddsplåt, Wing Profile Load Bars, USA Spec 11,
    StonGard Light Protection, Yokohama YK740 GTXs, Meyle HD Sway Bar Links, ipd HD TCV, subframe & top brace poly bushing inserts,
    TitaniumTim XC Cup-holder Coasters.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    74

    Default

    I was thinking of making the switch now that it’s getting warmer. Is there anything to watch out for when switching from the 5w-30 the first time or is it just a standard oil change with a different weight?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    443

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NTXC View Post
    I was thinking of making the switch now that it’s getting warmer. Is there anything to watch out for when switching from the 5w-30 the first time or is it just a standard oil change with a different weight?
    No difference in procedure. Nothing to watch out for. Just change normally.
    '04 XC70, Ash Gold / Taupe, Premium, Touring, Tinted Rear Glass, Rear Skyddsplåt, Wing Profile Load Bars, USA Spec 11,
    StonGard Light Protection, Yokohama YK740 GTXs, Meyle HD Sway Bar Links, ipd HD TCV, subframe & top brace poly bushing inserts,
    TitaniumTim XC Cup-holder Coasters.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,015

    Default

    Use whatever “weight” you like (seriously) but make certain that it’s designed for long drain interval. More important than viscosity is the additive package that supports long drain intervals. Like ACEA A3/B4, MB 229.5, BMW LL-01/04.

    Talked about this a while ago, here: https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/forum...7-XC70-(V70XC)

    I’ve used, with oil analysis to back it up, Mobil 1 0W40, Pennzoil Euro 5W30 and 5W40, AMSOIL signature series 0W30, Castrol 0W40. They all meet long drain specs.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (110K, Michelin AS3+, LiquiMoly 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (272K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (215K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (110K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    74

    Default

    I only use mobile 1 or gastrol to begin with, thanks for the tip!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Cape Cod, MA / Bethel, ME
    Posts
    4

    Default

    My 2003 XC70 has always used Shell Rotella 15x40 summer and 5w40 in the winter.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    233

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    More important than viscosity is the additive package that supports long drain intervals. Like ACEA A3/B4, MB 229.5, BMW LL-01/04.
    This!

    I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10w30 that meets the specs. It's the cheapest (was, until Kirkland motor oil was available locally, which meets specs and is a full synth, so I'll try that when I'm out of Mobil 1). Anyway, I change my oil every 12-13000 miles in my 2006 V7t, mostly because I have a turbo and don't want to go too long on the oil (cheap insurance to change it a little more frequently than needed).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,178

    Default

    I had two engine taken apart at 220k miles. One was unknown to me, but it probably was as neglected as the rest of the car (I got it as a donor for chassis swap). The measured cylinder bore wear was, say, X. The other engine was from my car that I've got at 80k miles, it only saw synthetic since then: Amsoil SS 5w30, 10w30, Red Line 5w40/10w40, etc. It died (burnt valve) at the same mileage as I took the donor, however its bore wear was X/2. Thanks to synthetic and proper OCI.

    The only thing I would advise to do is to switch the oil once you start seeing the engine consuming oil. From now on the lesser the oil has the additives the better it is for the longevity of exhaust valves. Pay attention to ZDDP and especially calcium content. Red Line is mad in calcium, my engine's combustion chambers were littered with scale-like deposits and eventually lead to the burnt valve. The rest of valves were pitted as well.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Pleasanton CA USA
    Posts
    484

    Default

    vti, what can you say about how to prevent a burnt exhaust valve? Do the "high mileage" engine oils give any protection?

    Is it your viewpoint that an engine that consumes minimal oil (< 1 quart / 7500 miles) at 100,000 mi. is enduring minimal wear? Do you know what is the rate of oil consumption coming off the factory floor?

    Is anyone set up to analyze spent oil for micro-metallic content, as a way to assess surface wear?
    2013 XC70 T6 Flamenco Red (hers)
    2015 XC70 T6 Seashell Metallic (his)
    past: 13 Volvos going back to '74 242 sedan

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